Replacing Oil Pan On A 6.0L Ford Diesel: Step-By-Step Guide

The oil pan in a Ford 6.0L Powerstroke engine is susceptible to rust and corrosion, which can lead to oil leaks. While it is a challenging task, it is possible to replace the oil pan without removing the engine. This involves lifting the engine slightly, removing the oil pan bolts, and sliding the pan backward to access and remove the oil pickup tube. Before beginning this process, it is important to drain the oil from the engine and remove the nuts securing the engine mounts. Additionally, the radiator hold-down brackets and transmission cooler lines may need to be detached for improved access. It is recommended to replace the oil pan gaskets and bolts during this procedure to ensure a secure and leak-free installation.

The engine doesn't need to be removed, just undo the mounts and lift it slightly

To change the oil pan on a 6.0-liter Ford diesel engine, you don't need to remove the engine entirely. This can be done by simply undoing the engine mounts and lifting the engine slightly. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

Step 1: Drain the Oil

Begin by draining the oil from the engine. Place an appropriate drain pan underneath to catch the oil, then remove the oil pan drain plug.

Step 2: Undo the Engine Mounts

Locate and remove the nuts securing the engine mounts. For the 6.0L Ford, there are two nuts per side, attached to the front crossmember. Later models may have four nuts per side.

Step 3: Remove Transmission-Related Components

If your Ford has an automatic transmission, remove the horizontal bolt securing the transmission cooler lines above the oil pan. Also, remove the radiator hold-down brackets that are bolted to the radiator support.

Step 4: Lift the Engine Slightly

Using a floor jack and a piece of wood, slowly raise the front of the engine. You can lift it from the bottom of the harmonic balancer. Be careful not to lift it too high, as the turbo is vulnerable and may touch the cowl or firewall. Removing the steering linkage can give you better access during this step.

Step 5: Remove the Oil Pan Bolts

There are typically 22 bolts around the perimeter of the oil pan. These can be challenging to reach, especially those towards the center. Using universal joints, socket swivels, and ratchet extensions can make this task easier.

Step 6: Remove the Oil Pickup Tube

With the bolts removed, lower the oil pan slightly and remove the two bolts holding the oil pickup tube in place. Physically remove or lower the tube into the pan to create clearance for the pan's removal.

Step 7: Tilt and Slide the Oil Pan

Tilt the rear of the pan down to clear the transmission bell housing, then carefully slide it out. Be cautious, as the pan may be rusty and fragile.

Step 8: Clean and Replace Gaskets (Optional)

Now is a good opportunity to clean the area and replace the oil pan gaskets. There is an aluminum baffle (or upper pan) above the oil pan that may also need to be cleaned and reinstalled with new O-ring gaskets.

Step 9: Reinstall the New Oil Pan

Installation of the new oil pan is essentially the reverse of the removal process. Place the new oil pan under the engine, reinstall the oil pickup tube, and bolt the pan into position. Remember to use new O-ring gaskets and engine oil when reinstalling.

By following these steps, you can successfully change the oil pan on your 6.0-liter Ford diesel engine without the need to completely remove the engine.

Drain the oil from the engine

Park your Ford 6.0L Powerstroke on level ground and set the parking brake. Allow the engine to cool completely. Place a suitable drain pan (minimum 15-quart capacity) under the oil drain plug, which is located on the bottom of the oil pan. Remove the drain plug with a 19mm or 3/4" box-end wrench (or 6-point socket—do not use the open end of the wrench) and let the oil drain completely.

Next, locate and remove the nuts securing the engine mounts to the front crossmember (two per side, later years have four nuts per side). For automatic transmission models, remove the horizontal bolt securing the transmission cooler lines above the oil pan. After that, remove the radiator hold-down brackets that are bolted to the radiator support.

Using a floor jack and a piece of wood, slowly raise the front of the engine by lifting on the bottom of the harmonic balancer. Removing the steering linkage can further improve access to the balancer, as the clearance can be tight. Make sure to keep an eye on the top of the turbo while raising the engine, as it will begin to contact the firewall/cowl area.

