Steel Pans: Crafting The Caribbean Sound

Steel pans are made from recycled 55-gallon oil drums. The process of making them involves sinking the bottom of the oil drum into a smooth concave shape, eliminating the natural vibration of the playing surface. The placement of notes on the pan is then marked, and the area between the notes is flattened using special tuning hammers, forcing the notes to protrude and take on a convex shape. Indentations are then placed on the note outlines in a process known as grooving, which creates an area of 'dead' metal around each note and prevents sound from bleeding into another. The skirt (side) of the drum is then measured and cut, and the metal is tempered by heating and cooling the drum. The drum is then tuned, and a protective finish is added to prevent rusting. Finally, the pan is fine-tuned and blended with the other pans in the steel band.

Choose the right oil drum

The first step in making a steel pan is to decide what type of steel pan you want to make. This will determine the number of 55-gallon oil drums you will need. The type of oil drum you choose will also depend on the pitch of the steel pan you want to make. Lower-pitched steel pans, like those from the guitar pan to the bass steel pan, will require thicker oil drums. However, oil drums that are 1.2mm thick will work for most steel pans. The steel of the oil drums should be mild but not galvanised, as this may produce steel pans of inferior tonal quality.

It is important to choose oil drums that are not too damaged. Do not use oil drums that contain sharp dents or deep rust. Sharp dents will make it difficult to produce a steel pan with a smooth playing surface, and deep rusting may result in the oil drums bursting during the "sinking" process.

The next step is to find the centre of the oil drum. To do this, measure 26.6 cm from several points on the rim of the oil drum towards the centre. Use a compass and marker to draw two concentric circles with radii of 10cm and 20cm from the centre. You have now divided the oil drum radius into three parts, which will make it easier to monitor the shape of the oil drum while you are sinking it.

Sinking the oil drum

The bottom of the oil drum (the end without the opening) is hammered into a smooth concave shape, where the notes will be placed later. This process, known as sinking, eliminates the natural vibration of the playing surface, which would otherwise interfere with the clarity of the notes.

Marking the notes

The individual notes need to be marked on the playing surface so that each one can be pitched correctly. This can be done using a flexible ruler and a pen, along with a template to ensure that the placement of the notes is correct and consistent. Each pitch of the pan (tenor, baritone, etc.) has its own template.

Counter-sinking and grooving

The area between each note is carefully flattened using precision hammers, forcing the notes to protrude slightly as 'bulges', making them easier to hit when playing. This process is called counter-sinking. Using a nail punch, gentle indentations are then hammered around each note to create an outline. This process is called grooving, and it is thought to separate each note and prevent them from blending together.

Sinking the oil drum

To begin the sinking process, put on gloves and earmuffs for protection. Use a marker and a compass to find the centre of the oil drum. Measure 26.6 cm from several points on the rim of the drum towards the centre. With these measurements, you can draw two concentric circles with radii of 10 cm and 20 cm from the centre. This divides the drum's radius into three parts, making it easier to monitor the shape as you hammer.

Now, take a sledgehammer and start striking the drum along the outer circle, gradually working your way towards the centre in a spiral pattern. Once you reach the centre, repeat the process from the outer circle, moving slowly and steadily around the drum until you achieve the desired depth. This step requires a lot of hammering and can be physically demanding.

Before sinking, it is important to ensure that the oil drum is free of sharp dents and deep rust. Dents on the rim of the drum can adversely affect the outside notes, making it challenging to produce a smooth playing surface. Deep rust may cause the drum to burst during the sinking process, so it is crucial to select a drum in suitable condition.

The sinking process stretches and shapes the steel, forming the foundation for the musical notes that will be placed later. It is a crucial step in creating the unique sound and playability of the steel pan.

Marking the notes

To ensure the correct placement of the inner notes, templates are often used. The shapes and measurements for these templates can vary depending on the specific requirements of the pan. The templates are cut out and pasted onto a sturdy material, such as linoleum, before being cut out again to create stiff templates. These templates are then spread out on the pan to ensure optimal positioning and spacing before any marking is done. This step allows for any necessary adjustments to be made before finalising the layout.

The elliptical inner notes are typically oriented with their length axis pointing towards the centre. It is important to maintain a minimum distance of 1 cm between each inner note and its lower octave counterpart. This ensures that the octave intervals are easily identifiable while playing, and it also allows the notes to vibrate together. Additionally, a distance of at least 1.5 cm should be maintained between adjacent notes to ensure their independence.

When marking the outer notes, it is common to use a ribbon marked with the note lengths and pasted to the rim as a guide. This helps ensure accuracy and consistency in the placement of the notes. It is also important to consider the presence of any holes in the pan and adjust the positioning of the notes accordingly. If there are discrepancies between the first and last marks, slight adjustments can be made by going backwards and modifying the note positions. However, if the discrepancy is significant, the process may need to be redone.

Counter-sinking

The area between the note outlines is flattened using special tuning hammers. This process is known as counter-sinking. The flattening forces the notes to protrude slightly, giving them a convex shape.

To begin counter-sinking, mark the centre of the oil drum. To do this, measure 26.6 cm from several points on the rim of the drum towards the centre. Use a compass and marker to draw two concentric circles with radii of 10 cm and 20 cm from the centre. This will divide the drum radius into three parts, making it easier to monitor the shape of the drum while you are sinking.

Using a sledgehammer, strike the drum along the outer circle, working towards the centre using a spiral approach. When you reach the centre, work again from the outer circle, repeating the process and moving slowly around the drum until you get the required depth.

The depth to which the drum is sunk depends on the type of steel pan being made. For instance, lower-pitched steel pans like those from the guitar pan to the bass steel pan will require thicker oil drums.

Before sinking, you may have to hammer out any dents that may be on the rim of the drum, as they will adversely affect the outside notes.

Grooving

Indentations are then placed on the note outlines. This process is known as grooving. The indentations or grooves are created using a nail punch struck by a hammer. The grooves delineate the notes, leaving them with a convex shape.

Some steel pan tuners claim this process creates an area of 'dead' metal around each note, preventing the sound of one note from bleeding into another when the steel pan is being played. However, other pan tuners believe grooving is purely aesthetic.

Applying a protective finish

Once the steel pan has been tuned, it is time to apply a protective finish to prevent rusting and enhance its appearance. The most common types of protective finishes for steel are chrome plating, painting, and powder coating.

Chrome plating involves dipping the steel into hot zinc, creating a thick layer that protects it from corrosion. Zinc acts as a sacrificial anode, corroding instead of the underlying metal. This method is suitable for steel products exposed to UV rays or installed near saltwater. Chrome plating also gives the pan a nice finish and extends its life by providing rust protection.

Painting the steel pan is another option, and this can be done using various techniques such as zinc-rich painting or metalizing/zinc spraying. A polyurethane top coat, also known as a urethane finish or sealant, is a popular choice for corrosion prevention. It acts as an all-weather sealant, protecting the steel from natural elements like ultraviolet (UV) rays and snow. It also provides a pleasant and durable appearance to the finished metal.

Powder coating is a process where electrostatically charged powder is sprayed onto the steel or the steel is lowered into a bed of fluidized powder. The coated steel is then cured in an oven at high temperatures, resulting in a firm and durable finish. Powder coating is inexpensive, impact-resistant, and available in different colours, making it suitable for applications where aesthetics are important.

These protective finishes not only enhance the appearance of the steel pan but also provide essential protection against corrosion and other environmental factors, ensuring its longevity.

Frequently asked questions