Tillie Doyle
Connecting a cistern to a pan can be a challenging task, and even seasoned professionals can encounter problems. Before starting, it is important to ensure that the cistern and pan are compatible and match each other. The process involves first dismantling the pipework to the cistern and draining the water from both the cistern and the pan. The cistern can then be removed from the wall, and the float valve and flush mechanism can be reused in the new cistern if desired. The flush pipe should be connected to the base of the cistern and the back of the pan, and the cistern should be held in place to ensure everything connects easily. The pan can then be fixed in place using screws or silicone sealant, and the cistern can be attached to the wall. Finally, the water supply can be turned back on, and the toilet can be tested for leaks.
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What You'll Learn
Washers and their placement
Washers are an essential component in connecting a cistern to a pan, ensuring a secure and leak-proof seal between the two. The placement and type of washer used can vary depending on the specific toilet design and manufacturer's instructions. Here is a detailed guide to the washers and their placement during the installation process:
The first step is to identify the washers provided with your cistern and pan. Typically, there are two rubber washers supplied for each bolt: one flat washer and one conical washer. It is important to ensure that you have all the necessary washers and that they are in good condition, not damaged or worn out.
The conical washer is designed to be placed inside the cistern with the cone side facing down. Above the conical washer, you should place a hard washer. This combination helps create a secure seal and prevents leaks from the cistern.
The flat washer, on the other hand, is meant to be placed under the pan. Before tightening the nut that connects the cistern and pan, it is recommended to place a hard washer between the flat washer and the nut. This ensures an even distribution of pressure and helps prevent leaks from the connection.
In some cases, you may encounter a different type of washer, such as a black foam ring or a large double rubber washer, also known as a "doughnut." These washers are designed to fit around the thread and nut on the bottom of the cistern, creating a seal between the cistern and the pan. It is important to ensure that these washers fit properly and that the cistern and pan are aligned correctly to avoid any gaps that could cause leaks.
During the installation process, it is crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions and take your time to assemble the cistern and pan snugly without applying excessive pressure. Once the washers are in place, connect the water supply and test for leaks. If leaks persist, you may need to adjust the washers, apply silicone sealant, or consult a professional for further guidance.
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The conical washer goes inside the cistern
When connecting a cistern to a pan, the conical washer goes inside the cistern with the cone side facing down. This is paired with a hard washer above it. The conical washer is typically made of rubber and is used to create a seal between the cistern and the back nut. The type of washer used depends on the type of cistern. For a porcelain cistern, a conical seal is used, while for a thin plastic cistern, a flat washer is more suitable.
It is important to note that the conical washer should be assembled snugly, without any pressure, to prevent leaks. The cistern is then connected to the wall, with the flush pipe attached to the base of the cistern and the back of the pan. The cistern should be allowed to sit naturally against the wall. To ensure a secure connection, it is recommended to use silicone sealant between all surfaces and to mark and drill holes for fixings.
The conical washer plays a critical role in creating a watertight seal between the cistern and the back nut. By placing it inside the cistern, with the cone side down, it effectively prevents leaks and ensures the proper functioning of the toilet system. It is important to follow the specific instructions provided with the cistern and seek professional guidance if needed to ensure a proper installation.
In some cases, the conical washer may be paired with a flat washer, which is placed under the pan, along with a hard washer between it and the nut. This combination of washers helps to create a secure and leak-proof connection between the cistern and the pan. It is worth noting that the quality of the washers is important, as inferior washers may not provide an effective seal and could lead to potential leaks.
Overall, the placement of the conical washer inside the cistern is a critical step in connecting the cistern to the pan. It ensures a watertight seal and helps maintain the proper functioning of the toilet system. By following the recommended assembly instructions and utilizing appropriate materials, individuals can effectively prevent leaks and ensure the longevity of their toilet fixtures.
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Flat washer goes under the pan
When connecting a cistern to a pan, it is important to ensure that the correct washers are used and placed in the right order and place. The conical washer goes inside the cistern, with the cone side down, and a hard washer placed above it. The flat washer, which is typically made of rubber, goes under the pan, with another hard washer placed between it and the nut. This arrangement helps to create a secure seal and prevent leaks.
It is recommended to apply a small amount of sealant, such as LSX, between all the surfaces of the washers and connections. This helps to further enhance the seal and prevent any potential leaks. However, some sources suggest that sealants may not be necessary and can even be detrimental, as they can cause the washer to splay out when tightened. Therefore, it is important to use sealant sparingly and only when necessary.
When working with washers, it is crucial to ensure that they are the correct size and thickness. In some cases, the washers provided with the cistern and pan may not be the correct size, which can lead to leaks and instability. It may be necessary to purchase matching fittings or washers of the appropriate size to ensure a secure and proper fit.
