Changing the oil pan gasket on an E30 BMW is a relatively straightforward process, but it can be time-consuming and messy. Here are the steps you can follow to get the job done:
Prepare your tools and materials: You will need an engine hoist, jacks, a new oil pan gasket, oil, an oil filter, and some other basic tools like wrenches and sockets.
Drain the oil: Remove the oil level sender and the ground strap from the front-top of the oil pan. Disconnect the battery and remove the hood. Remove the fan shroud from the radiator and jack up the car.
Access the oil pan: Depending on your specific E30 model, you may need to remove or loosen various parts such as the motor mounts, transmission mounts, fan shroud, and wheel-well-liner pieces to access the oil pan bolts easily.
Remove the oil pan: There are typically around 20-25 bolts holding the oil pan in place. Remove these bolts and carefully lower the oil pan, tapping it lightly with a mallet if necessary to break the seal. Be careful not to bend or crack the oil pan during this process.
Clean and inspect: Once the oil pan is removed, clean all the gasket residue and sludge from the sealing surfaces using a solvent. Also, clean the inside of the oil pan and inspect it for cracks.
Install the new gasket: Place the new gasket on the oil pan, ensuring it is positioned correctly. You may need to use a small amount of gasket sealant to hold it in place.
Reinstall the oil pan: Torque the oil pan bolts to the specified tightness in a spiral pattern, starting from the center. Reattach any accessory brackets you removed earlier.
Refill and inspect: Refill the crankcase with new oil and start the engine. Inspect for any leaks around the oil pan gasket to ensure a proper seal.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Project Time | 6 hours |
Tools | Engine puller, floor jack, jack stands, 32mm wrench, 16mm socket, 12mm socket, ratchet, set of inverted torx bits, 10mm open-ended box wrench, 13mm open-ended box wrench, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, short extension, U-joint, long extension, brake cleaner/PB Blaster, 17mm open-ended box wrench, power drill w/ socket attachment bit, sharp putty knife/gasket scraper, several assorted size metric ratchets, sockets and torx sockets, several assorted size metric wrenches, ratchet swivel/u-joint, assortment of short and long ratchet extensions, engine lift, floor jack, 2 jack stands, engine support bar |
Parts Required | Oil pan gasket, entire oil pan gasket kit (as needed), fresh crush washer, new oil pan, new oil pan gasket, new drain plug (optional), new oil filter, 5 quarts of oil, new oil level sender, new grounding strap, engine mounts |
Performance Gain | No more oil leaks from the oil pan |
Complementary Modification | Replace oil and oil filter, replace engine mounts |
What You'll Learn
- Detect oil leaks by cleaning the engine with a degreaser and following the trail to its highest point
- Obtain the appropriate oil pan gasket replacement
- Remove the splash shield and bellhousing cover while the oil is draining
- Loosen the nuts on the motor mounts so they can be lifted but not removed
- Remove the oil pan bolts
Detect oil leaks by cleaning the engine with a degreaser and following the trail to its highest point
To detect an oil leak, first, clean the engine with a degreaser. Then, run the car and see if you can spot a leak. If there is no evident leak, then it may be small enough that it may take days of driving to become evident.
If you are still unable to detect the leak, you can try using a leak detection powder or a UV leak detector kit. The powder will adhere to and coat the metal, producing a white haze. Then, drive the vehicle until the oil leaks. The hope here is that the leak will take a single large, reasonably direct downward path (even if there are some streaks from airflow). If it does, it will show up as a primary "stream" down the engine.
If you are still unable to detect the leak, you can try using a UV leak detector kit. These kits come with fluorescent dyes that are formulated for specific engine fluids and a UV light. When the oil starts coming out of the source of the leak, the fluorescent dye will leak out with it. Shining the UV light around the engine bay will make the dye glow, usually a fluorescent green that is easy to spot.
Once you have detected the oil leak, you can begin the process of changing the E30 oil pan gasket. This process involves jacking up the car, removing the front two road wheels, and removing the lower suspension components. You will also need to remove the motor mounts, as the engine will need support to keep it from falling out of the car. With the front suspension removed, you should have clear access to the bottom engine sump. Remove the small screws that hold the engine sump to the bottom of the engine case and slide the pan off. Clean the mating surface of the engine block with a gasket remover, then place the new gasket on the sump and reinstall it.
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Obtain the appropriate oil pan gasket replacement
To obtain the appropriate oil pan gasket replacement for your E30, you can either purchase the parts from a BMW dealership or an independent auto shop. The cost of the gasket itself is relatively inexpensive, ranging from $10 to $60 at AutoZone, for example. However, the labor costs for this repair can be quite high, as it is a time-consuming and intricate process.
If you choose to acquire the parts from a BMW dealership, you can expect to pay a premium price. For instance, the gasket for a BMW 328i starts at $40. If you own an older BMW model, such as the BMW M3, which is no longer in production, the price of the gasket can skyrocket to $876. This significant price difference is due to the premium nature of BMW as a brand.
