The Melting History Of Fondue: A Regional Origin Story

Fondue is a Swiss dish, typically consisting of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name Käss mit Wein zu kochen ('to cook cheese with wine'). It calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it. Fondue was promoted as a Swiss national dish by the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) in the 1930s and was popularized in North America in the 1960s.

The Swiss Cheese Union's role in popularising fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish that typically consists of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot and eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks. It is believed to have originated in Switzerland as a way to use hardened cheese and stale bread during the winter months. The earliest known recipe for modern fondue, which calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, dates back to 1699. However, the name "cheese fondue" referred to a dish composed of eggs and cheese until the late 19th century.

The Swiss Cheese Union, or Schweizerische Käseunion, played a significant role in popularising fondue. It was a marketing and trading organisation in Switzerland that operated as a cartel to control cheese production from 1914 to 1999. The union was formed by cheese producers to combat the slump in exports due to World War I. They established strict non-compete guidelines, limiting production and the types of cheese that could be made in Switzerland.

To address the issue of overproduction, the Swiss Cheese Union turned to fondue as a solution. They launched aggressive marketing campaigns in the 1930s, promoting fondue as an Alpine specialty and a traditional Swiss dish. They used iconic imagery, such as good-looking Swiss people in ski sweaters partying over pots of fondue, to create an infectious enthusiasm for the dish. These campaigns were highly successful, and fondue became immensely popular in Switzerland and abroad. It transformed from a regional dish to a Swiss national dish, with the Swiss Cheese Union even creating pseudo-regional recipes as part of the "spiritual defence of Switzerland".

The Swiss Cheese Union's efforts to popularise fondue extended beyond marketing. After World War II, they continued their campaign by sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across Switzerland. They also maintained their control over cheese production, mandating that production be limited to only a few varieties, chiefly Gruyere and Emmental. This ensured that the cheeses used in fondue were readily available and accessible to consumers.

The popularity of fondue peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, with fondue sets becoming a staple in many American households. However, by the late 1990s, the Swiss Cheese Union disbanded amid allegations of corruption and concerns over the high costs of cheese subsidies. Despite its demise, the Swiss Cheese Union's impact on the popularity of fondue is undeniable, and fondue remains a beloved dish in Switzerland and beyond.

The origins of fondue

Fondue, from the French "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in 18th-century Switzerland. The first written recipes for fondue appear in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, although they call for Gruyère, a Swiss cheese. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zürich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" ('to cook cheese with wine').

In Switzerland, fondue was a way to use hardened cheese and stale bread during the winter months when fresh produce was scarce. By dipping the bread in melted cheese, it was softened and became more palatable. The dish was typically made with a combination of cheese, wine, garlic, and herbs. Fondue was also a way for farm families to stretch their limited resources.

The Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) popularised fondue as Switzerland's national dish in the 1930s as a way of increasing cheese consumption. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union continued its marketing campaign, sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across Switzerland. Fondue is now a symbol of Swiss unity.

In the 1950s, the term "fondue" began to be generalised to other dishes in which food is dipped into a communal pot of liquid kept hot. For example, fondue bourguignonne, in which pieces of meat are cooked in hot oil or broth, and chocolate fondue, in which fruit or pastry is dipped into melted chocolate.

Although fondue may have originated in Switzerland, similar dishes exist in cultures around the world, such as Chinese hot pots and Japanese shabu-shabu.

Different types of fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish that consists of cheese melted with wine, served in a communal pot and eaten by dipping in bread, vegetables or other foods. The term "fondue" has since been generalised to other dishes with a similar format, such as chocolate fondue and fondue bourguignonne, which involves cooking meat in hot oil.

Cheese Fondue

The traditional Swiss fondue consists of a blend of cheeses, wine, and seasoning. The cheeses are typically Swiss, such as Gruyère and Emmental, and the wine is white. A small amount of kirsch (cherry brandy) is often added. Fondue Fribourgeoise, from Fribourg, is a little different in that it uses Vacherin Fribourgeois cheese and water instead of wine, and is served with potatoes instead of bread.

Fondue Bourguignonne

Fondue Bourguignonne is a type of fondue where chunks of meat are cooked in hot oil or broth. It is served with an assortment of dipping sauces such as Béarnaise, aioli, and horseradish sauce.

Chocolate Fondue

Chocolate fondue is made by melting chocolate and serving it in a communal pot. Foods such as fruit, pastry, pretzels, marshmallows, and strawberries are then dipped into the chocolate.

