The Melty History Of French Fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish that consists of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zürich, under the name Käss mit Wein zu kochen ('to cook cheese with wine'). The first written recipes for fondue appear in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, however, they call for Gruyère, a Swiss cheese, so the Swiss are rightfully credited as the originators of fondue. The Swiss Cheese Union declared it the country's national dish in 1930.

The first written recipes for fondue

The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zürich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "to cook cheese with wine". The recipe instructs the reader to grate or cut up cheese, melt it with wine, and dip bread into it. However, until the late 19th century, the name "cheese fondue" referred to a dish composed of eggs and cheese, as in Vincent La Chapelle's 1735 recipe "Fonduë de Fromage, aux Truffes Fraiches", which was similar to scrambled eggs with cheese.

The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue under the name "fondue", with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published in 1875 and was presented as a Swiss national dish. The introduction of corn starch to Switzerland in 1905 made it easier to create a smooth and stable emulsion of wine and cheese, likely contributing to the success of fondue.

How fondue became a Swiss winter tradition

Fondue, from the French "fondre", meaning "to melt", began in Switzerland in the 18th century. It was a way for families with limited access to fresh food during the winter months to make use of stale bread and aged cheese. Heating the cheese with wine, garlic, and herbs, and dipping the stale bread into this mixture softened it and made it more palatable. This method of cooking and eating together over one pot by a warm fire became a Swiss winter tradition.

The first written recipes for fondue appear in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, but they call for Gruyère, a Swiss cheese. The Swiss, therefore, are credited as the originators of fondue. Fondue was not limited to the farmhouse and the peasant class; it was more frequently enjoyed by people of means. In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union popularised fondue as part of a campaign to increase cheese consumption in Switzerland. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union resumed its campaign, promoting fondue as the Swiss national dish and a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

Fondue is now considered a winter meal in Switzerland, a comforting one-pot dish to be enjoyed family-style. It is traditionally made and served in an earthenware pot called a caquelon, which heats evenly and retains heat so the meal can be enjoyed for longer. Diners skewer cubes of bread, dip and swirl them in the bubbling cheese, and eat. Losing your bread in the pot is frowned upon, and the Swiss will jokingly assign a penalty, such as washing the dishes.

There is no standard recipe for Swiss fondue, nor is there a single type of cheese that is universally favoured. One popular version is an equal blend of Gruyère and Vacherin Fribougeois, known as "moitiè-moitiè" or "half-half". In eastern Switzerland, it's more likely to be Gruyère mixed with an aromatic Appenzeller. In Valais, it's usually a blend of Gruyère and Raclette, while in canton Bern, Emmentaler is the cheese of choice.

The Swiss Cheese Union's role in popularising fondue

The Swiss Cheese Union played a pivotal role in popularising fondue and establishing it as a beloved Swiss national dish. The union's efforts not only helped to standardise and promote the recipe but also to market Swiss cheese internationally, ensuring fondue's enduring association with Swiss culture and cuisine.

Fondue has its origins in Switzerland, where it was a simple meal eaten by farmers and peasants, who would melt cheese to preserve it and make it go further. Over time, this dish became popular across all social classes, and by the 19th century, it was considered a Swiss national dish. However, it was the Swiss Cheese Union, formed in the early 20th century, that truly elevated fondue to iconic status.

The union was established to promote Swiss cheese and support the country's dairy industry. One of its key objectives was to standardise cheese production and create a consistent product for export. By doing so, they aimed to improve the reputation of Swiss cheese, which had suffered due to inconsistent quality and a lack of standardisation. The union encouraged the use of modern production techniques and strict quality controls, ensuring that Swiss cheese could compete on the global market.

To achieve this goal, the union needed a dish that would showcase Swiss cheese at its best—and fondue was the perfect candidate. The Swiss Cheese Union promoted a standardised recipe for fondue, ensuring that the dish highlighted the unique qualities of Swiss cheese. They marketed fondue as a delicious, social dining experience, positioning it as an essential part of Swiss culture and hospitality. This strategy helped to create a strong association between Swiss cheese and fondue, benefiting both the dish and the country's dairy industry.

The union's efforts extended beyond Switzerland's borders. They actively marketed Swiss cheese and fondue internationally, particularly in neighbouring France and other European countries. This included advertising campaigns, participation in food exhibitions, and the distribution of fondue recipes and promotional materials. The Swiss Cheese Union also encouraged the use of Swiss cheese in fine dining, partnering with renowned chefs to create sophisticated fondue recipes that showcased the versatility and quality of their product.

As a result of the Swiss Cheese Union's efforts, fondue became synonymous with Swiss culture and hospitality. It gained popularity not just in Switzerland but also internationally, with tourists returning home and recreating the delicious, social dining experience they had enjoyed in Switzerland. The union's successful marketing of Swiss cheese and fondue helped to establish the dish as an iconic symbol of Switzerland, ensuring its enduring popularity and influence on global cuisine.

The origins of meat fondue

Meat fondue, or Fondue Bourguignonne, is a variation of the traditional Swiss cheese fondue. It features hot oil instead of cheese, and chunks of meat in place of bread. The meat, skewered on a long fork, is immersed in the hot oil and cooked. It is served with an assortment of dipping sauces such as Béarnaise, aioli, and horseradish sauce. Vegetables and seafood are also sometimes served with hot oil fondue.

In addition to Fondue Bourguignonne, there are other variations of fondue that have been inspired by different cultures around the world. For example, in China, there is a similar dish called Hot Pot, and in Japan, there is shabu-shabu, where diners cook chunks of meat, seafood, or vegetables in a communal pot of bubbling oil or steaming broth.

While cheese fondue may be the most well-known type of fondue, meat fondue offers a delicious and unique twist on this classic dish.

The origins of chocolate fondue

Chocolate fondue is a variation of the traditional Swiss cheese fondue, which originated in the 18th century in Switzerland. During the cold winter months, Swiss villagers would melt aged cheese with wine, garlic, and herbs, and dip stale bread into the mixture. This method softened the bread and made it more palatable. The tradition of cooking and eating together over a warm fire became a Swiss winter staple, known as fondue. The term "fondue" comes from the French word "fondre," which means "to melt."

The first written recipes for cheese fondue appeared in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, featuring Gruyère, a Swiss cheese. In the late 17th century, a Swiss cookbook, "Kochbuch der Anna Margaretha Gessner," mentioned cooking cheese with wine. Modern fondue, with melted cheese and wine set in a pot over an open flame, dates back to the late 1800s, with roots in the French Rhône-Alpes region near the Geneva border.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) promoted fondue as Switzerland's national dish to increase cheese consumption. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union continued its campaign, solidifying fondue as a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity. Fondue was introduced to America at the 1964 New York World's Fair, featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant.

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