On the other hand, independent auto shops that specialize in repairing BMWs and other German automobiles may offer more competitive prices for the parts. However, they may also recommend additional services, such as alignment work, which can increase the overall cost of the repair.
When purchasing the oil pan gasket replacement, it is essential to consider the make and model of your E30, as well as the specific engine type. This information will ensure that you obtain the correct gasket for your vehicle.
Additionally, it is worth noting that some mechanics and DIY guides suggest using a sealant or paper gasket instead of a cork gasket for a more effective and long-lasting repair.
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Remove the splash shield and bellhousing cover while the oil is draining
To remove the splash shield and bellhousing cover while the oil is draining, you will need to gather the right tools and safety equipment. This includes jack stands, a jack, and a new oil pan gasket. You will also need to drain the oil from the car.
Once the oil has been drained, you can begin to remove the splash shield and bellhousing cover. First, locate the four 13mm hex bolts and four inverted torx bolts that secure the bellhousing cover in place. Remove these bolts and set them aside. Now, you can carefully remove the bellhousing cover. It is important to note that there are several sensitive components located near the bellhousing, so proceed with caution.
With the bellhousing cover removed, you can now access the oil pan bolts. There are approximately 20 10mm bolts located around the perimeter of the oil pan. Use a 10mm open-ended box wrench or a combination of extensions and U-joints to remove these bolts. Again, be cautious when working around the oil pump and other sensitive components.
After removing the oil pan bolts, you can now remove the oil pump bolts. There are three 13mm bolts securing the oil pump in place. Remove these bolts and carefully wiggle the oil pump until it falls into the oil pan. At this point, you can also remove the oil dipstick, oil pump drive shaft, oil level sensor, and ground strap.
Now, you can loosen the motor mounts. Loosen the four motor mount nuts until there is barely any threading left. This will allow you to jack up and down the engine without worrying about alignment issues.
Finally, you can remove the oil pan. Place your jack under the AC or AC bracket and slowly jack up the engine until you can pull out the oil pan. Be careful not to damage the oil pressure sensor during this step.
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Loosen the nuts on the motor mounts so they can be lifted but not removed
To loosen the nuts on the motor mounts so they can be lifted but not removed, you will need to follow these steps:
First, gather your tools and safety equipment. You will need a jack, jack stands, wrenches, sockets, and possibly a ratchet and extensions. Safety glasses and gloves are also recommended to protect your eyes and hands.
Next, raise the car and place it on jack stands. This will give you access to the motor mounts and allow you to work safely underneath the vehicle. Make sure the car is securely supported before proceeding.
Locate the motor mounts and the nuts that need to be loosened. Place your jack under the motor mounts and slowly raise the engine until the mounts are slightly lifted but not removed. This will help you access the nuts and provide the necessary clearance to work on the oil pan gasket.
Now, loosen the nuts on the motor mounts. Use the appropriate-sized wrench or socket to loosen the nuts, turning them counterclockwise. Do not remove the nuts completely; just loosen them enough so that the motor mounts can be lifted but still remain attached.
Once the nuts are loosened, you can make final adjustments to the jack height as needed. Ensure the engine is securely supported and there is enough clearance to work on the oil pan gasket. Remember to tighten the jack handle or use jack stands to support the load before proceeding.
With the motor mounts loosened, you can now focus on the oil pan gasket replacement. Follow the remaining steps in the oil pan gasket replacement procedure, such as removing the oil pan bolts, lowering the oil pan, cleaning the surfaces, and installing the new gasket.
Remember to work slowly and carefully to avoid damage to the vehicle or injury to yourself. Always refer to a trusted repair manual or seek advice from a qualified mechanic if you are unsure about any steps in the process.
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Remove the oil pan bolts
To remove the oil pan bolts, you will need a set of inverted torx bits, a 10mm open-ended box wrench, a 13mm open-ended box wrench, a 10mm socket, a 13mm socket, and a ratchet. You may also need a U-joint and a long extension.
The first step is to drain the oil from the car. Then, remove the oil level sender and the ground strap from the front-top of the oil pan. You may also want to disconnect the battery.
Next, you will need to remove the transmission shield. This is held in place by four 13mm hex bolts and four inverted torx bits from behind.
Now, you can begin to remove the oil pan bolts. There are around 20 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the oil pan. The bolts above the sub-frame and steering rack will be the most difficult to remove. You will need to use a 10mm open-ended box wrench or a combination of extensions and U-joints to access these bolts.
Once all the bolts are removed, the oil pan should be able to be wiggled free.
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Frequently asked questions
No, you can loosen the nuts on the motor mounts and jack up the engine to gain access to the oil pan.
You will need a jack, jack stands, wrenches, and sockets. A full list of tools can be found in the "Tools Needed" section of the relevant articles.
You should replace the oil, oil filter, and engine mounts. You should also clean the oil pan and check for any other issues while you are down there.
It should take around 1-3 hours to change the oil pan gasket.
You should use a paper gasket with Curil K2. Stay away from cork gaskets as they tend to swell and break down over time.