Other Types of Fondue

There are many other types of fondue, both sweet and savoury. Examples include beer cheese fondue, spinach and artichoke fondue, s'mores fondue, and even crab fondue.

How to eat fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish typically consisting of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. It is eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks into the cheese using long-stemmed forks. Here are some tips on how to eat fondue:

Use the Right Utensils

Use the special fondue fork, and make sure to use only your front teeth to remove the bread from the fork. Keep your lips and tongue away from the tines. Some people recommend using a separate fork for eating, rather than eating directly from the dipping fork.

Stir in a Clockwise Direction

Stir the fondue in a clockwise direction or in a figure-eight pattern to keep the cheese homogenized until you reach the bottom of the pot.

Keep Your Table Clean

Twirl the cheese-covered bread around to catch any drips before bringing it to your mouth. This will help to keep your table clean and free of cheese strands.

Avoid Double-Dipping

Double-dipping is considered impolite and unsanitary. Make sure your bread is securely attached to your fork to avoid losing it in the pot, which can lead to forfeits or penalties.

Choose the Right Beverage

It is recommended to pair fondue only with white wine, kirsch (a cherry brandy), or an herbal tisane. According to Swiss lore, drinking water, juice, or beer with fondue will cause the cheese to form a giant ball in your stomach, leading to indigestion. However, some people prefer a medium-bodied red wine with their fondue.

Enjoy the Crust

The crusty, browned cheese at the bottom of the fondue pot is called "la religieuse" or "the nun." It is considered a delicacy and is often scraped off and shared among the diners.

Be Mindful of Your Company

If you are ill, it is polite to refrain from partaking in the fondue and order something else instead. Additionally, if you are the host, be mindful of your guests' dietary restrictions and preferences to ensure everyone can enjoy the fondue.

Where to eat fondue in Switzerland

Fondue is a Swiss dish that consists of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. It is typically eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks into the cheese using long-stemmed forks. Although there are several variations, the traditional Swiss cheeses used for making fondue are mainly Emmental and Gruyère.

Chäsalp, Zurich

Chäsalp is a local favourite for fondue and raclette. Set in a former stable at a farm above Zurich, this atmospheric restaurant offers more than 15 fondue options to choose from, including the classic moitié-moitié (half-and-half) made with Gruyère and Fribourg-style Vacherin. Enjoy your fondue with a glass of wine while taking in the beautiful views of Lake Zurich.

Swiss Chuchi, Zurich

Located in the Hotel Adler in the centre of Niederdorf, Swiss Chuchi serves Swiss specialties including cheese and meat fondues. The restaurant's rustic atmosphere, with wood-panelled walls and a life-size cow overlooking the dining area, adds to the overall experience. Their Adler House Blend fondue, made with four kinds of aged cheeses, is a popular choice.

Fribourger Fonduestübli, Zurich

This cosy restaurant, located at the edge of town, is a favourite among both tourists and locals. The strong smell of cheese greets you as you enter the dining room, which is decorated in a rustic style. The house specialties include Fribourger cheese fondue and moitié-moitié, a dual blend of Gruyère and Vacherin. The restaurant also offers a wide selection of fantastic wines, and you can end your meal with a shot of fruity brandy called kirch.

Le Gruyérien, Geneva

Located 12 miles outside the city centre of Geneva, Le Gruyérien offers a homey and laid-back atmosphere with traditional chalet-style decor. Their fondus options include the traditional moitié-moitié, a light vacherin fribourgeois, and a 100% chèvre (goat cheese) variation. They also offer special variations such as fondue with porcini mushrooms or tomato fondue served with boiled potatoes instead of bread.

La Buvette des Bains, Geneva

La Buvette des Bains is a unique restaurant located on the iconic Lac Leman. It is housed in a former public bathhouse that was once part of the Bains de Paquis, Lake Geneva's natural swimming area. The restaurant offers stunning views of the lake and the famous Jet d'Eau fountain. Their specialty fondue, made with Vacherin cheese and sparkling wine, has a delicate fruity taste.

Café du Soleil, Geneva

Café du Soleil is one of Geneva's oldest restaurants and is highly popular with the locals. It is known for its delicious, generous portions of authentic Swiss fondue made with cheese from La Rocha, a medieval village north of Gruyères. The friendly atmosphere and the chance to enjoy fondue near the Palace des Nations, the U.N.'s European headquarters, make this restaurant a must-visit.

Frequently asked questions