Ella Walter
When installing a shower pan, it is important to use the correct type of mortar mix to ensure a sturdy and waterproof base. The ideal mortar mix for a shower pan is a blend of standard cement mix, sand, and Portland cement, which creates a strong and water-resistant barrier. This mixture can be challenging to balance, as it requires activating the cement-sand mix without making it too wet. The consistency should resemble that of sand used by children to build sandcastles or a snowball that holds its form but easily crumbles when touched. While Type N or Type S mortar can be used, it must be mixed correctly to avoid crumbling. Additionally, the shower pan installation requires a waterproofing membrane and basic support at the subfloor level, such as wire mesh or a paper slip sheet.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of mortar mix | Type S, Type N, or a standard cement mix with sand and Portland cement |
| Consistency | Should be thick and shapable, but not too wet |
| Installation process | Two stages, with the first layer underneath a waterproofing membrane |
| Slope | Should be calculated based on the distance from the drain to the farthest wall |
| Drainage | A drainage path should be established for water in case the top layers are compromised |
| Subfloor | Basic support at the subfloor level is necessary, such as wire mesh or a paper slip sheet |
| Tiling | Should begin within 16 hours of mortar bed installation |
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What You'll Learn
Type S mortar mix
Type S mortar is type S cement with sand in it. It is typically used for masonry work, such as laying or tuckpointing brick and block, or for making stucco. While some sources advise against using Type S mortar for shower beds or pans, others suggest that it can be used if mixed as a dry pack.
The main concern with using Type S mortar for a shower pan is that it is typically mixed very wet, which makes it difficult to shape into a sloping form. If mixed drier than instructed, there is a risk of it crumbling. However, Type S mortar can be used for the shower pan and pre-slope pan if mixed as a dry pack, as it bonds well with a small amount of water. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing ratios and not to make it too thick.
When building a shower pan, it is essential to have a waterproofing membrane in place to prevent water damage and mould. The first layer of the shower pan should be underneath this membrane, establishing a drainage path for water in case the top layers are compromised. A cleavage membrane, such as building paper or roofing felt, can be installed, followed by metal lath or reinforcement secured to the subfloor with nails or staples.
The slope of the shower pan should be calculated to ensure proper drainage. The target slope is 1/4" per foot from the wall to the drain. After marking the high point, you can start forming the perimeter of the shower pan using a dry pack sand mix. Pack the perimeter layer with a rubber or wooden float and use a hand level to ensure it is level on all sides and from edge to edge. Once the perimeter is level, fill in the centre of the shower pan, creating a rough slope towards the drain.
After installing the waterproofing membrane, the final layer of sand mix can be applied, with a minimum depth of 1/2". It is important to tape off the drain opening to keep it clean and place a layer of clean gravel or crushed tile around the shower drain to keep the weep holes free. Tiling should be started within 16 hours of installing the final mortar bed. After 24 hours, the mortar bed enters a "green" state, and tiles cannot be adhered for 28 days.
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Type N mortar mix
When it comes to using mortar mix for a shower pan, there are a few things to consider. Some sources suggest using a dry-pack mixing method with a sand mix for building a shower pan. This involves pouring sand mix into a mortar pan or bucket, adding water, and mixing to achieve the desired consistency. It is important to consult local building codes and industry standards, such as the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) Handbook, for specific guidelines.
While Type N mortar is commonly used for various applications, it is essential to note that mortar selection for shower pans depends on the specific requirements and recommendations of the manufacturer. In some cases, Type S mortar or other specialised mortar mixes may be suggested for shower pan installations. It is always recommended to refer to the manufacturer's instructions and seek advice from professionals before selecting the appropriate mortar type for a shower pan project.
In one instance, a user shared their experience on Reddit, mentioning that they used Type N mortar for their acrylic shower pan installation. They mixed the mortar thickly and placed globs of it under the base, resulting in a solid structure after 24 hours. However, it is important to note that this is a single account, and individual results may vary.
Overall, while Type N mortar mix is a versatile and commonly used product, it is important to carefully consider the specific requirements and guidelines for shower pan installations before proceeding. Consulting with professionals and following manufacturer instructions will help ensure a successful and safe project outcome.
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Dry-pack mortar mix
A dry-pack mortar mix is a critical foundation for any custom shower project. It is a suitable option for a shower pan, and it is important to get this detail right as it affects the long-term durability of the shower.
