Removing Oil Pan On Volvo Xc90: Step-By-Step Guide

Removing the oil pan from a Volvo XC90 can be a challenging task. It requires a range of tools and mechanical knowledge. The process involves draining the oil, removing the oil filter, oil dipstick tube, oil cooler, transmission mount, and power steering lines. Additionally, the engine may need to be jacked up to access certain bolts and create clearance for the oil pan to be removed. It is important to wear eye protection during this process as oil may drip during the removal of the oil pan.

Remove the oil dipstick tube

To remove the oil dipstick tube from a Volvo XC90, you will first need to remove the oil cap and the dipstick itself. Next, locate and remove the bolt retaining the dipstick tube.

The dipstick tube has an O-ring that may be stuck to the oil pan metal, so you may need to pull hard to remove it. If pulling from above does not work, try pushing from below the car instead.

When reinstalling the dipstick tube, use a new O-ring and slide it back into place with about 3 ounces of force.

Loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine

To loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine of your Volvo XC90, you will need to follow these steps:

Firstly, locate the engine mounts. There are typically three engine mounts in a Volvo XC90: the front, side, and rear mounts. The rear engine mount is located at the back of the engine, while the front and side mounts are situated closer to the front of the vehicle.

Next, you will need to loosen these engine mounts. Start by removing the bolts that secure the engine mounts in place. Use the appropriate-sized socket or wrench to loosen and remove these bolts. It is important to support the engine securely before removing these bolts to avoid damage or injury. You may need to use extensions, flex elbows, and/or flex ratchets to reach some of the bolts, especially for the rear mount. Remember to loosen all mounts when raising the engine/transmission.

Once the bolts are removed, you can proceed to jack up the engine. Place a jack with a 2x6 piece of wood under the oil pan and slowly jack up the engine. You may need to adjust the jack's position to access the different mounts, moving it closer to the passenger side for the side mount or towards the center/transmission for the front and rear mounts. Ensure that the jack is rated for at least 2 tons or more for safety. Additionally, consider using a jack stand with a piece of wood as a backup safety measure when raising the engine, especially when working on the rear mount.

As you jack up the engine, you may need to raise it higher to access certain mounts and bolts. For example, when removing the rear mount, you may need to raise the engine further to create enough space to remove the mount. Always work slowly and carefully when jacking up the engine to avoid any accidental damage or injury.

By following these steps, you should be able to successfully loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine of your Volvo XC90. Remember to work safely and refer to repair manuals or seek professional assistance if you are unsure about any part of the process.

Remove the transmission mount

To remove the transmission mount on a Volvo XC90, you will need to follow these steps:

Firstly, loosen the front wheel bolts while the car is still on the ground. Do not remove them. Next, remove the drive axle bolts behind the centre wheel cap on both front wheels. Now, lift the car onto jack stands, placing them behind the plate that supports the subframe, as this will need to be removed. Raise the car high enough to get the transmission out. Remove both front wheels.

Now, drain the transmission fluid by removing the plug at the bottom of the transmission. You will need two litres of manual transmission oil to refill it. Remove the brake pads and calipers, and suspend them with wire to the coil springs. Label the brake pads so you know which way round to put them back.

Next, remove the ball joint nut on both sides, using a counter hold. Disengage the control arm from the ball joint. You can use a chain, steel bar, and a block of wood for this. Remove the passenger-side axle, tapping it to push it in, and then gently pull it to disengage it from the spline. Remove the half shell holding the mid-bearing, and then pull the axle out. Now, remove the driver-side axle.

Disconnect the propeller shaft from the angle gear, marking how they connect so you can put them back correctly. Remove the angle gear, using a 10-inch wobble extension to reach the top bolt. The next bolt down requires an offset wrench. Remove the collar sleeve; if it has never been removed before, it may be glued to the transmission shaft, so you will need a hydraulic gear puller.

Now, remove the bar supporting the top engine mount, and then remove the air filter box and intake. Disconnect the MAF and vacuum lines, and remove the intake between the turbo and the MAF. Remove the heat shield over the exhaust manifold, and then disconnect the downpipe from the turbo, supporting the cat back with some boxes on the floor. Remove the over-the-engine pipe from the turbo.

Drain the cooling system, and, if you are removing the turbo, drain the engine oil. Remove the turbo by first removing the screws holding the coolant line and the banjo bolt for the oil line. Then, from below, remove the bracket holding the coolant lines, the screws for the lower coolant line, and the banjo bolt for the oil supply. There is a third banjo bolt above the bracket holding the bearing for the passenger drive axle; remove this and the attached oil line. Now, remove the bolts and nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold, and then remove the turbo from below.

Now, remove the shift cables from the top of the transmission. Pry the round one on the left with two flat wrenches, and for the square one on the right, pull the pin and pull up the cable. Disconnect the connector for the reverse sensor, and then remove the rest of the cables by pushing the white ring for the left and the black ring for the right, and then pulling the cable up.

