The Chongqing Hot Pot Bunker Phenomenon: Exploring The Underground Dining Experience

Chongqing, China, is known for its spicy hot pot, a bubbling tabletop broth into which diners dunk bite-sized pieces of food to cook and eat. The city has no shortage of hot pot restaurants, but some of the most unique are those housed in former World War II bomb shelters. During the war, Chongqing served as the capital-in-exile of China when the east coast was conquered by the Japanese, and the city was targeted by numerous air raids. To protect people and military weapons, hundreds of tunnels and caves were carved into the mountains to serve as air-raid shelters. Today, these spaces have been converted into shops, storage spaces, and restaurants, including hot pot restaurants, creating a dining experience that combines two eras of the city's history.

Chongqing's role in World War Two

Chongqing played a unique role during World War Two, serving as the temporary capital of China when the east coast was conquered by the Japanese. The city was also the wartime capital of the Chinese government-in-exile, led by Chiang Kai-shek.

Chongqing's hilly landscape and rocky foundation made it ideal for the construction of air-raid shelters. During the war, thousands of tunnels and caves were carved into the mountains to serve as storage facilities, air-raid shelters, and homes for those seeking refuge from the Japanese air raids. Chongqing was subjected to a series of massive terror bombing operations authorised by the Empire of Japan. From 18 February 1938 to 19 December 1944, there were 268 air raids conducted against the city, involving anywhere from a few dozen to over 150 bombers per raid.

Chongqing's role as the wartime capital brought it to the forefront of global change and significantly shaped its future. The city became a major international centre, playing a crucial part in China's transformation from a partitioned, de facto colony to a first-rate global power.

Chongqing's strategic position at the meeting point of the Jialing and Yangtze Rivers also made it an important inland shipping port. The city's steep topography, however, created a need for manual labour to transport goods, giving rise to the bang-bang men, dock porters who played an integral role in the city's infrastructure during the 19th and 20th centuries.

The city's mountainous landscape

Chongqing is known as the "Mountain City" due to its mountainous landscape. The city is built on mountains, with rows of mountains winding along the Yangtze River and an elevated, rocky landscape running straight into the heart of the Yuzhong Peninsula, the city centre. The city's monorail system is the world's longest and busiest, with 70 stations, and it has to navigate the city's hilly landscape. Chongqing's central urban area is located on a huge folding area, with Yuzhong, Nan'an, Shapingba, and Jiangbei districts located on a big syncline. The Zhongliang and Tongluo Mountains roughly form the eastern and western boundaries of Chongqing's urban area. The highest point in the downtown area is the top of Eling Hill, which separates the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers, at 379 metres (1,243 feet). The lowest point is Chaotian Gate, where the two rivers merge, at 160 metres (520 feet). The average height of the area is 259 metres (850 feet).

Chongqing's mountainous terrain played a crucial role during World War Two. As the provisional capital of China during the war, the city was subject to numerous air raids by the Japanese. To protect the people, the army, and their supplies, dozens to hundreds of tunnels and caves were cut into the mountains to serve as storage facilities, air-raid shelters, and homes for those seeking refuge. After the war, these spaces were repurposed into shops, storage spaces, mahjong parlours, and restaurants.

The popularity of hot pot in Chongqing

Chongqing hot pot is not just a local delicacy but also a representation of the city's food culture. With over 30,000 hot pot restaurants in the city, it is safe to say that hot pot is an indispensable part of daily life in Chongqing.

The history of Chongqing hot pot dates back to the 1920s in the Jiangbei District. It is believed that the dish originated from the porters' cuisine in the late 19th century. Chongqing, a port city surrounded by the Yangtze and Jialing rivers, received shipments of animals from neighbouring provinces. The good meat was sold to the upper and middle classes, while the internal organs were discarded or sold cheaply. Porters and boatmen would pick up these organs, including stomachs and kidneys, and cook them in a boiling pot with a spicy sauce. This practice laid the foundation for Chongqing hot pot.

The dish gained popularity during World War II when Chongqing became the wartime capital, and it has since become a staple in the city. Chongqing hot pot is characterised by its use of beef tallow, large quantities of chilli, and Sichuan pepper. The soup base is typically made by heating a generous amount of beef tallow and adding ingredients like thick-broad beans, Sichuan peppercorns, fermented soybeans, rock sugar, ginger, salt, and chillies. The traditional way of eating Chongqing hot pot involves dipping cooked pieces of food in sesame oil.

