The 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel engine is a well-known powerhouse, but even the mightiest engines have their weaknesses. One common issue is a leaking oil pan, often caused by rust. While there are repair kits available, the only permanent fix is to replace the oil pan. This typically involves removing the engine, which is a labour-intensive process. However, some people have found ways to replace the oil pan without removing the engine, such as by raising the engine or cutting the cross-member. The official Ford procedure recommends specific sealants and bead profiles for a successful installation.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Engine | 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel |
Vehicle | Ford Truck |
Year | 1999-2003 |
Oil Pan Replacement | Engine out, drained, and upside down on a stand |
Sealant | Wacker T-442 Motorcraft TA-31 Ford F5TZ-19G204-AB Navistar D15-5012 Type II International 1830858C1 |
Sealant Application | Two different bead profiles are recommended: 3mm (1/8") bead for long edges, 6mm (1/4") bead for short edges |
Bolts | 12 total bolts with a torque of 18 ft-lb |
Cost | $119 per hour, $2142 labor |
What You'll Learn
Removing the engine
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent any accidental electrical shorts during the removal process.
Step 2: Remove the Grille, Intercooler Pipes, and Air Intake
- Start by removing the grille at the front of the vehicle.
- Next, remove the intercooler pipes and the air intake system to provide better access to the engine.
Step 3: Remove the Batteries, Serpentine Belt, and Alternator
- Locate and remove the batteries, serpentine belt, and alternator.
- These components are typically found near the engine and may vary depending on your vehicle's configuration.
Step 4: Drain Engine Coolant and Remove Related Components
- Drain the engine coolant to prevent spills during engine removal.
- Remove the coolant overflow reservoir, radiator hoses, and any other related components connected to the cooling system.
Step 5: Disconnect the Oil Filter and Remove the Clutch Fan and Shroud
- Disconnect the oil filter and set it aside.
- Remove the clutch fan and shroud assembly to expose the engine further.
Step 6: Disconnect Transmission Lines and Remove the Transmission
- Separate the lower radiator hose from the water pump outlet.
- Disconnect the transmission cooler line from the radiator.
- If possible, remove the transmission to make the engine removal process easier.
Step 7: Disconnect Engine Wiring and Accessories
- Disconnect the main engine harness plug, which is usually located under the turbo inlet pipe.
- Remove the high-pressure line from the power steering pump and any other relevant engine accessories.
Step 8: Remove the Radiator and Front Accessory Brackets
- Using an impact tool, remove the radiator and the driver-side and passenger-side front accessory brackets.
- Disconnect the heater core hoses and position them toward the passenger-side fender well.
Step 9: Remove the Turbo Inlet Pipe and Intake Manifold
- Loosen the clamps securing the turbo inlet pipe and remove it.
- You may need to finagle the intake manifold to gain better access to the engine.
Step 10: Remove the Turbocharger and Fuel Lines
- With the turbo inlet pipe removed, you can now remove the turbocharger itself.
- Disconnect the fuel lines and any other relevant hoses or wires connected to the engine.
Step 11: Hoist the Engine and Remove Motor Mounts
- Use a chain or suitable lifting equipment to hoist the engine.
- Check for clearances between the engine, firewall, and surrounding components during the lifting process.
- Remove the motor mounts by loosening the nuts; there are typically two nuts per motor mount.
Step 12: Lift and Remove the Engine
- Continue lifting the engine in small increments until it is completely free from the engine bay.
- Ensure that all attachments and hoses are disconnected before removing the engine.
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Cleaning the oil pan mounting surface
To clean the oil pan mounting surface, you must first remove the old oil pan. This can be done by loosening the oil pan bolts and using a gasket scraper and hammer to break the seal between the oil pan and the block. You can then lower the old oil pan away from the block.
Next, you must remove any leftover sealant from the block. This can be done with a gasket scraper, and an air die grinder can be used to remove any remaining sealant. It is important to ensure that the mounting surface is completely clean and dry before installing the new oil pan. Any oil residue can be removed with brake cleaner, and the surface can be wiped until dry.
It is recommended to use only non-metal tools when cleaning the mounting surface, as the engine is made of soft aluminum, which can be easily damaged. Plastic or composite scrapers can be used to remove leftover sealant without damaging the surface.
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Applying sealant to the oil pan rails
When applying sealant to the oil pan rails, it is important to ensure that the rails are thoroughly cleaned and dried. Any residual oil on the rails can compromise the adhesion of the sealant, leading to potential oil leaks. Use brake cleaner to wipe down the rails and ensure they are completely dry before proceeding.
It is recommended to use RTV (room-temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant for this task. Ford recommends specific RTV sealants for their 7.3L Power Stroke engines, including Wacker T-442, Motorcraft TA-31, Ford F5TZ-19G204-AB, Navistar D15-5012 Type II, and International 1830858C1. These sealants are designed to withstand the extreme conditions of an engine and provide a strong, durable seal.
When applying the RTV sealant, follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use. Typically, you would apply a bead of sealant to the pan rails, allowing it to set for a few minutes before installing the pan. The bead size may vary depending on the area. For the long edges of the pan, a 3mm (1/8") bead is recommended, while the short edges may require a larger 6mm (1/4") bead for added insurance against leaks.
It is crucial to work quickly as the RTV sealant has a limited working time. Once the pan is installed, all bolts should be threaded and torqued to the recommended specifications. Allow the RTV to cure for at least 24 hours before starting the engine to ensure a proper seal.
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Using an angle grinder to remove leftover silicone
When removing an oil pan, it is important to remove all leftover silicone from the block. This can be done with a gasket scraper and hammer, or with an air die grinder.
Firstly, use a gasket scraper and a hammer to break the seal between the oil pan and the block. Start on the driver's side front corner and work your way around the perimeter of the oil pan. The RTV International used on these engines is some of the strongest in the industry, so breaking the seal can be challenging.
Next, use an air die grinder to remove any remaining silicone. Once you have removed as much as possible with the grinder, spray the block with brake cleaner and wipe it down until it is completely dry. It is important that the oil pan mounting surface is 100% dry before installing the new pan.
After removing the oil pan, it is also important to clean the oil pan's mounting surface on the block. This can be done with a gasket scraper and an air die grinder, followed by brake cleaner. Ensure that the surface is free of any leftover silicone before installing the new pan.
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Repairing the pan in place
If you're repairing the oil pan in place, you'll need to drain all the oil from the car's engine. Place a large plastic container under the car's oil pan and remove the drain plug with a wrench. Take the used oil to a recycling facility.
Use a rag to clean oil from the area surrounding the crack. If any oil spills, use an oil absorbent to clean it up. Scrub away dirt and debris with sandpaper, and then clean the area with mineral spirits. Let the area dry for about 10 minutes.
Apply a cold welding compound generously throughout the cracks. Wait 15 to 24 hours for the compound to cure. Then, replace the engine oil.
If you're repairing a leaky oil pan on a 7.3L Power Stroke engine, you can use a patch kit as a temporary fix. You can also try applying Ford's Motorcraft High Temp Anti-Corrosion Coating, Part Number PM-13-A, to the oil pan. First, clean the oil pan with a solvent to remove any dirt and oil. Then, use a small right-angle pneumatic high-speed rotary tool with a 3" 36-grit disc to grind off all loose corrosion. Blow off the pan with compressed air, wash it with soap and water, and let it dry completely. Finally, brush the Motorcraft PM-13-A anti-corrosion coating onto the oil pan and let it dry fully before operating the vehicle.
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