Marianne Martinez
Hemming pants is a useful skill to have, especially if you want to save money on tailoring or if you want to quickly alter the length of your pants at home. The process involves measuring the desired length, folding the hem, and then sewing or using an alternative method to secure the fold. This can be done by hand or with a sewing machine, depending on your preference and skill level. The type of pants and the desired look will also influence your approach, as certain fabrics and styles may require different techniques. In this guide, we will explore various methods for hemming pants, including sewing and non-sewing options, so you can find the one that best suits your needs.
Hemming Pants:
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Sewing Skills Required | Basic sewing skills are needed for hemming pants with a sewing machine. However, some methods like using fabric glue or hemming tape can be used without sewing skills. |
| Fabric Type | The process may vary depending on the fabric type. For delicate fabrics, a blind hem stitch is recommended for an invisible finish. Thick fabrics like denim can be topstitched. |
| Tools Needed | Sewing machine, iron, measuring tape or gauge, pins, scissors, fabric marking pencil or tailor's chalk, needle, thread. Alternatively, fabric glue, hemming tape, or liquid stitch can be used. |
| Preparation | Measure the desired length, turn the pants inside out, mark the trimming line, and cut off any excess fabric. |
| Hemming Process | Iron the folds, fold the hem, and sew using the chosen method. For a double-folded hem, repeat the process a second time. |
| Tips | Wear the shoes you would normally wear with the pants to get the correct length. Check the length in the mirror and ensure the hem is even all around. Ironing the folds before gluing or taping can result in a neater finish. |
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What You'll Learn
Measuring the desired length
When measuring the desired length of your pants, it is best to wear the shoes you would typically wear with them. This is because the ideal length of your pants depends on the type of shoes you wear with them. For example, dress pants or casual pants should never touch the floor, so a rule of thumb is to alter the pants so the back is about half an inch above the floor when the person is wearing shoes.
If you are hemming your own pants, stand on a stool or any other elevated surface and decide what length you want the new hem to be. Check the length in the mirror. You can also fold the pants to the outside (up) and pin the desired length down at the back of your leg (at the heel). Some people prefer to have their pants longer at the back, but if you want the hem to be even all the way around, make sure to remove a consistent width all the way around.
If you are measuring someone else's pants, have them wear the pants with the shoes they would normally wear. If possible, have them stand in front of a full-length mirror so they can check the length. Pin the desired length and then have the person take the pants off. Check to see if the amount to be hemmed is the same on both pant legs, making minor adjustments as needed.
Once you have determined the desired length, use a tape measure or hem gauge to measure the desired amount above the pinned fold line. For a one-inch hem, measure two inches above the fold line. If you are sewing a half-inch hem on jeans, measure one inch above the fold. Mark the trimming line with a fabric marking pencil or tailor's chalk on the inside of the pants.
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Using a sewing machine
Hemming pants with a sewing machine is a straightforward process and can be done by anyone with basic sewing skills. However, it is important to note that certain fabrics, such as silk or other thin and stretchy materials, may be more challenging to work with and are not recommended for beginners.
To begin, determine the desired length of the pants and mark this with pins or something non-permanent on both legs. If the pants already have a hem, use a seam ripper to remove the existing stitches. Next, fold the hem towards the right side of the pant leg, leaving approximately 1/8-1/4" of the hem sticking out at the top. Pin the hem in place all around the pant leg.
Select the appropriate stitch on your sewing machine. For a simple and visible hem, a straight stitch is recommended. Set the stitch length to medium, between 2.5 and 3. Position the presser foot and needle close to the top fold line of the hem, with the pants inside out. Sewing along the inside seam of the pants, start with a couple of stitches, then reverse stitch to secure them before continuing. Remove pins as you approach them with the needle.
For a more delicate fabric or a formal look, consider using a blind hem stitch. This technique is a bit more advanced and requires careful setting adjustments to avoid puckering. The blind hem stitch creates a few straight stitches followed by a zigzag stitch that grabs the folded-over part of the pant leg. This stitch is less visible from the outside.
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Hand sewing
Hemming pants by hand is a meticulous process that can give your pants an invisible stitch, resulting in a clean and subtle finish. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you achieve a sophisticated and durable hem:
Preparation:
Start by unpicking the existing hem with a quick un-pick. Then, turn your pants inside out and iron them flat to remove any creases and bumps. This will ensure an accurate hemline. Next, decide on the desired length of your new hem. It is recommended that you wear the shoes you plan to wear with the pants to get the most precise measurement. Mark this point with pins or chalk.