The people of Chongqing have a strong emotional connection to hot pot. It is a tradition for most locals to have hot pot before leaving the city or soon after returning home. Hot pot restaurants are seamlessly integrated into the fabric of the city, and the dish is a celebration of life, family, friends, and lovers. The city's love for hot pot is so profound that it was named "China's hotpot city" by the China Cuisine Association in 2007.

Chongqing is home to the world's largest hot pot restaurant, Pipa Yuan, which covers a hillside and can seat around 5,800 people. The city boasts tens of thousands of hot pot eateries, ranging from well-known chains to inconspicuous, old establishments. The abundance of options makes it challenging to choose, but some popular spots include Yuwei Xiaoyu Hot Pot, Zhao Er Hot Pot, and Qiqi Eel Hot Pot.

Chongqing hot pot is more than just a meal; it is a lifestyle and a cultural symbol that brings people together. The city's residents cherish the authentic and nostalgic atmosphere that these restaurants offer, making hot pot an integral part of Chongqing's culture and identity.

The transformation of air-raid shelters

Chongqing, China, earned the nickname Shancheng or "Mountain City" due to its mountainous landscape. During World War II, the city served as the capital-in-exile of the Chinese government when the Japanese occupied the east coast. This made Chongqing a target of numerous air raids, and so hundreds of tunnels and caves were carved into the mountains to serve as air-raid shelters.

Over time, these spaces have been repurposed into shops, storage spaces, mahjong parlours, and restaurants. Some have even been turned into museums, stores, and other venues as part of a campaign to reuse retired air raid shelters. One such transformation is the "Cave Hot Pot" restaurant, where diners can enjoy the local speciality of Chongqing hot pot in a former air raid shelter. The unique dining experience combines two eras of the city's long history.

Chongqing hot pot is known for its spice, using beef fat, red chilli peppers, and numbing Sichuan peppercorns in the broth. The traditional way of preparing and eating this style of dish is to put the food in a hot pot, wait for it to cook, and then dip the pieces in sesame oil before eating. The hot pot base is mainly made with red chilli oil, beef fat, and spices such as bay leaf, clove, and cinnamon.

The history of Chongqing hot pot dates back to the 1920s in the Jiangbei District. Initially, it was a dish for labourers, who would buy beef tripe, boil it, and then cut beef liver and stomach into small pieces to be placed in a clay stove. Each person would choose their own food and only pay for what they ate, making it an affordable option. Over time, it gained popularity and became a high-grade dish, spreading from street food to gourmet restaurants.

The city's reputation as a 'furnace' city

Chongqing, China, is known as one of the country's four "furnace cities" due to its soaring temperatures. During World War II, the city served as the temporary capital of China when the Japanese invasion drove the government out of Nanjing and occupied eastern China. As a result, Chongqing became the target of numerous air raids by the Japanese, and thousands died in the aerial bombing attacks. To protect people and military weapons, air raid shelters were built into the city's mountainous landscape.

Today, these former shelters continue to play an essential role in the city's culture and history. Some have been converted into unique dining experiences, combining two eras of Chongqing's history. The city is famous for its hot pot cuisine, where diners cook bite-sized pieces of food in a peppery bubbling tabletop broth. The hot pot tradition is said to have originated in the 16th century when porters ate boiled meat and vegetables spiced with Sichuan pepper after a hard day's work on the docks. Now, hot pot restaurants in former air raid shelters, known as "cave hot pot," offer a popular dining experience where people can enjoy their meal in a naturally cooler environment.

The Old Brand Cave Space Hot Pot, located in Lianglukou, Chongqing, is one such example. Diners can walk down narrow mountain tunnels to enjoy their meal in a setting that combines the city's history with its famous cuisine. Another well-known "cave hot pot" restaurant is the Cave Pavilion Hotpot, established in 1989. This restaurant features tables and chairs lining two long, narrow tunnels connected by a dimly lit corridor, creating a distinctive dining atmosphere.

Chongqing's reputation as a "furnace city" is well-deserved, and the city's residents have found creative ways to beat the heat by utilising the underground spaces left over from World War II. The unique combination of history, culture, and cuisine makes Chongqing a fascinating destination for those seeking an immersive dining experience.

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