Fondue's Golden Age: When Was It Most Popular?

Fondue, a Swiss dish, was most popular in the 1960s and 1970s. It was introduced to the world at the 1964 World Fair in New York, where it was served at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant. Fondue is typically made with melted cheese and wine, served in a communal pot and eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or meat into the cheese. The Swiss Cheese Union popularised the dish in the 1930s as a way to increase cheese consumption in Switzerland, and it soon became a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

The Swiss Cheese Union's role in popularising fondue

The popularity of fondue was no accident. It was masterminded by the Swiss Cheese Union, a cartel of Swiss cheese makers that ruled the Swiss economy for over 80 years.

The Swiss Cheese Union was formed after the First World War, when Switzerland found itself with a surplus of cheese. In an effort to combat this slump in exports, cheese producers were determined to develop strict non-compete guidelines, establishing a cartel that became known as the Swiss Cheese Union. The union set the price of milk, limited production, and restricted the kind of cheeses that could be made in Switzerland.

By the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union's success in controlling production had led to a new problem: overproduction of cheese in a saturated, stagnant market. The solution? Fondue. The Swiss Cheese Union launched intensive campaigns to promote cheese fondue, which was until then only known in the French-speaking part of Switzerland. They marketed fondue as an Alpine specialty steeped in tradition, using iconography known around the world to promote the dish. They drew on a recipe that required large amounts of Swiss cheese, invoking Heidi to underline the wholesomeness and authenticity of the Swiss dish. Posters showcasing rain or snow as “fondue weather” reinforced the notion that fondue delivers a feeling of warmth.

In the 1950s and 1960s, the Swiss Cheese Union decided it wasn't enough to control the supply. They also wanted to boost demand and get people to eat more Swiss cheese. They launched aggressive ad campaigns featuring good-looking Swiss people in ski sweaters partying over pots of fondue. Fondue became a huge hit, in Switzerland and beyond. It transformed the dish from an alpine delicacy to a Swiss national dish, a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

By the late 1990s, amid allegations of corruption and concerns over the high costs of cheese subsidies, the Swiss Cheese Union collapsed. However, the popularity of fondue endured, and it remains a beloved dish in Switzerland and around the world.

Fondue's introduction to the US

Fondue was introduced to the US in 1964 at the New York World's Fair, where it was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant. This Swiss dish, originating in the 18th century, was popularised in the US in the 1950s, with fondue restaurants opening in New York and other cities. In the 1960s, home fondue sets became all the rage, with kitchenware stores selling "fondue party kits" and manufacturers producing popular models. The 1970s saw a peak in fondue's popularity, with cheeses like Gruyere and Emmenthaler becoming more common in American groceries, and people experimenting with various dipping ingredients. Fondue parties became a fun and communal way to enjoy a meal, with little preparation required. The popularity of fondue in the US saw several resurgences, including in the 1990s, the 2010s, and with the wave of '70s nostalgia.

The history of fondue

Fondue, from the French "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in 18th-century Switzerland. It was a way for farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the winter months. By melting their remaining cheese and dipping stale bread into it, they could enjoy a hearty meal. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of fondue, which calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine and dipped with bread, comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich.

However, the term "fondue" was first used in 1735 to refer to a dish composed of eggs and cheese, as mentioned in Vincent La Chapelle's 1735 cookbook, "Cuisinier moderne". It was described as a mix between scrambled eggs and a cheese soufflé. In the 1830s, Brillat-Savarin wrote that fondue was "nothing other than scrambled eggs with cheese". It was only in 1875 that the first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue under that name, with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) popularised fondue as a Swiss national dish to increase cheese consumption. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union continued its campaign, promoting fondue as a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity. Fondue was even included in Swiss military cookbooks and sent to military regiments across the country.

Fondue was introduced to the United States in 1964 at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the New York World's Fair. It quickly gained popularity, along with other foods made in chafing dishes. Konrad Egli, a Swiss restaurateur, introduced fondue bourguignonne (fondue with hot oil and meat instead of cheese and bread) at his Chalet Suisse restaurant in New York in 1956. A few years later, he invented chocolate fondue as part of a promotion for Toblerone chocolate.

