The Melty Truth: Fondue's French Or Italian Roots

Fondue is a Swiss dish of melted cheese and wine, served in a communal pot and eaten by dipping in bread, vegetables, or other snacks. The Swiss Cheese Union popularised it as Switzerland's national dish in the 1930s, and it became a symbol of Swiss unity. However, the dish is also made in the Alpine regions of Italy (Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta) and France (Savoy). The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, but the origin of the meal is lost in legends. The Italian version, Fonduta, is made with Fontina cheese, milk, and egg yolks, and is served with crostini and boiled potatoes.

Swiss Fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish typically consisting of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot over a portable stove. It is often served with cubes of bread for dipping, and sometimes vegetables or other snacks. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "to cook cheese with wine". It calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) promoted fondue as Switzerland's national dish to increase cheese consumption. Fondue was also popularised in North America in the 1960s, particularly in suburban America.

There are several regional varieties of Swiss-style fondue, but the basic ingredients are the same: Gruyere cheese, often mixed with other types of Swiss cheese like Emmental, Sbrinz, Appenzeller or Fribourg vacherin, is melted in a caquelon (a wide, shallow earthenware pot) until fully melted, along with a bit of cornstarch or flour to create a smooth texture. Swiss-style fondue is traditionally flavoured with garlic, white wine, and kirsch (Swiss cherry brandy), but other seasonings like herbs, peppers, chillies, and occasionally mushrooms and crushed tomato are also used.

One popular variety is an equal blend of Gruyere and Vacherin Fribougeois, known as "moitiè-moitiè" or "half-half". In eastern Switzerland, it's more likely to be Gruyere mixed with an aromatic Appenzeller. In Valais, you'll often find a blend of Gruyere and Raclette, while in canton Bern, Emmentaler is the most common variety.

Although cheese, wine, and garlic are the basic ingredients in Swiss fondue, other common add-ins include mountain herbs, paprika, cayenne, nutmeg, and mustard. The bread served with fondue is always sturdy and can be either white or brown, cut into bite-sized chunks for dipping. Accompaniments often include potatoes, cornichon, and pickled pearl onions. Accompanying beverages typically include white wine, tea, and occasionally a glass of kirsch.

Fondue is considered a winter meal in Switzerland and is traditionally enjoyed as a comforting family-style meal. It is generally only tourists who consume fondue during the summer months. Fondue is traditionally made and served in an earthenware pot known as a caquelon, which heats evenly and retains heat so that the meal can be enjoyed slowly.

Italian Fondue

Ingredients:

• 350 ml dry Italian white wine
• 1 garlic clove, peeled
• 300 g Fontina
• 300 g Parmesan
• 250 g Mozzarella di Buffala
• 30 ml Grappa alcohol
• 30 ml olive oil
• 2 tablespoons fresh basil
• Italian bread (e.g. ciabatta or focaccia), cut into pieces

Preparation:

• Cut the cheese into cubes or grate it coarsely.
• Rub the pan with the garlic clove to delicately flavour the fondue, then pour in the white wine.
• Heat the wine over low heat. When it is hot, gradually add the cheese.
• Stir until all the cheese is melted. Be careful not to let the mixture boil.
• When the mixture is homogeneous, add the Grappa and continue stirring, then add the chopped basil.
• Serve warm with the bread for dipping.

French Fondue

Fondue, which comes from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in Switzerland in the 18th century. It was initially a way for farm families to stretch their limited resources during the winter months. The Swiss designated fondue as a national dish in the 1930s. However, there are variations of fondue in neighbouring countries like Italy and France.

Another popular recipe is the Savoyarde fondue, made with a blend of Gruyère, Comté, and Beaufort cheeses. This variety is said to be the most common, with the least rigid recipe. It uses Comté as the primary basis and is mixed with other local cheese varieties.

The Norman fondue is made with a unique set of soft cheeses, including Camembert, Pont-l’Evêque, and Livarot, unlike other recipes that use firm cheese.

Some fondue recipes from the French Alps require that the caquelon (a special cast iron or clay pot) is rubbed with garlic and include wine and butter.

A specific type of fondue, called Ramequin, is made in the commune of Saint-Rambert-en-Bugey. It is prepared using only one cheese variety—Ramequin—melted in the caquelon with butter and a bit of water to achieve the right consistency.

The preparation technique for French fondue is the same as for Swiss fondue. The type of Swiss cheese used is swapped for local French varieties, and specific regions have specific preferences.

The History of Fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish that typically consists of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "to cook cheese with wine". The book calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it.

