Cody Casey
The 1966-'67 Chevelle is a beloved car, but its trunk floor is often its rustiest part. This is due to crumbling trunk lid weather seals and desert monsoon rainstorms. Replacing the trunk floor pan is a major undertaking, requiring the complete removal of the body from the chassis. It is possible to install a one-piece trunk floor pan, but it is a tight fit and requires lifting the body off the chassis by 5 or 6 inches. Individual sections can also be installed, but this may add up to half the price of a one-piece. Before installing the trunk floor, it is important to test-fit it to the chassis and check the alignment of mounting holes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Car model | 1967 Chevelle |
| Part being replaced | Trunk floor pan |
| Tools/Parts used | Speedway's Sherman 705-76CT Restoration Center Trunk Floor, Auto Metal Direct (AMD) OE-style trunk floor |
| Time taken | 8-9 hours |
| Process | Measuring, cutting, drilling, welding, sanding, polishing |
| Challenges | Drop-down panels not lining up, need for bending and twisting, difficulty accessing spot welds |
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What You'll Learn
Removing the gas tank and rear bumper
To remove the gas tank from a 1967 Chevelle, first drain all the fuel from the tank. Place a floor jack with a piece of plywood on the jack cup under the centre of the tank. There are two straps holding the tank in place, with bolts at the front and rear of the straps. Remove the smaller rear bolts first, then disconnect your fuel lines and ground line.
To remove the rear bumper, start by removing the bolts holding the bumper brackets to the frame. You can use a wrench or an impact gun with impact sockets. If the bolts don't budge, try using a lot of penetrating oil over a period of time, or heat the nut with a propane torch.
If you're removing the rear bumper, it's recommended to also remove the gas tank first. In addition, you'll need to remove the rear valance and take out all the body bolts. Jack up the rear end of the car to make it easier to crawl under and disconnect the hoses and wiring.
When replacing the trunk floor pan, you'll need to lift the body off the chassis by 5 or 6 inches to slide the new piece in between the rails and the body.
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Test-fitting and trimming the patch panel
When test-fitting and trimming the patch panel, it is important to take your time and be careful. The better it fits, the quicker you will finish. The patch panel should be a little bigger than the area that was cut out, which is exactly what you want. You will need to scribe a line along the braces underneath to have a reference for the holes.
The ideal gap to butt weld the new metal in place is 1/16”-1/8”. This allows the spot welds to penetrate well and burn flush with less grinding. It is recommended to leave a ¼” extra to play with when cutting the metal. You should also drill your replacement panel along the braces and other structural engagement surfaces so you can plug weld them together.
When test-fitting, you may need to trim the flanges on the pan to 90 degrees as they might be too snug against the drop-offs. You may also need to trim any excess metal that sticks out and won't clear the new drop-off.
Before test-fitting, it is important to take body measurements to ensure a proper fit. Measure between the frame and the body at 3 different locations on both sides between the rear seat divider and back of the car. Measure above the spring pockets, at the rear cross member, and at a spot in between those two locations.
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Welding techniques
Welding in a new trunk pan is a meticulous process that requires patience and precision. Here are some welding techniques to consider when installing a trunk floor pan in a 1967 Chevelle:
Spot Welding:
Start by locating the factory seam and spot welds. Drill and cut these spot welds to separate the panels. When removing the welds, only cut as much as necessary to avoid creating larger holes that will be challenging to repair. Take measurements and carefully test fit the new trunk floor pan to ensure proper alignment.
Butt Welding:
Butt welding is the recommended technique for joining sheet metal. It involves placing the weld directly between the edges of the metal sheets. The ideal gap for butt welding is 1/16" to 1/8", allowing for better weld penetration and reducing the need for extensive grinding. Move from side to side and front to back to prevent warpage, and allow each weld area to cool before welding again.
Lap Welding:
Lap welds are easier to execute but may compromise the integrity of the weld. Lap welds can allow moisture to seep between the sheets, potentially leading to corrosion. However, some modern vehicles use lap welds from the factory, and there are weld-through primers available to address corrosion concerns.
