Fondue's Origin Story: A Swiss Tale Of Melty Cheese

Fondue is a Swiss dish typically consisting of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name Käss mit Wein zu kochen or to cook cheese with wine. The Swiss Cheese Union popularised fondue as Switzerland's national dish in the 1930s, and it was further promoted at the 1964 New York World's Fair.

The first fondue recipe

Fondue, derived from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", is a Swiss dish that was first mentioned in writing in 1735, in Vincent La Chapelle's Cuisinier moderne. However, the earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue, with cheese and wine but no eggs, dates back to 1699. The recipe, published in Zurich under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "to cook cheese with wine", calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it.

The original version of fondue was created out of necessity as a way to feed families inexpensively during the winter months when access to fresh food was limited. It was made with stale bread dipped in melted cheese, typically Gruyère, a Swiss cheese. Over time, the recipe evolved to include additional ingredients such as wine, garlic, and herbs.

In the 18th century, fondue became a Swiss winter tradition, with families gathering around the hearth to enjoy this comforting meal. It was also during this time that the first written recipes for fondue appeared in cookbooks published in France and Belgium, further spreading the popularity of this dish.

While fondue may have originated in rural areas, it was not limited to the farmhouse or the peasant class. It was frequently enjoyed by people of means and became a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity. In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) popularized fondue as the Swiss national dish as part of a campaign to increase cheese consumption. They also created pseudo-regional recipes as part of the "spiritual defence of Switzerland".

Fondue gained international recognition in 1964 when it was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the New York World's Fair. It became a popular dish in the United States during the 1960s and 1970s, along with other foods made in chafing dishes.

Today, fondue remains a beloved Swiss tradition and a symbol of Swiss culture and cuisine. It is typically made with a blend of cheeses, such as Gruyère, Vacherin Fribougeois, Appenzeller, or Raclette, and seasoned with wine, garlic, and various herbs and spices. It is served in a communal pot, known as a caquelon or fondue pot, and eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks into the melted cheese using long-stemmed forks.

Swiss Cheese Union

The Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) played a pivotal role in popularising fondue as Switzerland's national dish in the 1930s. This campaign was aimed at increasing cheese consumption in Switzerland and promoting national unity. The Swiss Cheese Union chose fondue, a dish with roots in the country's rural farming communities, as a symbol of Swiss identity. Fondue was an ideal choice, as it embodied the country's largely mountainous Alpine climate and the heartiness of its cuisine.

The Swiss Cheese Union's marketing strategy was multi-faceted and aggressive. They created catchy slogans like "La fondue crée la bonne humeur" ("fondue creates a good mood") and distributed fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across Switzerland. They also invented pseudo-regional recipes as part of the "spiritual defence of Switzerland". This campaign effectively embedded fondue into Swiss culture, making it a beloved tradition that continues to symbolise Swiss unity.

The history of the Swiss Cheese Union's involvement with fondue goes back to the early 20th century. The first written recipes for fondue, which called for melting cheese with wine, date back to the 17th and 18th centuries. However, these early recipes were not universally popular, with some comparing them to scrambled eggs with cheese. It wasn't until the late 19th century that the modern recipe for fondue, without eggs, was written down in the French Rhône-Alpes region near the Swiss border.

The Swiss Cheese Union capitalised on this evolving dish and promoted it as a national symbol in the 1930s. After World War II, when rationing ended, they resumed their campaign with renewed vigour, positioning fondue as an integral part of Swiss culture and cuisine. The Swiss Cheese Union's efforts were so successful that fondue became synonymous with Switzerland, and it remains a beloved tradition to this day.

Fondue Bourguignonne

Fondue, from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in Switzerland in the 18th century. It was a way for farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the winter months. They would heat cheese with wine, garlic, and herbs and dip their stale bread into the mixture, softening it and creating a delicious meal. This tradition of cooking and eating together over one pot by a warm fire became a Swiss winter tradition known as fondue.

One type of fondue is Fondue Bourguignonne, which translates to Burgundy Fondue, likely due to its origins in the French region of Burgundy. In the Middle Ages, vineyard workers in Burgundy had to spend all day in the fields and couldn't come inside for meals. The solution was to have a pot of boiling oil in the vineyard, where workers could cook pieces of meat during their breaks. This method of cooking meat in hot oil or broth is known as Fondue Bourguignonne.

The Swiss version of Fondue Bourguignonne is also very popular in France and parts of Piedmont. The preparation technique is similar to the traditional cheese fondue, using a caquelon (a saucepan with a small stove at the base) and arranging cubes of raw meat and vegetables around it. The raw meat can include beef, chicken, or lamb, and the vegetables can be potatoes, carrots, courgettes, celery, or fennel, among others. The food is skewered and then cooked in boiling oil inside the caquelon, and various sauces and aromatic herbs are used to enhance the flavours.

Chocolate fondue

The exact origin of chocolate fondue is not known, but it is believed to have originated in the mid-20th century in the United States. Credit has been given to Chef Konrad Elgi of New York's Chalet Swiss restaurant who, in 1952, created the bourguignon variation of fondue (beef cubes cooked in hot oil) and, in 1964, subsequently developed the chocolate variation as a dessert fondue. Credit has also been given to the Madison Avenue marketing efforts on behalf of Toblerone Swiss Chocolate in the 1950s.

The Mayans could also claim credit for inventing chocolate fondue, as chocolate was first served in their pots as a thick, dense drink over 2,500 years ago.

The best Swiss fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish that consists of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. It was first popularised as a Swiss national dish in the 1930s by the Swiss Cheese Union to increase cheese consumption. It is typically served with bread, vegetables, or other snacks.

To make the best Swiss fondue, you will need the following ingredients:

• A mix of traditional, firm mountain-style Swiss cheeses such as Gruyere, Emmentaler, Appenzeller, Raclette, and Vacherin Fribourgeois.
• White wine, such as a dry Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, or unoaked Chardonnay.
• Garlic.
• Cornstarch.
• Ground or Dijon mustard.
• Nutmeg.
• Lemon juice.
• Kirsch or Kirschwasser (a cherry liqueur or schnapps).

For the equipment, you will need:

• A fondue pot or caquelon.
• Fondue forks or skewers.
• A garlic press.
• A citrus press.
• A grater.

Instructions

• Start by coating the grated or shredded cheeses with cornstarch and set them aside.
• Cut one garlic clove in half and rub the inside of the fondue pot with it, then discard. Mince or press the other garlic cloves and set them aside.
• Over medium heat, add the wine and lemon juice and bring to a gentle simmer.
• Gradually add the cheese to the simmering liquid in a figure-8 motion. Melting the cheese gradually encourages a smooth fondue.
• Once smooth, stir in the Kirsch, mustard, nutmeg, and minced garlic. Season with salt to taste.
• Spear with fondue forks, dip, swirl, and enjoy!

Tips

• It is important to use good-quality cheese and wine for the best results.
• Grate the cheese for quicker melting and a smoother fondue.
• Cornstarch helps thicken the fondue and prevents the cheese from clumping.
• The acid in the wine will help keep the cheese mixture smooth and gives it an even texture.
• You can add other ingredients such as herbs, paprika, cayenne, nutmeg, mustard, or tomato coulis to taste.
• Traditional accompaniments include cubed bread, cooked potatoes, sliced apples, pears, cornichons, pickled pearl onions, and salami.

Frequently asked questions