Shower Pan Solutions: Tiles That Stick

When remodelling a bathroom, one of the most important decisions is the type of material to use for your shower. There are several options to choose from, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. One option is to use a prefabricated shower stall, which is usually made of fiberglass or acrylic and is less expensive and faster to install than a custom-built tile or stone shower. Another option is to install a custom-built ceramic tile or stone shower, which offers more durability, design flexibility, and a higher resale value but is more costly and time-consuming to install. In this article, we will specifically focus on the topic of shower pans and whether there is a particular type that tile sticks to, providing an overview of the different choices available and the considerations to keep in mind for a successful tile installation.

Tile-ready shower pans

Several companies, such as Noble and Schluter, and Tile Redi, offer these shower pans in a variety of shapes and sizes, including standard and custom options. The Tile Redi range includes single curb shower pans with integrated drain, curb, and splash walls. These pans are pre-pitched and ready for tiling, simplifying the installation process.

The Tile-Basin® shower base is another example of a tile-ready product. It is manufactured with KBRS Hard Core Technology, ensuring a rock-solid and 100% leak-proof base. This product is also designed to prevent mould growth in the substrate, a common issue in shower areas.

When choosing a tile-ready shower pan, it is important to consider the size and shape that will best fit your space. Additionally, opting for a custom-sized pan will provide a more tailored solution but may come with a higher price tag.

Overall, tile-ready shower pans offer a convenient and efficient alternative to traditional mud pans, providing a waterproof base for your tile installation.

Custom-built ceramic tile or stone showers

The process of building a custom-built ceramic tile or stone shower typically involves the following steps:

• Carpenters construct the structural frame for the shower alcove using materials like Wonderboard or Durock cement board panels.
• Tilers then step in to finish the tile or stonework.
• The shower door must be custom-ordered to size and installed by a carpenter.
• A shower pan is installed. There are several options for shower pans, including:
• A traditional mud pan: This method involves laying a thin layer of Portland cement and sand (also known as "mud") across the subfloor, pitched toward a drain. A waterproofing membrane is then laid down, followed by sheets of tile backerboard. Finally, another layer of Portland cement and sand is applied, and tile can be adhered using thinset cement.
• A thin-bed mud pan: Similar to the traditional mud pan, but the membrane is placed on top of the mud, and tile is adhered directly to the membrane.
• A pre-sloped pan form: This option eliminates the need for a mud bed and uses a sloped shower pan with an attached waterproofing layer.

It is important to note that custom-built showers typically require experienced labour, making them more expensive than prefabricated options. Additionally, custom tile showers can be challenging to install and may require professional installation.

Pros and cons of prefabricated showers

Prefabricated showers are mass-produced in factories and are usually made of plastic, Gelcoat fibreglass, or acrylic. They are available as kits with wall surrounds and shower bases or pans, and typically come in standard widths. Prefab showers are chip and crack-resistant and watertight. They are also easy to install, clean, and maintain.

Pros:

• Prefabricated showers are easy and quick to install, making them a good DIY project.
• They are watertight and chip and crack-resistant.
• Prefab showers are more affordable than custom-tiled showers, with prices starting at around $550.
• They are easy to clean and maintain as they have fewer grout lines that can develop mould and mildew.
• Prefab showers can mimic the look of tiled showers with faux tile wall panels and various configurations, such as built-in shelves, grab bars, and seating.
• They are lightweight and durable, making them a good choice for homes with structural floor issues.
• Prefabricated showers create less mess during installation since most of the work is done off-site.
• They have fewer incidents of water leaks compared to custom-built showers if installed correctly.

Cons:

• Prefab showers have a generic appearance compared to custom-tiled showers.
• They are available in a limited selection of standard sizes, which may not fit through doorways and hallways during remodelling.
• There is a lack of available parts for repairs, and they can be difficult to remove if you want to change your bathroom design.
• Prefabricated showers are not eco-friendly as the plastics used are not easily recyclable and will not decompose.
• They have size limitations, especially the one-piece units, which may not fit through doorways during remodelling projects.

Installation materials for a tile shower floor

Tiling a shower floor is a complex process that requires careful preparation and the right tools. Here is a detailed guide on the installation materials and steps for tiling a shower floor.