To install the pan, it should be placed on a bed of silicone sealant. The screw sleeves provided should be pushed into the screw holes, and each screw should be rotated slowly to fix the pan in place and prevent cracking. If screws cannot be used, the sealant alone should be sufficient to hold the pan in place. It is important to allow adequate time for the sealant to cure before proceeding with the installation.
By following these steps and paying close attention to the placement and sealing of the flat washer under the pan, you can effectively connect the cistern to the pan and ensure a secure and leak-free installation.
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Re-routing the cistern feed and overflow
Before beginning any work on re-routing the cistern feed and overflow, it is crucial to turn off the cold water supply and drain the cistern completely. This ensures that you can work safely without any active water flow.
Once the water supply is shut off, you can start dismantling the pipework connected to the cistern. Loosen the large nuts that secure the flush pipe to the base of the cistern and the back of the pan using a plumber's wrench. If the nuts are corroded and refuse to loosen, you may need to cut the flush pipe with a hacksaw as close as possible to the connectors.
After detaching the flush pipe, focus on the cistern itself. Remove the fixing screws that connect the back of the cistern to the wall, or lift the cylinder off its support brackets. If you are replacing a high-level cistern with a low-level one, remember to remove the brackets from the wall. You may need to use a crowbar to lever them off if they are firmly attached.
Now, you have the option to reuse the float valve and flush mechanism in the new cistern setup. If you plan to do so, remove them carefully with a wrench. At this point, you can also address any issues with the float valve, such as replacing the washer or fixing a stuck valve, as these could be causing overflow problems.
With the old cistern and pipework removed, you can start re-routing the feed and overflow. If you are moving the WC or installing a new one in a different location, you will need to connect it to the main soil pipe. Ideally, position the new WC close to or directly above the existing soil pipe. If this is not feasible, you may need to use a macerator and small bore piping as an alternative solution.
Finally, with the new routing planned, you can assemble the new cistern and pan. Ensure that you follow the manufacturer's instructions and use the appropriate connectors for the flush pipe. Once the cistern and pan are in place, you can attach the cistern to the wall by pre-drilling holes and securing it with screws.
Remember, re-routing the cistern feed and overflow can be a challenging task, and it is always recommended to seek professional assistance if you are unsure about any part of the process.
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$20.31
Fixing the pan to the floor
When connecting a cistern to a pan, it is important to ensure that the pan is fixed securely to the floor. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to fix the pan to the floor:
First, mark the location of the pan by holding it in place along with the flush and soil pipes. If you are installing a new WC, it is ideal to place it close to or directly over the existing soil pipe. If this is not possible, you may need to use a macerator and small bore piping.
Next, sit the pan on a bed of silicone sealant. Silicone sealant is generally recommended for fixing the pan to the floor, as using cement or strong adhesives on a concrete floor can damage the pan and invalidate its warranty. Push the screw sleeves provided into the screw holes, and slowly rotate each screw 360 degrees in turn to fix the pan in place and prevent cracking. If you cannot use screws, you must rely on the sealant to hold the pan in place. In this case, leave the pan for 24 hours before fixing the cistern to ensure the sealant has bonded securely.
Once the pan is fixed in place, you can connect the flush pipe to the base of the cistern using the appropriate connector. Ensure that the cistern is straight using a spirit level, and mark the holes on the wall where the cistern will connect. Drill holes in the marked spots, then reposition the cistern and screw it into place.
Finally, turn on the water supply and test your toilet to ensure everything is working properly and there are no leaks.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a plumber's wrench, a hacksaw, a crowbar, a screwdriver, and a spanner. You may also need a drill, pilot drill, and an impact driver.
You will need a washer and nut for the connector, as well as a bead of silicone sealant. You may also need replacement screws and screw caps.
There is no recommended safety equipment for this type of job. However, you may wish to use knee pads as you may spend a lot of time sitting on the floor during the installation.
First, turn off the cold water supply and drain the cistern. Then, loosen the nuts connecting the flush pipe to the cistern and pan using a wrench. Remove the fixing screws connecting the cistern to the wall, or lift the cylinder off its support brackets. If you are replacing the cistern, you may want to reuse the float valve and flush mechanism. Remove the old pan by first emptying it of water. Next, connect the new flush pipe to the pan and cistern, and hold the cistern in place, lining up the flush pipe with the base of the cistern. Sit the pan on a bed of silicone sealant, then push the screw sleeves into the screw holes, giving each screw a 360 rotation in turn to fix the pan in place. If you cannot fix the pan to the floor with screws, you must rely on sealant to hold it in place. In this case, leave it 24 hours before fixing the cistern to ensure the pan has bonded securely. Pre-drill the wall for the cistern retaining screws, then reposition the toilet and screw the cistern into place. Install the flexi pipe by connecting it to the cold water supply and into the toilet inlet valve. Tighten the nuts with a spanner, then install the toilet lid and flush mechanism. Finally, turn the water supply back on and test your toilet to ensure everything is working and that there are no leaks.
If the fittings don't match, you will need a complete swap with a complete unit of the same batch.
