A Swiss Delicacy: Who Invented Fondue And Why?

Fondue is a Swiss dish that originated in the 18th century as a way to use hardened cheese and stale bread during the winter months. The name is derived from the French verb fondre, meaning to melt. The Swiss Cheese Union popularised fondue as Switzerland's national dish in the 1930s to increase cheese consumption. Fondue consists of a blend of cheeses, wine, and seasoning, served in a communal pot and eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks. It was introduced to America at the 1964 New York World's Fair and has since become a symbol of Swiss unity and culture.

The Swiss Cheese Union

The union's campaign successfully transformed fondue from a rural dish to a beloved staple in Swiss culture, enjoyed by all socioeconomic classes. It was particularly well-received in traditional and rural areas, both in French and German-speaking regions. Fondue's communal nature, prepared and served in an earthenware pot called a "caquelon", embodies the essence of Swiss hospitality and camaraderie.

While the Swiss Cheese Union is credited with popularising fondue, the dish's roots can be traced back to the ingenuity of Swiss farm families. By melting cheese with wine, garlic, and herbs, and dipping stale bread into it, they created a hearty meal that warmed their bodies and souls during the cold winter months. This tradition of cooking and gathering around a cosy fire evolved into the Swiss winter tradition known as fondue.

The 1930s campaign to increase cheese consumption

Fondue, which comes from the French verb "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in 18th-century Switzerland. It was a way for farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the winter months. By melting their remaining cheese with stale bread and wine, they could soften the bread and make it more palatable. This method of cooking and eating together became a Swiss winter tradition.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) launched a campaign to increase cheese consumption in Switzerland. They promoted fondue as the Swiss national dish, creating pseudo-regional recipes as part of the "spiritual defence of Switzerland". Fondue was no longer just a peasant dish, but a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity. It was enjoyed by people of all classes and featured in Swiss military cookbooks.

The Swiss Cheese Union's campaign was so successful that it continued even after World War II. Fondue sets were sent to military regiments and event organizers across Switzerland. The Swiss aggressively promoted fondue with catchy slogans like "La fondue crée la bonne humeur" ("fondue creates a good mood") and "Fondue isch guet und git e gueti Luune" ("fondue is good and creates a good mood", abbreviated as "figugegl").

The popularity of fondue spread beyond Switzerland's borders. In 1964, it was introduced to America at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the New York World's Fair. Fondue became popular in the United States in the 1960s and 1970s, and it has since become a symbol of Swiss culture and cuisine worldwide.

The earliest known recipe

However, it is important to note that the term "cheese fondue" originally referred to a different dish, which included eggs and cheese. This dish, which was something between scrambled eggs with cheese and a cheese soufflé, was mentioned in Vincent La Chapelle's 1735 book "Cuisinier moderne" and was also described by Brillat-Savarin in 1834. It was not until 1875 that the first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue, under the name "cheese fondue", was published. This recipe included cheese and wine but no eggs.

The origin of fondue can be traced back to 18th-century Switzerland, where it was a way for farm families to make use of hardened cheese and stale bread during the winter months. With limited access to fresh foods, they discovered that heating the cheese with wine, garlic, and herbs created a flavorful mixture that softened their stale bread when dipped into it. This method of cooking and eating together over one pot by a warm fire became a Swiss winter tradition.

The word "fondue" itself comes from the French word "fondre", which means "to melt". The first written recipes for fondue appeared in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, but they called for the use of Gruyère, a Swiss cheese, further supporting the Swiss origin of the dish. Despite its rural beginnings, fondue was not limited to the farmhouse or the peasant class but was frequently enjoyed by people of means.

How to cook fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish that typically consists of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. It is eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks into the cheese using long-stemmed forks. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" ('to cook cheese with wine').

• Choose the right fondue pot: A ceramic fondue pot is used for cheese and chocolate fondues, while a metal fondue pot is used for fondues that require high heat, such as meat and seafood. An enamel cast iron fondue pot can be used for any type of fondue.
• Gather your ingredients: For a classic cheese fondue, you will need grated cheese (a blend of Swiss cheeses such as Emmental and Gruyère is traditional), wine (dry white wine is commonly used), and seasoning (salt, pepper, and nutmeg). You can also add a small amount of brandy or cognac, such as Kirschwasser (or Kirsch for short), to enhance the flavour and prevent curdling.
• Prepare your dipping food: Fondue is typically served with bread, boiled potatoes, crudites (raw or blanched vegetables), and/or meat or seafood if they are pre-cooked. Cut your chosen dipping foods into bite-sized pieces.
• Prepare the fondue: Combine the cornstarch and Kirsch in a small bowl and mix to form a slurry. Then, add a cup of wine and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer.
• Add the cheese: Gradually add small amounts of grated cheese to the wine mixture, stirring continuously until each addition is fully melted before adding more.
• Season and serve: Once all the cheese has been added and melted, season the fondue with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Transfer the fondue to the fondue pot and serve immediately. Keep the fondue warm using a small candle or similar heat source.
• Enjoy: Dip your chosen foods into the melted cheese and enjoy! Remember to stir the fondue occasionally to prevent it from separating or curdling.

Some tips to keep in mind:

• If the fondue starts to curdle, beat in some freshly squeezed lemon juice.
• Always stir cheese fondue in a figure-eight motion to encourage the blending of ingredients.
• The crust that forms at the bottom of the pot during the course of the meal, known as "la religieuse", is considered a delicacy and can be scraped off and shared.
• If serving meat or seafood fondue, provide an appropriate dipping sauce such as Béarnaise, aioli, or horseradish sauce.

The Swiss winter tradition

Fondue, from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", is a Swiss winter tradition that originated in the 18th century. It was a way for farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the cold winter months. With stale bread and aged cheese, a family could gather around the hearth and soften the bread by dipping it into the melted cheese. This way of cooking and eating together over one pot and a warm fire became a Swiss winter tradition known as fondue.

The first written recipes for fondue appear in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, but they call for Gruyère, a Swiss cheese. The Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) promoted fondue as the Swiss national dish in the 1930s as a way to increase cheese consumption. Fondue was also popularised in North America in the 1960s, when it was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the 1964 New York World's Fair.

Fondue is traditionally made and served in an earthenware pot known as a caquelon. This wide, shallow pot is favoured because it heats evenly and retains heat, so the meal can be enjoyed for longer. Diners skewer cubes of bread, swirl them in the bubbling cheese, and soak up the cheese without letting the bread disintegrate. Losing your bread in the pot is considered bad form and may result in playful penalties, such as washing the dishes or buying a round of drinks.

The basic ingredients in Swiss fondue are cheese, wine, and garlic, but it can also include mountain herbs, paprika, cayenne, nutmeg, mustard, and occasionally tomato coulis. The bread is always sturdy, either white or brown, cut into bite-sized chunks for dipping. Accompaniments often include potatoes, cornichon, and pickled pearl onions. Accompanying beverages typically include white wine, tea, and occasionally a glass of kirsch. Fondue is traditionally enjoyed as a main course, but it can also be served as an entree or appetiser.

In Switzerland, fondue is still considered a winter meal, a comforting one-pot dish enjoyed by families. It is most common in traditional or rural areas, both in French and German-speaking regions. Fondue is rarely served in elegant restaurants, as its aroma can be overpowering. Fondue is a symbol of Swiss unity and a beloved part of the country's culinary culture.

Frequently asked questions