Tillie Doyle
Shortening a VW pan is a complex process that requires careful planning and execution. It involves removing the body from the chassis, cutting and welding the pan to the desired length, and making adjustments to the brake cables, tubes, and other components. While some attempt this challenging task alone, others opt for assistance to avoid mishaps. Online forums offer a wealth of advice and experiences, with enthusiasts sharing their methods, tips, and even mishaps, such as one individual who chose to winch their VW and ended up collapsing their garage roof!
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Lifting the body off the chassis | Get four helpers, two 12-foot 2X6's, and four saw horses. First, lift the front of the body off the frame and slip a 2X6 under the wheel wells, supporting each side with saw horses. |
| Removing the body | Remove all bolts from the channel under the outer edge of the frame, as well as four bolts in the middle of the underside of the car, just in front of the rear torsion bar housing. |
| Shortening the pan | Cut out 14-1/4 inches straight across the frame and cut darts out of the rear half to make the two sides match. |
| Strengthening the weld | Cut and weld a 1-1/2 inch wide strip from the removed tunnel piece over the top of the tunnel weld. Weld the sides of the tunnel just below the hand brake opening. |
| Shortening cables | Measure and cut the emergency brake tubes, using a sawsall. Use a hose clamp to join the tubes together. |
| Clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines | Shorten the lines sticking out the rear of the chassis using measurements taken before cutting. Re-install the fuel line grommet and braze the clutch and accelerator cable tubes to the edge of the pan. |
| Additional tips | Consider using new pan halves and cutting them down for better alignment. An angled cut may be stronger than a straight cut. |
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What You'll Learn
Removing the body from the chassis
Preparation:
Before beginning, gather the necessary tools and equipment, including an air-powered impact wrench, saw horses, 2x6 wooden boards, and helpers to assist with the lifting. Ensure you have a clear and level workspace to facilitate the removal process.
Lifting the Body:
The first step is to lift the front of the body off the frame. Place a 2x6 board under the wheel wells on each side and support it with saw horses. Repeat this process at the rear of the car. Ensure the body is securely supported before proceeding.
Separating the Body and Chassis:
Once the body is lifted, you can access the bolts securing the body to the chassis. Remove all the bolts from the channel under the outer edge of the frame using an air-powered impact wrench. Remember to remove the four bolts in the middle of the underside of the car, located just in front of the rear torsion bar housing. With all bolts removed, you can carefully separate the body from the chassis.
Lowering the Body:
After separation, carefully lower the body back down. Ensure you have a clear workspace underneath to roll out the frame. Take your time during this step to avoid any damage to the body or chassis.
Cleaning and Preparation:
With the body removed, clean and prepare the frame before shortening. This includes removing any old floor pans, sandblasting the chassis, and addressing any rust or paint issues. Ensure the frame is ready for the shortening process, following the specific instructions provided in your chosen method for shortening the VW pan.
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Cutting the frame
First, lift the body of the VW off the chassis. This can be done by using a winch and a secure structure, or by enlisting helpers and using 2x6's and sawhorses to lift and support the car. Once the body is lifted, slip the 2x6's under the wheel wells on each side and support them with sawhorses. Repeat this process for the rear of the car until the body is high enough to remove the frame.
Next, prepare the frame for shortening. Clean the frame thoroughly, removing any rust and old paint. This includes getting rid of the thick tar-based sound-deadening material, which can be done with a chisel and hammer, an air chisel, or by heating the metal to melt the tar away. Be warned, the latter method can be a smelly process.
Now, you need to remove several components from the car. These include the shift rod, rear brake drums, emergency brake cables, and the hydraulic brake line. Remember to detach the shift rod from the transmission before removal. Leave the front suspension on for now, as it will be useful for measuring and aligning the chassis later.
With the frame cleaned and components removed, it's time to level the pan. Support the pan about 2 feet off the ground, ensuring it is perfectly level for cutting and welding. Use a bubble level to centre the pan and adjust the supports as needed. Check the level from the front and sides, using straight edges across the shock towers and rear suspension mounts. Verify the frame is straight by measuring the distance from the top of a front shock tower to one of the body attachment bolt holes in the rear cast suspension mounts.