Now, locate the oil filter housing on the top of the engine. It is on the passenger side of the fuel filter housing. Remove the oil filter cap using a 36mm socket. Pull the oil filter and cap straight up to remove them from the filter canister. Keep the filter assembly vertical as you do this to avoid damaging the plastic tube that slides into the filter element.

Remove the oil filter from the filter cap by pulling it away and snapping it loose with light to moderate pressure. Remove the old oil filter cap o-ring, then install the new one in its place. Install the new oil filter. Note that the oil filter clips into the oil filter housing. You will hear it snap into place if installed correctly.

Remove the nuts securing the engine mounts

To remove the nuts securing the engine mounts, first drain the oil from the engine. Position an appropriate drain pan underneath to catch the oil, then remove the oil pan drain plug. Next, locate the nuts securing the engine mounts to the front crossmember. There will be two per side, but later models have four nuts per side. Remove these nuts.

For trucks equipped with an automatic transmission, there will be a horizontal bolt securing the transmission cooler lines above the oil pan. Remove this bolt. You will also need to remove the radiator hold-down brackets that are bolted to the radiator support.

Now you can begin to raise the front of the engine. Place a floor jack with a piece of wood underneath the engine, lifting from the bottom of the harmonic balancer. Removing the steering linkage will improve access to the balancer, as the clearance can be tight. Make sure to keep an eye on the top of the turbo while raising the engine, as it will begin to contact the firewall/cowl area.

With the engine raised, you can now access and remove the nuts securing the engine mounts.

Remove the radiator hold-down brackets

To remove the radiator hold-down brackets as part of changing the oil pan on a 6.0-liter Ford Diesel, you will need to first identify the type of radiator you have. This is because the removal process can vary depending on the type of radiator and how it is attached.

For standard radiator covers, the process typically involves locating and unscrewing or unfastening the brackets that hold the cover in place. You may need a screwdriver or other appropriate tools to carefully remove the brackets.

If your radiator is a cabinet style, there may be additional fastenings or it may be set into the wall. In this case, you will need to check for any hidden screws or brackets within the cabinet before removing them.

For more complex built-in units, it is recommended to take the time to thoroughly assess how the radiator is attached. If you are unsure, it is best to consult a professional before proceeding. The process may involve removing screws, brackets, or any other fastenings before carefully lifting the radiator away from the wall.

In the context of removing the radiator hold-down brackets on a 6.0-liter Ford Diesel, the process is as follows:

First, ensure that the heating system is switched off and allow the radiator to cool down completely. This is important for safety reasons, as you do not want to come into contact with hot surfaces or fluids.

Next, identify the type of radiator valves you have. There are typically two valves: the thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) and either a manual valve or a lockshield valve. Turn the TRV to zero and use an adjustable spanner to turn the lockshield valve clockwise after removing the plastic cap.

Once the valves are turned off, open the bleed valve at the top of the radiator using a bleed key. This will help isolate the radiator from the rest of the system.

Now, place a large bowl or container underneath the radiator valve to catch any fluid. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut connecting the valve to the radiator. Water should start to flow out.

At this point, you can repeat the process for the other valve on the radiator. Once water is no longer draining, you can fully undo the nuts on both valves and disconnect them from the radiator.

With the radiator now completely disconnected from the system, you can carefully lift it off its brackets. Radiators can be heavy, so it is recommended to have another person assist you with this step.

By following these steps, you will have successfully removed the radiator hold-down brackets, allowing you to access and replace the oil pan on your 6.0-liter Ford Diesel. Remember to exercise caution and ensure the radiator is cool before beginning any work.

Remove the 22 bolts around the outside of the pan

To remove the 22 bolts around the outside of the pan, you will need to use a floor jack and a piece of wood to raise the front of the engine by lifting on the bottom of the harmonic balancer. An engine hoist can be used if you prefer to lift the engine from above. Make sure to watch the top of the turbo as you raise the engine, as the fit will be tight and it will begin to touch the firewall/cowl area.

The bolts towards the centre of the pan are the most difficult to reach, so it is beneficial to have an assortment of universal joints/socket swivels and ratchet extensions to perform the job. A large opening in the cross-member also provides additional access.

Frequently asked questions