Remove the bolt at the top of the rear engine mount. You can now remove the rear engine mount and its cover. Remove the lower transmission mount. Remove the bolt from below the subframe for the front engine mount, and then remove the bolt from above. Remove the two upper bolts for the passenger-side lower engine mount.

Remove the clamps holding the electric wires to the air box brackets, and then remove the left air box bracket by removing the two nuts at the bottom. Remove the right air box bracket by removing the two bolts at the front, and then the third bolt at the back to remove the aluminium bracket. Remove the grounding cable from the engine.

Now, remove the two bolts attaching the wire harness to the subframe, and then remove the starter by removing the two bolts that were also used for the left air box bracket. Disconnect the electric cable at the back, and then push the starter out by tapping a small rod through the third hole. Remove the bracket behind the transmission and above the rear engine mount, and then remove the bracket at the back of the transmission, holding the connectors for the O2 sensors.

Remove the bolt at the bottom of the rear engine mount. Remove the four main bolts attaching the subframe and lower it a bit. Remove the bracket holding the downpipe from the subframe. Lower the engine and transmission with your support device. Place a transmission jack under the transmission and secure it. Remove the bolts attaching the transmission to the engine, and separate the transmission from the engine enough to clear the driveshaft. Lower the transmission jack and roll it out of the way.

Remove the power steering line retainer

To remove the power steering line retainer on a Volvo XC90, follow these steps:

Step 1: Jack up the car

Use a jack to raise the front end of your Volvo XC90. This will give you more space to work on the power steering lines.

Step 2: Empty the power steering reservoir

Use a turkey baster or similar tool to remove all the fluid from the power steering reservoir. This will prevent spilling fluid when you disconnect the lines.

Step 3: Cover the work area

Place plastic bags, towels, or sheets under the car to catch any leaking fluid. Power steering fluid can be messy and difficult to clean up, so it's important to protect the area.

Step 4: Remove the wheel arch inner cover and undercarriage cover

Remove the plastic nuts and torx screws securing the wheel arch inner cover. Then, starting from the front corner, push inwards to dislodge the cover from the inside edge of the arch.

Step 5: (Optional) Cut the return hose

If you're having trouble accessing the end of the return hose, you can slice through the rubber part of the hose near the RHS fog light to drain the fluid into a container.

Step 6: Release both ends of the return hose

Use a 3/8" plastic quick-connect tool to release both ends of the return hose. Make sure the tool is fully inserted before disconnecting the pipe. Be aware that any movement of the steering wheel beyond this point will result in fluid gushing out of the return hose fitting.

Step 7: Remove the rack pipe clamp and plastic clamp

There is a clamp that holds the two steering rack hoses near the pressure and return hoses. You can remove it by using an 8mm socket inserted from the inside of the clamp. First, pop the two hoses out of the plastic clamp, then remove the clamp assembly.

Step 8: Remove the return hose from the engine block

Loosen the two 10mm nuts holding the return hose to the engine block. Do not replace the return hose yet, as you will need the access to work on the pressure hose.

Now that the return line retainer has been removed, you can proceed to work on the pressure hose or other components as needed. Remember to work carefully and refer to a Volvo XC90 repair manual for detailed instructions on reassembly.

Remove the oil and filter

To remove the oil and filter from a Volvo XC90, you will need to drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Here is a step-by-step guide:

• Place the car on ramps and put rags or blankets under the car to catch any dripping oil.
• Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Allow the oil to drain overnight.
• Remove the oil dipstick tube by undoing the 12mm bolt on the intake manifold and pulling it out.
• Remove the four bolts holding the oil cooler to the oil pan using Torx screws. You may get up to a quart of extra oil from this. Secure the oil cooler to the rear of the car with zip ties.
• Remove the transmission mount by taking off the two nuts and bolts.
• Remove the power steering line retainer at the front and rear of the car. Zip tie the power steering line away from the pan.
• Jack up the engine by placing a jack under the oil pan and raising it with a piece of wood.
• Find the engine mount on the passenger side of the oil pan. Remove the bolts holding the mount in place.
• Wedge something between the engine mount and the sub-frame, such as a small pry bar or a piece of wood.
• Start removing the oil pan bolts. Wear eye protection as oil will start to dribble when the pan is loose. There are four longer bolts on the transmission side, three medium-sized ones around the oil filter, and two larger bolts that attach sideways.
• Remove all the bolts but do not try to remove the pan yet. You may need to jack up the engine a little more to create clearance for the pan to drop out.
• Remove the oil pan. Be careful as it can get caught on the oil pickup tube.
• Clean the oil pan using a degreaser and scrub sponge.

Now that the oil and filter have been removed, you can proceed to replace the oil pan gasket or perform other necessary repairs or maintenance.

Frequently asked questions