At this point, you are ready to start cutting the frame. The amount and pattern of the cut depend on the desired final dimensions. For example, shortening a VW pan for a Speedster involves cutting out 10 inches in a delta pattern and then overlapping and welding the edges to achieve an 11.81-inch reduction. Alternatively, you may need to cut out 14-1/4 inches straight across the frame and then create darts in the rear half to match the two sides, as the VW pan's sides are not parallel.
Remember, always exercise caution when cutting and welding, and ensure you have the necessary skills, safety equipment, and knowledge to perform these tasks safely.
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Welding the pan
Once the body is off the frame, the frame needs to be cleaned and prepared for welding. The engine must be removed because of its weight, and the pan must be turned over to weld the bottom. To strengthen the tunnel weld, cut a 1-1/2 inch wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the top of the tunnel weld. If there are slots next to the emergency hand brake for heater controls, these must be welded shut and reinforced. Cut the remaining tunnel piece lengthwise into 1-1/2 inch wide strips. Weld one strip to each side of the tunnel on the vertical surface just below the hand brake opening.
Additionally, the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines protruding from the rear of the chassis must be shortened. Utilize the measurements taken before the chassis was cut in half to ensure the correct length. Reinstall the fuel line grommet to prevent rattling, and braze the clutch and accelerator cable tubes to the edge of the pan, just beneath the rear access cover.
It is important to note that there are different approaches to shortening a VW pan, and the process may vary depending on the specific model and your personal preferences. Always prioritize safety and ensure you have the necessary skills, equipment, and assistance before attempting any vehicle modifications.
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Shortening the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines
Now, at the rear access cover, measure how far the clutch and accelerator tubes extend out behind the chassis. Cut them away from the bracket that holds them to the tunnel. Remove the rubber grommet where the fuel line sticks out of the rear transmission fork. When the halves are pushed together, these lines will be pushed back and extended further out of the holes from which they currently protrude.
Once the halves are together, carefully pull the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines out of their respective openings. Re-install the fuel line grommet to keep it from rattling. Braze the clutch and accelerator cables tubes to the edge of the pan just under the rear access cover.
Don't forget that the shift rod must also be shortened by 14-1/4 inches. When you shorten the rod, scribe a horizontal line on the rod before cutting to ensure that the two halves go back together without any twist.
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Re-installing the fuel line grommet
Before inserting the new grommet, apply a generous amount of lubricant to the grommet's inner and outer surfaces. This will make it easier to insert the fuel line and reduce friction. You can use grease, Vaseline, or silicone spray as a lubricant. Next, cut a small pilot hole in the centre of the grommet using a sharp knife or razor blade. This hole will guide the fuel line.
Now, you can begin inserting the fuel line. Thread a wire or coat hanger through the pilot hole and out the other side of the grommet. Securely tie the fuel line to the wire using a knot or zip tie. Gently pull the wire through the grommet, guiding the fuel line along with it. Use pliers if you need more force. Once the fuel line is through, inspect the connection for any leaks.
If the fuel line gets stuck during the process, apply more lubricant and gently wiggle the wire. If leaks occur, tighten the connection or use a sealant. Double-check for leaks before starting the engine.
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Frequently asked questions
You can use four helpers, two 12-foot 2X6's, and four sawhorses. Lift the front of the body off the frame and slip a 2X6 under the wheel wells, supporting each side with sawhorses. Repeat this process at the rear of the car.
Cut out 14-1/4 inches straight across the frame, then cut darts out of the rear half to make the two sides match when they are put back together.
If you can get shortened cables, keep the tubes intact up to the rear of the hand brake cable opening. Measure and mark the distance from the forward tunnel cut to the tubes' front, then sever the tubes at this point.
Cut a 1-1/2 inch-wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the tunnel weld. If the pan has slots next to the emergency hand brake, weld them shut and strengthen them with the cut strips.