Planning and Preparation:

• Remove Old Tiles: If you're retiling, start by removing old tiles and the backing board. Cover doorways with plastic, wear protective gear, and use a hammer and chisel to break the tiles.
• Vapor Barrier: Install a vapor barrier on the shower walls to prevent moisture buildup and potential mould and mildew issues.
• Cement Board Backer: Install a sturdy cement board backer, cut to fit your shower walls. Screw the board to the studs, leaving a small gap between the panels and the shower pan to avoid squeaking.
• Sealing: Apply seam tape and mortar to the edges of the backer board, and caulk behind the board on the studs. Paint a water-resistant primer over the backer board to prevent moisture buildup.

Tiling:

• Layout and Design: Plan your tile layout and pattern. Measure and mark the centre of each wall, and create a grid with vertical and horizontal lines using a level and straight edge.
• Mortar and Adhesion: Mix thin-set mortar and apply it to the wall using a notched trowel. Start tiling from the centre, moving outward, using spacers between tiles.
• Cutting and Fitting: As you reach edges and corners, cut tiles to fit using a glass cutter, manual tile cutter, or wet saw.
• Let it Set: Once tiling is complete, allow the tiles to set for at least 24 hours to ensure the mortar adheres properly.

Grouting and Finishing:

• Grouting: Apply grout to the tiles in small sections, pressing it into the spaces with a grout float. Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge.
• Sealing: After the grout has cured for a few days, apply a grout sealant.
• Caulking: Caulk the seams around the shower pan and other edges and joints.

Custom Shower Pan Options:

If you're installing a tile shower floor, you have several options for creating a waterproof base or shower pan:

• Traditional Mud Pan: This method involves creating a sloped layer of Portland cement and sand, followed by a waterproofing membrane and another layer of cement before tiling.
• Thin-Bed Mud Pan: Similar to the traditional method, but the waterproofing membrane is placed on top of the thin layer of mud.
• Pre-Sloped Pan Forms: Eliminate the need for mixing mud by using pre-sloped shower pan forms made of foam or plastic, available in various shapes and sizes.

Prefabricated Shower Stalls:

If you prefer a quicker and more affordable option, consider a prefabricated shower stall. These typically come in fiberglass or acrylic kits and are easier to install, but offer limited design options and may be less durable.

Now you have a comprehensive understanding of the installation materials and steps for a tile shower floor, as well as the available options for custom shower pans or prefabricated stalls.

Problems with thinset mortar

Thinset mortar is a critical component in tile installation. When applied incorrectly, the installation will likely fail, and the tile will break. Here are some common problems with thinset mortar and how to avoid them:

Incorrect Application

The way you trowel the mortar for setting tile makes a big difference. When the mortar isn't properly troweled, it creates unsupported space under the tiles, which become weak spots that can easily break under impact or heavy loads. To avoid this, it's important to select the right trowel type and notch size, spread the mortar completely to the layout line, and trowel the mortar correctly by playing it straight.

Improper Mixing

Improperly mixing the mortar can cause issues with the installation or even lead to complete failure. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions on the bag and understand the basics of how mortars work on a chemical and microscopic level. Some key steps to ensure a proper mix include adding the powder to the water, making small batches to allow for adjustments, and mixing slowly with a low rpm drill and a spiral-type mixing paddle to minimise trapped air.

Slow Curing

In some cases, thinset mortar may take longer than expected to cure, which can be concerning for installers. This could be due to various factors such as temperature, the type of thinset used, or even a bad batch of thinset. It's important to allow adequate curing time, especially when installing tiles over a membrane, as the drying process can take longer when sandwiched between two impermeable materials.

Inadequate Coverage

Not spreading the mortar adequately can result in dangerous voids that lead to catastrophic failure, especially in areas subject to high impact or point loads. It's crucial to spread the mortar completely up to the layout line and ensure proper coverage to support the tile.

Incompatible Substrates

Using the wrong type of thinset for the substrate can affect the bonding strength and durability of the installation. For example, using unmodified thinset on porous materials like plywood can result in the substrate sucking the moisture out of the thinset, leading to a weak bond. It's important to follow manufacturer recommendations and use modified thinset for porous substrates.

Frequently asked questions