The Melty History Of Fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish, originating in the 18th century as a way for farm families to make the most of limited resources during the winter months. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, which describes how to cook cheese with wine. However, the name cheese fondue referred to a dish of eggs and cheese until the late 19th century. The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue, with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published in 1875. Fondue was promoted as a Swiss national dish by the Swiss Cheese Union in the 1930s and was introduced to America at the 1964 New York World's Fair.

The origins of fondue

However, the name "cheese fondue" originally referred to a dish of eggs and cheese, as mentioned in Vincent La Chapelle's 1735 cookbook, "Cuisinier moderne". It was described as a mix between scrambled eggs and a cheese souffle, with Brillat-Savarin writing in 1834 that it was "nothing other than scrambled eggs with cheese".

The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue, with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published in 1875, and was already presented as a Swiss national dish. Despite its modern associations with rustic mountain life, it was originally a dish of the wealthy townspeople of the lowlands of western, French-speaking Switzerland. Rich cheese like Gruyère was an expensive export item that peasants could not afford to eat.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) began promoting fondue as the Swiss national dish as a way of increasing cheese consumption. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union continued its marketing campaign, sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across Switzerland. Fondue became a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

Fondue was introduced to America at the 1964 New York World's Fair, when it was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant. It became popular in the US in the 1960s and 1970s, along with other foods made in chafing dishes.

The Swiss Cheese Union

After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union resumed its efforts, sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organizers across the country. They also created catchy slogans like "La fondue crée la bonne humeur" ("fondue creates a good mood") to further boost the popularity of the dish.

The Union's efforts to promote fondue extended beyond Switzerland's borders. In 1964, fondue made its debut in America at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant during the New York World's Fair. This introduction to the world's largest cheese market paved the way for fondue's popularity in the United States and beyond.

How to make fondue

Fondue, derived from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", was created in 18th-century Switzerland as a way to use hardened cheese and stale bread during the winter months. The first written recipes for fondue were published in 18th-century cookbooks from France and Belgium, but they used Gruyère, a Swiss cheese, so the Swiss are credited as the originators of this delicious dish.

Now, let's get into how to make fondue!

Ingredients

• Good-quality cheese (Gruyère, Swiss, Gouda, Fontina, Emmental, Raclette, Vacherin, Appenzeller, Comté, Cheddar, etc.)
• Cornstarch or flour
• Dry, high-acid white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, or an unoaked Chardonnay)
• Bread, meat, potatoes, sliced fruit (apples, strawberries, bananas, etc.), vegetables (cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, bell peppers, etc.), crackers, chips, or pretzels for dipping
• Optional: garlic, lemon juice, mustard, nutmeg, paprika, cayenne, herbs, or brandy/cognac/Kirsch for added flavour

Instructions

• Grate the cheese. Grated cheese melts faster and more evenly than chopped cheese, resulting in a smoother fondue.
• Toss the grated cheese with cornstarch or flour. This helps thicken the fondue and prevents the cheese from clumping.
• Bring your chosen liquid (wine, chicken/vegetable stock, or a combination) to a simmer in a fondue pot or large heavy saucepan. If using garlic, rub the inside of the pot with a clove of garlic before adding the liquid.
• Add the cheese to the simmering liquid a little at a time, stirring well between each addition to ensure a smooth fondue.
• Once the cheese is melted, add your choice of seasonings and flavourings, such as mustard, nutmeg, lemon juice, brandy, or cognac.
• Serve with an assortment of bite-sized dipping foods on a platter. If needed, carefully pour the fondue into a fondue pot and place a small candle or heat source underneath to keep it warm and melted.
• Provide fondue forks or wooden skewers for your guests to use.

Enjoy your fondue night and don't forget to scrape the crusty slab of cheese, called "le religieuse" or "religieuse", at the bottom of the pot—it's considered a delicacy!

Fondue traditions and customs

Fondue is considered a winter meal in Switzerland, a hearty comfort food to be enjoyed family-style. It is traditionally made and served in an earthenware pot known as a caquelon, which heats evenly and retains heat so the meal can be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. The caquelon is rubbed with a cut garlic clove, and white wine is added and heated with cornstarch. Grated cheese is then added and gently stirred until melted. Fondue is typically made with a blend of cheeses, wine, and seasoning, although there are many variations, such as using beer instead of wine or adding ingredients like garlic, mountain herbs, paprika, cayenne, nutmeg, and mustard.

Diners skewer cubes of bread into the bubbling cheese and swirl them for a few seconds to coat. It is important not to soak the bread for too long, or it will disintegrate in the pot. Losing your bread in the pot is considered bad form and may result in penalties such as washing the dishes, kissing everyone at the table, or buying a round of drinks. Instead of mopping up the last bit of melted cheese from the bottom of the pot, diners let the flame continue to cook the cheese until a dark crust forms. This crust, called le religieuse or la religieuse, is reverentially chipped away and shared among the guests at the end of the meal. It is considered a delicacy.

Fondue is enjoyed in homes and restaurants throughout Switzerland, particularly in traditional or rural areas in both French- and German-speaking regions. It is rarely served in elegant restaurants, as the aroma can be overpowering. There is no standard recipe or single type of cheese that is universally favoured for Swiss cheese fondue. The most common combination is moitié-moitié or "half-half", a blend of Gruyère and Vacherin Fribougeois. However, in eastern Switzerland, it is common to mix Gruyère with an aromatic Appenzeller, while in Valais, it is often blended with Raclette. In canton Bern, Emmentaler is the cheese of choice.

Accompaniments to fondue often include potatoes, cornichon, and pickled pearl onions, and beverages such as white wine, tea, or a glass of kirsch. Although locals consider fondue a main course, it can also be enjoyed as an entree or appetizer.

Fondue's introduction to America

Fondue, a Swiss dish, was introduced to America in 1964 at the New York World's Fair, where it was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant. At the time, America was the world's largest cheese market, but fondue was unknown there.

The Swiss have a long history of enjoying fondue, which is typically made with melted cheese and wine, served in a communal pot and eaten by dipping in bread. The word 'fondue' comes from the French verb 'fondre', meaning 'to melt'. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" ('to cook cheese with wine'). However, the name "cheese fondue" originally referred to a dish composed of eggs and cheese, as mentioned in Vincent La Chapelle's 1735 cookbook, 'Cuisinier moderne'. The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue under that name, with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published in 1875.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) began promoting fondue as Switzerland's national dish as a way to increase cheese consumption. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union resumed its campaign, sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across Switzerland. Fondue became a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

When it was introduced to America in 1964, fondue became popular in the United States, along with other foods made in chafing dishes. The Swiss restaurateur Konrad Egli introduced fondue bourguignonne at his Chalet Suisse restaurant in New York in 1956, and in the mid-1960s, he invented chocolate fondue as part of a promotion for Toblerone chocolate. The extension of the name "fondue" to other dishes served in a communal hot pot also dates to 1950s New York.

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