Today, fondue remains a popular dish in Switzerland, especially in traditional or rural areas. It is typically enjoyed as a winter meal and served in an earthenware pot known as a caquelon. While there is no standard recipe, Swiss fondue typically includes a blend of cheeses, such as Emmentaler, Vacherin, and Gruyère, melted with wine and seasoned with garlic, herbs, and spices.

Fondue's global popularity

Fondue, from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in 18th-century Switzerland. It was a winter meal for farm families to stretch their limited resources by melting leftover cheese and dipping stale bread into it. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of fondue, which calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine and dipped with bread, was published in a 1699 book from Zurich. However, the name "cheese fondue" referred to a dish with eggs and cheese until the late 19th century. The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue, without eggs, was published in 1875.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) popularized fondue as a Swiss national dish to increase cheese consumption. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union continued its marketing campaign, sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across Switzerland. Fondue became a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

Fondue was introduced to the United States, the world's largest cheese market, in 1964 at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the New York World's Fair. It gained popularity in the US during the 1960s and 1970s, along with other foods made in chafing dishes. Konrad Egli, a Swiss restaurateur, introduced fondue bourguignonne (fondue with hot oil and meat chunks) at his Chalet Suisse restaurant in 1956. He also invented chocolate fondue in the mid-1960s as part of a promotion for Toblerone chocolate.

Today, fondue-like dishes are enjoyed worldwide, with variations in China, Japan, Mexico, Italy, and other countries. Fondue has become a global phenomenon, bringing people together to enjoy a communal pot of melted cheese, chocolate, or other creative combinations.

How to make fondue

Fondue became popular in the US in the 1960s and 1970s, but its origins date back to the 18th century, when farm families in Switzerland would stretch their limited resources during the winter by melting leftover cheese and dipping stale bread into it. The first written recipes for fondue appeared in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, but they called for a Swiss cheese—Gruyère. Fondue was popularized as a Swiss national dish in the 1930s by the Swiss Cheese Union, which aimed to increase cheese consumption in Switzerland.

Now, here's how you can make your own fondue at home:

Ingredients:

• Good-quality cheese (Gruyère, Swiss, fontina, gouda, Comté, Emmentaler, raclette, or vacherin)
• Cornstarch
• Dry white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, or an unoaked Chardonnay)
• Garlic
• Lemon juice
• Mustard
• Bread, vegetables, meat, or fruit for dipping

Instructions:

• Grate the cheese: Using a grater or food processor, grate the cheese into a medium-sized bowl. This will ensure quicker melting and a smoother fondue.
• Toss cheese with cornstarch: In the bowl, toss the grated cheese with cornstarch, making sure to coat all the pieces thoroughly. The cornstarch will help thicken the fondue and prevent the cheese from clumping.
• Simmer wine and garlic: In a stove-safe fondue pot or large saucepan, bring the wine and garlic to a simmer over medium-low heat. You can also add a little lemon juice to keep the fondue smooth.
• Add cheese gradually: Add the cheese to the simmering liquid a little at a time, stirring well between each addition to ensure a smooth fondue. Continue stirring constantly and wait for each addition to melt before adding more cheese.
• Season and serve: Once the cheese is melted and smooth, stir in seasonings like mustard, nutmeg, or paprika. Transfer the fondue to a fondue pot and serve with an assortment of bite-sized dippers like cubed bread, boiled baby potatoes, steamed vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus), sliced apples, or cooked meat.

Tips:

• If your fondue becomes too thick, add a little more white wine to thin it out.
• If your fondue tastes a little bland, add some Dijon mustard or lemon juice to brighten up the flavor.
• If you don't want to use wine, you can substitute it with chicken or vegetable stock, or a mixture of chicken broth and lemon juice or vinegar.
• For an extra kick of flavor, stir in a tablespoon of brandy, cognac, Kirsch, or cherry brandy.
• To store leftovers, refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze in an airtight container for up to 2 months.

Frequently asked questions