A Steamy Affair: Hot Pot's Surprising Victorian England History

During the Victorian era, the term hot pot was used to refer to a hot drink made of ale and spirits or sweetened spiced ale. The term was also used to describe a meat stew, such as Lancashire hotpot, which was a popular dish among cotton workers in the North of England. This dish consisted of lamb or mutton and onion, topped with sliced potatoes and slowly baked in a pot at a low heat. It was left to cook slowly throughout the day, ready for workers returning home from their shift.

Over time, the term hot pot has evolved to refer to a variety of dishes beyond the stews of Victorian England. In modern times, hot pot is often associated with a communal dining experience, where a pot of broth is placed on the table and diners cook a variety of raw ingredients such as meat, seafood, and vegetables in the simmering broth. This style of hot pot is particularly popular in East and Southeast Asian cuisines, with regional variations in China, Japan, Korea, and Vietnam.

The evolution of hot pot from a hot drink to a stew

The history of hot pot can be traced back to the Mongolian Empire, which introduced a simple broth served with horse meat and mutton to East Asia thousands of years ago. The dish was supposedly eaten on-the-go by Mongolian soldiers, who would use their helmets as bowls.

Over time, the hot pot spread across Northern China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam, evolving into myriad forms. One of the earliest prototypes of the hot pot is believed to be the tripods of the Zhou dynasty, where nobility dined on personal bronze pots called ran lu, consisting of a small stove with a pot above burning charcoal.

In the Qing dynasty, hot pot became popular among emperors, particularly the Qianlong Emperor, who was very fond of the dish and would eat it almost every meal. The dish was also enjoyed by the Jiaqing Emperor, who had a banquet with 1,550 hot pots at his coronation, and Empress Dowager Cixi, who favoured it during the winter season.

The term "hot pot" was initially used to refer to a hot drink—a mixture of ale and spirits, or sweetened spiced ale—in the 17th century. The earliest use of the term to mean a meat stew was in the Liverpool Telegraph in 1836, and the dish was cited as being served in Liverpool in 1842 by the Oxford English Dictionary (OED).

Today, hot pot is a beloved dish in many parts of the world, with numerous variations in China, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, the Philippines, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom, where it is commonly associated with Lancashire.

Regional variations of hot pot

The hot pot scene in Victorian England was likely influenced by the dish's long history in East and Southeast Asian cuisine, particularly in China. While there are many regional variations of hot pot, this answer will focus on the differences in ingredients, flavours, and cooking methods across various regions in China.

Southern Style vs. Northern Style

Chinese hot pots are often divided into "Southern style" and "Northern style", with Southern styles tending to have spicy broths and complex dipping sauces, heavy on seafood, vegetables, and mushrooms. Northern styles, on the other hand, are simpler and focus more on meat, particularly mutton.

Regional Variations in China

• Chongqing Hot Pot: One of the most famous Southern variations, Chongqing hot pot uses mala seasoning flavoured with chilli peppers and Sichuan pepper for a spicy and numbing taste. Chongqing hotpots often feature a wide variety of meats and ingredients, and offer many sauces and condiments to flavour the meat.
• Hubei Hot Pot: In Hubei cuisine, hot pot is typically prepared with hot spices and Sichuan pepper. Ingredients include mushrooms, thinly sliced beef or lamb, lettuce, and various other green vegetables.
• Yunnan Hot Pot: In Yunnan, there is a predominant type of hot pot made with various wild or farmed mushrooms. It is called the Wild Mushroom hot pot. The big difference between the mushroom hot pot and the spicy hot pot is that the former omits strong spices and chilli, preserving the original flavour of the mushrooms.
• Cantonese Hot Pot: A Cantonese variation includes mixing a raw egg with the condiments to reduce the amount of "heat" absorbed by the food, thereby reducing the likelihood of a sore throat after the meal.
• Hainan Hot Pot: In Hainan cuisine, hot pot is generally served with pieces of partially cooked meat, which require approximately 15 minutes to finish cooking. Ingredients include mushrooms, thinly sliced beef or goat meat, lettuce, and other green vegetables. Coconut milk and juice are commonly added to the hot pot.
• Jiangsu and Zhejiang Hot Pot: In Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine, chrysanthemum flowers are cooked in the broth to give it a floral essence.
• Manchu Hot Pot: The Manchu hot pot uses plenty of suan cai (Chinese sauerkraut) to make the broth sour.

These regional variations in China showcase the versatility and customisability of hot pot, with different combinations of ingredients, flavours, and cooking methods to suit different tastes and preferences.

The role of women in Victorian dining

While there is no information about the hot pot scene in Victorian England, the role of women in Victorian dining was multifaceted and complex. The era's dining customs were highly elaborate and dictated specific attire for each meal, with the most splendid attire reserved for dinner. Middle and upper-class women were expected to preside over family meals and host elaborate dinner parties, elevating what was once a mundane task into an artful experience. They were also responsible for preparing meals, which often involved creating complicated dishes with multiple courses.