Seam Placement:
When welding, consider placing the seam over one of the braces or supports. This provides a backing plate for the weld and hides the seam from view. Lining up the seam with the support makes the welding process easier and results in a neat finish.
Welding Sequence:
It is recommended to install the outside pieces first and the center piece last. This sequence makes it easier to weld the outer sections and provides a better overall finish.
Remember, taking your time and doing it right the first time is crucial to achieving a satisfactory result.
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Removing the body from the chassis
Firstly, ensure you have the necessary tools and equipment. This includes an engine hoist or cherry picker, chains, bolts, floor jacks, jack stands, and come-alongs. It is also recommended to have a helper to balance the body when it is hanging from the hoist or cherry picker.
Next, prepare the vehicle by removing certain components. This includes removing the front bumper, unbolting the master cylinder from the firewall, and disconnecting the clutch linkage. If you have original or factory-style replacement brake lines, you can leave them intact as they have enough flex to accommodate the process. However, it is important to monitor them for any signs of stress or bending during the procedure.
Now, you're ready to begin the process of separating the body and chassis. If using an engine hoist, attach it to the seat belt mounts, as this will allow you to lift the entire body at once. Alternatively, you can use chains and bolts. Cross two chains across the inside of the vehicle, running bolts through the chains and into the seat belt bolt holes.
Once the chains or hoist are securely attached, carefully lift the body. If using a cherry picker, extend it all the way out and then slowly lift the body. Ensure the body is balanced during this process to avoid any twisting or damage.
With the body lifted, you can now roll the picker or hoist to a safe location, such as the other half of your garage, and gently lower the body onto blocks or stands. Ensure the body is securely supported before releasing it from the hoist or picker.
By following these steps, you can successfully remove the body from the chassis of your 1967 Chevelle, allowing you to access the trunk floor and make the necessary repairs or replacements. Remember always to work with a helper and take your time to avoid any potential damage to the vehicle.
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Installing the drop-down panels
Installing drop-down panels in a 1967 Chevelle can be a challenging task, as evidenced by the experiences of some owners. The process involves cutting out the old trunk floor and welding in a new one-piece trunk pan, ensuring proper alignment and fit.
One crucial step is measuring and marking the areas to be cut. Some owners suggest measuring in about 3 inches from the mating flanges of the trunk floor, inner wheel houses, trunk drop-offs, and rear brace. This provides a guide for cutting out a significant portion of the old trunk floor. Drilling out the spot welds and separating the panels become easier with a larger opening.
When installing a one-piece trunk pan, it is important to ensure that the drop-down panels align correctly with the top, bottom, and side connecting points. This may involve careful bending and twisting to achieve the right fit. However, some owners have expressed frustration with the fit of the drop-down panels, indicating that they required significant adjustments.
Before beginning the installation, it is recommended to inspect the rear panel for rust damage, especially along the bottom. If rust is present, it must be addressed through appropriate methods, such as mediablasting and priming, to ensure a solid foundation for the new trunk pan.
It is worth noting that there are different approaches to restoring a rusted-out trunk floor. Some owners opt for the highest-quality parts and craftsmanship, while others focus on cost-effectiveness. Ordering a one-piece flooring kit can simplify the installation process and potentially reduce labour costs at the body shop. However, individual sections are also available for a more customised replacement.
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Frequently asked questions
There are different approaches to installing a trunk floor pan in a '67 Chevelle. One option is to use a one-piece flooring kit, which can save time and money in the long run. However, it may be difficult to fit a one-piece floor pan without removing the body from the frame, and it may require lifting the body off the chassis by 5 or 6 inches. Another option is to use a two-piece floor pan, which can be easier to install, but may not have the same look of originality.
Some of the tools and materials that may be needed to install a trunk floor pan in a '67 Chevelle include a MIG welder or a spot welder, a garden hose, tubing or angle iron to support the car, and a good weld-through, copper-rich primer to protect against rust.
One common challenge when installing a trunk floor pan in a '67 Chevelle is dealing with rust. It is important to inspect the surrounding metal for rust damage and apply any necessary cleaning or coating to ensure solidity. Another challenge may be accessing all of the spot welds; one suggestion is to cut a big hole in the trunk to make this easier.