Stitching:
Now, it's time to start stitching. Cut your thread, ensuring you have enough length to go around the entire hem; it's better to have too much than too little. Thread your needle with a single layer of thread, choosing a colour that closely matches your pants. Tie a knot at the end of the thread and secure it to one of the inside leg seams by passing the needle through the seam and top hem fabric. Repeat this process a few times to make it extra secure.
Sewing Technique:
For right-handed people, work from right to left, and for left-handed people, work from left to right. Insert the needle into the folded hem about 2mm from the top and at a slight angle. Grab a thread or two from the third layer of fabric, directly behind where the needle came through. Pull the thread through, and you've completed your first stitch! Start the next stitch about 1cm away from the previous stitch, and remember to only grab one or two threads from the third layer of fabric. Continue stitching around the hem, maintaining uniformity in your stitches.
Finishing Touches:
Once you've stitched all the way around, secure the thread in the same way you started. Repeat the process for the other leg. To hide any remaining thread tails, pass the needle through the folded hem for about an inch, bring it out on the wrong side, and then cut away the excess. Your hand-stitched hem is now complete!
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Hemming without sewing
If you don't want to sew your pants, there are several alternative methods you can use to hem them. Here are some options:
Hemming Tape
Wear the pants and fold one hem to the desired length on the outside. Pin the fabric with a safety pin at the back and front to keep it in place. Then, turn the pants inside out and fold the unpinned hem to the inside, adjusting the length until it matches the pinned hem. Remove the pins and fold the other side, using the first fold as a guide. Finally, apply hemming tape or fabric glue to secure the hem. You can also iron the folds before applying the glue or tape for a cleaner finish.
Fabric Glue
Fabric glue can be used in a similar way to hemming tape. Set the hem at the desired length and apply glue to secure it. You can also use an iron to help set the glue.
Iron and Duct Tape
Another option is to use an iron and duct tape. Put on the pants and iron them to the desired length. Then, secure the hem with duct tape. You can also use staples along with duct tape for a more secure hold.
Double-Sided Tape
Double-sided tape can be used for a similar effect to hemming tape. Apply the tape along the hem and adjust as needed.
While these methods can be useful in a pinch, it's important to note that they may not hold up as well as sewing, especially for heavier fabrics.
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Ironing and pressing
First, it is important to understand the difference between pressing and ironing. Pressing is simply placing a hot iron on a seam or section of the pants without moving the iron. The iron is left in place for a few seconds, then lifted to check if the area is wrinkle-free. If not, the process is repeated. Pressing is often used when dealing with pleats or quilts to avoid stretching or shifting the fabric.
Ironing, on the other hand, involves moving the iron gently and slowly without tugging or pulling the fabric. Allow the heat of the iron to smooth out the wrinkles. When ironing pants, it is recommended to start with the pant legs turned inside out.
Folding and Ironing:
Before folding, ensure that the desired length of the pants is determined, and any necessary adjustments are made. Once the pants are inside out, fold up the raw edge of the pant leg opening by about half an inch, and iron this new fold. To prevent the raw edge from fraying, fold it over again by another half inch, and iron and pin this second fold.
Pressing the Hem:
After folding and ironing, press the hem to create a crisp finish. Place the pants on an ironing board or pressing mat. Use your iron to give the folds a good press, ensuring you follow the crease you have already ironed in. This step is crucial in achieving a neat and professional-looking hem.
Final Press:
Once the hem is sewn, give the pants a final press to set the stitches and keep the crease in place. Turn the pants right-side out and iron them, paying attention to the hem area. This final step ensures the hem lays flat and maintains its shape.
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Frequently asked questions
First, you need to measure the desired length. Wear the shoes you plan to wear with the pants and decide on the length. You can use a measuring tape or gauge to get the right length.
Turn the pants inside out and mark the trimming line on the inside. You can use tailor's chalk or a fabric marking pencil. Cut off any excess fabric with sewing shears.
A basic double-folded hem is a good technique for hemming pants. You can use a sewing machine or hand sew with a blind hem stitch. Ironing the folds before sewing will give you a crisp hem.
The amount of fabric to fold depends on the type of pants and your preference. For a double-folded hem, add about ⅞ of an inch to 1 inch seam allowance. This includes ⅜ inch for the first fold and ½ inch for the second fold.
Yes, you can use hemming tape, fabric glue, or liquid stitch as temporary alternatives to sewing. However, sewing is recommended for a more durable result, especially for heavier fabrics.
