Fondue's Popularity: A Timeless Classic Or Fading Fad?

Fondue is a Swiss dish typically consisting of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. It was popularized in North America in the 1960s and 1970s, along with other foods made in chafing dishes. Fondue was promoted as a Swiss national dish by the Swiss Cheese Union in the 1930s as a way of increasing cheese consumption. Fondue is often associated with mountains and winter sports. Fondue parties are retro-style, but international social dinner themes like the hot pot can be incorporated into a fondue party menu to spice things up. Fondue is simple, comforting, communal, and versatile. It can be traditional, as in the pots of melted cheese cut with white wine and fruit liqueur made famous by the Swiss, or it can be a fondue bourguignonne, which involves slivers of meat held in heated oil and is considered French in origin. Fondue's popularity has waxed and waned over the years, but it remains a staple at some restaurants and may be primed for another resurgence.

Fondue's popularity in the 1960s and 1970s

The Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the 1964 World Fair in New York played a significant role in introducing fondue to Americans. Large-scale advertising campaigns featuring attractive Swiss people in ski sweaters, partying over pots of cheese, further fuelled its popularity. By the 1960s, multiple brands offered premade fondue packets or cans, making it convenient to host fondue parties. There was also a surge in the availability of fondue cookbooks and a variety of fondue pots in different price ranges.

Fondue parties were considered "groovy" and "swanky," with guests dipping bread, boiled potatoes, cherry tomatoes, or cooked mini meatballs into a communal pot of melted cheese. The social and interactive nature of fondue dining, combined with its simplicity and versatility, contributed to its widespread appeal. However, by the mid-1970s, the popularity of fondue started to wane, with cookbooks and magazines portraying fondue as difficult, potentially dangerous, and even creepy. Despite this, fondue has continued to experience revivals, with a resurgence in the early 1990s and early 2000s, showcasing its enduring appeal.

The Swiss Cheese Union's role in popularising fondue

The Swiss Cheese Union was a cartel that ruled the Swiss economy and controlled cheese production from 1914 until its disbandment in the late 1990s. The Union was formed by cheese producers to develop strict non-compete guidelines and control the price of milk, limiting its production and the types of cheese that could be made in Switzerland.

In the 1930s, the Union embarked on intensive campaigns to promote cheese, as cheese production had exceeded consumption. They settled on fondue as the ideal dish to increase demand and consumption of Swiss cheese, as it required large amounts of cheese to make. The Union marketed fondue as an Alpine specialty steeped in tradition, using recognisable iconography such as Heidi to emphasise the dish's wholesomeness and authenticity. They also played on the idea of fondue weather, suggesting that the dish delivered a feeling of warmth.

The Swiss Cheese Union's marketing campaigns were highly successful, and fondue became a popular dish in Switzerland and abroad. It is now considered the Swiss national dish.

The decline of fondue's popularity

Fondue's popularity has waxed and waned over the years, but it is currently experiencing something of a decline. Fondue was first popularised in the 1930s by the Swiss Cheese Union, who were keen to increase cheese consumption. Fondue was promoted as a Swiss national dish and, in the 1950s and 60s, the Union began selling the now-familiar image of fondue with "big ad campaigns of good-looking Swiss people in ski sweaters partying it up over pots of cheese".

Fondue was then introduced to Americans at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the 1964 New York World's Fair, and it quickly became a symbol of the Swinging Sixties. However, by the 1970s, Americans began to turn away from fondue as they became more health-conscious. Fondue was also associated with kitsch, and the fondue set became an unwanted relic of a bygone era.

Fondue has experienced something of a revival in recent years, with sales of fondue sets doubling or tripling in some places. However, this revival appears to be short-lived, with fondue once again falling out of favour. So, what are the reasons for the decline of fondue's popularity?

One reason could be the perception of fondue as a "kitsch" food item. Fondue parties are seen as too nostalgic and too specific to one demographic and one type of experience. There is also a small chance that one of your guests might set your house on fire!

Another reason could be the health concerns associated with fondue. Fondue is typically made with large amounts of cheese and wine, and it is often served with bread, meat, or other carbohydrates. This can be seen as unhealthy, especially for those with dietary restrictions or allergies.

Additionally, the fondue set itself has become an unwanted kitchen appliance. Many people do not want to store yet another appliance in their homes, and the fondue set is often seen as taking up valuable space.

Finally, the decline in fondue's popularity could be due to the changing tastes and preferences of consumers. Food trends come and go, and it is possible that fondue has simply had its time in the sun. Consumers may be looking for new and exciting dining experiences that offer something different to what they have had before.

Fondue's association with kitsch

Fondue's retro appeal is embraced by those who host fondue parties, with guests encouraged to dress in retro attire, and serve apres-ski cordials like Chartreuse, Grappa, and Amaro. The kitsch factor is also evident in the servingware, with mid-century-inspired bar carts and vintage Playboy magazines adding to the nostalgic vibe.

The fondue pot itself is a central element of the kitsch aesthetic, with its unique design and presentation. The pot is placed in the centre of the table, surrounded by various dipping options, creating a sense of communal dining. This presentation style adds to the retro appeal, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era.

While fondue's association with kitsch is strong, it also has a versatile nature, with international themes and creative ingredients giving it a modern twist. From Mexican-inspired cheese fondue to Indian-style minced lamb fondue, the dish has evolved beyond its traditional Swiss roots.

Despite these modern interpretations, fondue remains closely linked to kitsch, with its retro appeal continuing to captivate diners and create a sense of nostalgia for a past era.

Fondue's modern-day popularity

Fondue is still popular today, though it may not be as trendy as it was in the 1960s and 1970s. Fondue's popularity in the US was largely driven by the Swiss Cheese Union, which marketed the dish as a Swiss national delicacy to increase cheese consumption. Fondue's popularity peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, but it has seen several revivals since, including in the early 1990s, early 2000s, and 2010s.

Fondue's resurgence can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, it is a simple, comforting, communal, and versatile dish that can be easily adapted to different tastes and dietary restrictions. For example, fondue parties can be turned into potlucks, and the traditional cheese fondue can be replaced with international variations, such as Mexican-inspired fondue with jalapeños and Monterey Jack cheese or an Irish-influenced version with Guinness and Irish cheddar.

Secondly, fondue has a strong association with nostalgia and kitsch, which can be appealing in times of cultural anxiety. Fondue parties evoke the Swinging Sixties and are seen as a novelty or a cute throwback. Additionally, the rise of social media and the desire to share picture-perfect meals may have contributed to fondue's modern-day popularity.

Finally, fondue's versatility and adaptability have likely contributed to its staying power. While traditional cheese fondue remains popular, there has been an increase in interest in other types of fondue, such as fondue bourguignonne (meat cooked in hot oil or broth) and chocolate fondue. Restaurants have also experimented with different variations, such as a soft Swabian pretzel paired with a cauliflower and Comté cheese dip.

Today, fondue is enjoyed worldwide, with sales of fondue pots doubling or tripling in some regions. It continues to be a symbol of Swiss unity and is often associated with mountains and winter sports.

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