During this time, women's rights were extremely limited, and they faced many inequalities within marriages and society. They lost ownership of their wages and property upon marriage and were restricted to the domestic sphere, with their roles confined to maintaining a clean home, preparing meals, and raising children. Despite these restrictions, some women, like Elizabeth Robins Pennell, challenged traditional gender norms and encouraged women to pursue creative expression in the kitchen, recasting cooking as a valuable art form.

The emergence of complicated dishes and the elevation of dining into an art form led to the need for cooks and servants who were well-versed in French and Italian cookbooks. This was especially true in wealthy households, where dining customs were more elaborate and extravagant. However, middle and upper-class women also began to prepare complicated dishes themselves, showcasing their culinary creativity and impressing their family members and guests.

In summary, while the role of women in Victorian dining was largely confined to the domestic sphere, some women challenged traditional gender norms and sought to express their creativity in the kitchen. The elaborate dining customs of the time also provided an opportunity for middle and upper-class women to showcase their culinary skills and artistic sensibilities, transforming what was once a mundane task into a prestigious endeavour.

The emergence of tea as a feminine, domestic ritual

The hot pot scene in Victorian England was quite different from what we know today. In the 17th century, the term "hot pot" or "hotpot" referred not to a stew but to a hot drink—a mixture of ale and spirits, or sweetened spiced ale. Over time, the term evolved to refer to a meat stew, with early mentions of the dish appearing in the 19th century.

During the Victorian era, Lancashire hotpot, a stew originating from the North West of England, became a popular dish. It consisted of lamb or mutton and onion, topped with sliced potatoes and slowly baked in a pot at a low heat. The dish is believed to have originated during the cotton industry in the 19th century, providing a hearty meal for cotton workers.

Now, let's explore the emergence of tea as a feminine, domestic ritual in Victorian England:

For women of the upper and middle classes, the ritual of tea provided an opportunity to showcase their domestic skills and knowledge of etiquette. It was considered an important aspect of a well-run household, and hostesses took great pride in presenting an elegant spread of dainty sandwiches, scones, cakes, and, of course, a perfectly brewed pot of tea. The ritual of tea also extended beyond the home, as women would often attend tea rooms and tea shops to socialize and indulge in the latest tea blends and pastries.

The domestic ritual of tea was not limited to the wealthy, as women of all social classes participated in this tradition. While the spread may have been simpler, the act of sharing a cup of tea and a few treats was a way for women to connect and find solace in their daily lives. Tea became such an integral part of Victorian culture that it inspired the creation of new businesses, including tea shops, teapot manufacturers, and companies producing biscuits, cakes, and other tea-time treats.

The association of tea with femininity and domesticity was so strong that it became a defining aspect of Victorian womanhood. It was seen as a civilizing influence, promoting refinement and proper behavior. The ritual of tea provided a space for women to exercise their influence and contribute to the cultural fabric of Victorian society.

In conclusion, the emergence of tea as a feminine, domestic ritual in Victorian England shaped social dynamics and contributed to the cultural landscape of the time. It offered women a space for connection, socialization, and the demonstration of their domestic skills. The legacy of this tradition can still be seen today, as afternoon tea remains a beloved custom in many parts of the world, paying homage to the enduring appeal of this Victorian ritual.

The technology of Victorian stoves and cookers

The Victorian era saw the advent of many new kitchen technologies, including the stove, which was invented by Benjamin Thompson (also known as the Reichs­graf von Rum­ford) in the late 18th century. The earliest "open-range" stoves featured an iron box with an open top, and a central fire compartment that heated an oven and water tank on either side. These stoves were highly inefficient, requiring large amounts of fuel and making the kitchen very hot.

In the 1840s, the "closed range" stove was introduced. This stove featured an iron plate covering the top, with rings for pots and pans, and a flue to direct smoke to the chimney. These closed ranges were more efficient, requiring less fuel, and were popular in Britain, where they were installed in older houses. However, in the US, stand-alone iron stoves were preferred for new houses.

In the 1850s, iron cookstoves with four to six "boiling holes" became a common feature in American middle-class homes. Many of these stoves had multiple ovens and a reservoir for heated water. By the end of the Victorian era, stove manufacturers began to enamel their stoves, which made them easier to clean.

The type of stove a Victorian household had often depended on their social status. Middle and upper-class families tended to have closed ranges, which were more expensive and efficient. These ranges had a concealed grate, allowing less heat to escape into the room and more heat to circulate around the oven. They also came with matching accessories and were made by well-known companies such as Flavels, Coalbrookdale, and Carron.

Wealthier households could also afford to have multiple ovens. In contrast, more modest houses often had standard open ranges, which were cheaper and provided a good heat source. These ranges had a wider grate to make up for their heat inefficiency. The cheapest option was the "Yorkshire" range, often found in kitchens in poorer homes. These ranges tended to be more decorative and usually had two ovens, as they were very small.

The technology and availability of servants were the main reasons for the decline of cast-iron ranges. In the early 20th century, gas ovens became widely available and affordable, providing instant heat and less mess. Gas stoves also eliminated the dreaded weekly task of "blacking" or cleaning the stove, which was one of the dirtiest and most despised jobs in the home.

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