The word "fondue" is the feminine passive past participle of the French verb "fondre" ("to melt") and was first attested in French in 1735, in Vincent La Chapelle's "Cuisinier moderne". However, until the late 19th century, the name "cheese fondue" referred to a dish composed of eggs and cheese, as in La Chapelle's 1735 "Fonduë de Fromage, aux Truffes Fraiches", which was similar to a cheese soufflé. The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue under that name, with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published in 1875 and was presented as a Swiss national dish.

Fondue was popularized as a Swiss national dish by the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) in the 1930s as a way of increasing cheese consumption. It was also promoted as a symbol of Swiss unity and associated with mountains and winter sports. The Swiss Cheese Union created pseudo-regional recipes as part of the "spiritual defence of Switzerland" and sent fondue sets to military regiments and event organizers across Switzerland.

In the 1950s, the term "fondue" began to be generalized to other dishes in which food is dipped into a communal pot of liquid kept hot. For example, fondue bourguignonne, in which pieces of meat are cooked in hot oil or broth, and chocolate fondue, in which pieces of fruit or pastry are dipped into a melted chocolate mixture.

Fondue became popular in North America in the 1960s, particularly in the 1960s and 1970s, when it was promoted to Americans at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the 1964 New York World's Fair.

While fondue is commonly associated with Switzerland, similar dishes are also found in France and the Alpine regions of Italy (Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta). Different regions use a variety of cheeses, including Vacherin, Appenzeller, and Sbrinz in Switzerland; Comté, Beaufort, and Reblochon in France; and Fontina in Italy.

How to Make Fondue

A quick search reveals that fondue is a Swiss dish, with origins in the Alps, where it was eaten by farmers and peasants as a simple, hearty meal to make use of leftovers and provide much-needed warmth and energy. The word 'fondue' comes from the French word 'fondre', which means 'to melt'. While Switzerland is fondue's homeland, the dish has strong connections to both France and Italy due to their shared borders and similar cultures. Now, here is a step-by-step guide on how to make a classic Swiss cheese fondue:

Ingredients:

• 1 clove of garlic
• 1 lb of emulsifying cheese (a mix of grated or shredded Gruyère and Emmentaler cheeses; you can also add in some Appenzeller or Raclette cheese for extra flavor)
• 2 tablespoons of cornstarch
• 1 cup of dry white wine (Swiss Fendant or another crisp variety)
• 1 tablespoon of lemon juice
• A pinch of nutmeg
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Day-old bread (such as baguette or country loaf), cut into bite-sized cubes
• Optional: cherry tomatoes, boiled baby potatoes, pickled vegetables, or other dipping items of your choice

Instructions:

#### Step 1: Prepare Your Equipment

To make fondue, you will need a fondue pot, a stove or hot plate, and fondue forks or long skewers. If using a traditional fondue set, prepare the burner by filling it with fondue fuel (usually a gel or liquid fuel) and ensure it is lit and stable before proceeding. If using an electric fondue pot, simply plug it in and set it to the desired temperature.

#### Step 2: Rub the Pot with Garlic

Take the garlic clove and cut it in half. Rub the inside of your fondue pot vigorously with the cut side of the garlic. This will infuse the pot with a subtle garlic flavor.

#### Step 3: Prepare the Cheese

Toss the grated or shredded cheese with the cornstarch in a large bowl. This step is important as the cornstarch will help the cheese melt smoothly and prevent it from becoming a sticky, stringy mess.

#### Step 4: Add Wine and Lemon Juice

Pour the wine and lemon juice into the fondue pot and place it on the stove or hot plate. Set the heat to medium-low. Bring the wine to a gentle simmer—you do not want it to boil.

#### Step 5: Add the Cheese Gradually

Add the cheese to the pot a handful at a time, stirring constantly in a figure-eight pattern. Ensure each addition of cheese is fully melted before adding more. This process should be slow and gentle to ensure a smooth, creamy fondue.

#### Step 6: Season and Adjust Consistency

Once all the cheese has been added and melted, season the fondue with nutmeg and black pepper to taste. If the fondue seems too thick, you can thin it out by adding a little more wine or lemon juice. Stir well and adjust the seasoning as needed.

#### Step 7: Serve with Dippers

Transfer the fondue pot to your dining table or serving area. If using a traditional fondue set, the burner should keep the fondue warm and melted. If using an electric pot, ensure it remains plugged in. Arrange the bread cubes and any other dippers around the fondue pot and provide each guest with a fondue fork or skewer.

#### Step 8: Enjoy!

Fondue is a social dish, perfect for sharing with friends and family. Each person should spear a piece of bread or another dipper with their fork and swirl it in the fondue, ensuring it is well coated with cheese. Take your time and enjoy the interactive, delicious experience of fondue!

Note: Fondue is best enjoyed fresh and does not reheat well. Any leftovers should be stored in the refrigerator, but they are best used in other dishes, such as grilled cheese sandwiches or stirred into pasta.

Frequently asked questions