To begin, reinforce the shower pan. You can use an unbonded mortar bed, which involves placing a tar paper slip sheet on the subfloor with wire mesh stapled to the top. Next, determine the drain height and the height of the perimeter screeds relative to the drain. Generally, you want 1/4 inch of pitch per linear foot for the water to drain effectively. Set the drain flange 1/2 inch above the subfloor to use as a low-point reference for your slope. Plug the drain to ensure it stays clear during the installation.
Now, it's time to mix the dry-pack mortar. Pour Sand Mix into a mortar pan or 5-gallon bucket. Add about 1/4 of the recommended water to the mix and start mixing. The consistency of the mix is crucial. It should be similar to sandcastle sand—not too wet, not too dry. If the mix is too crumbly, add more water and remix. If it's too wet, add more of the dry mix. The dry-pack should hold together when squeezed but break apart when poked.
Once you have the right consistency, it's time to form screeds with the dry-pack around the perimeter of the pan. Use a rubber or wooden float to pack the perimeter layer, repeatedly tamping the material down. Use a hand level to ensure the layer is even. Once the perimeter is level, fill in the center of the shower pan, establishing a rough slope from the edges to the drain.
After the dry-pack mortar is installed, let it dry for at least 24 hours before moving on to the next step. The drying time can vary depending on the thickness of the mortar bed. Once dry, you can sweep or vacuum any loose sand on the surface, but avoid scrubbing or cleaning too aggressively.
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Mortar bed installation
The use of mortar mix for a shower pan is a topic that has been widely discussed, with some people arguing for its necessity while others believe it is unnecessary. However, the consensus is that a mortar bed is essential for providing additional support and preventing the shower pan from cracking due to weight and movement.
Now, for the mortar bed installation process:
First, ensure that you have the necessary materials, including a mortar mix, a shower pan, a bucket, water, respiratory protection, building paper or roofing felt, metal lath or reinforcement, nails or staples, and a tool for packing the mix, such as a rubber or wooden float.
Next, begin by installing a cleavage membrane. Cut a sheet of building paper or roofing felt to fit the bottom of the shower base. This layer will act as a protective barrier between the subfloor and the mortar bed. Secure the membrane to the subfloor using nails or staples.
Calculate the slope of your shower pan. Measure the distance from the drain to the farthest wall and aim for a slope of 1/4" per foot. Mark the high point of your mortar bed by multiplying this distance by 0.25 and adding 0.5". For example, if your drain is 3 feet from the shower wall, your high point would be 1.25" above the subfloor.
Now, it's time to prepare the mortar mix. Wearing respiratory protection, pour the mix into your bucket and add water gradually, following the manufacturer's instructions for the correct consistency. The mix should be dry but still pliable.
Start installing the mortar bed by dumping the mix into the shower base and packing it down with your rubber or wooden float. Use a hand level to ensure that the perimeter remains level on all sides and from edge to edge. Once the perimeter is level, fill in the center of the shower pan, creating a rough slope towards the drain.
After achieving the rough slope, use a straight edge to confirm a smooth slope in all directions. Make adjustments as needed by adding more material and packing it down. Allow this pre-slope bed to cure for 24 hours before proceeding.
Finally, repeat the process for the final mortar bed layer, referring to your calculated low point and slope. Tape off the drain opening to keep it clean, and place a layer of gravel or crushed tile around the shower drain to protect the weep holes. Adjust the drain height to accommodate the tile thickness, and begin tiling within 16 hours. After 24 hours, the mortar bed will enter a "green" state, and tiles cannot be adhered for another 28 days.
This installation guide provides a comprehensive approach to mortar bed installation for a shower pan, ensuring a solid and durable foundation for your shower.
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Waterproofing
To begin the waterproofing process, cut a sheet of building paper or roofing felt to fit the bottom of the shower base. This will act as a cleavage membrane. Install metal lath or reinforcement over this membrane, securing it to the subfloor with nails or staples.
Next, calculate the floor slope by measuring the distance from the drain to the farthest wall. The target is a 1/4" slope per foot from the wall to the drain. Mark this point and extend it around the entire perimeter of the shower. This will be your reference point for establishing the slope of the mortar bed.
After installing the waterproofing membrane, it is time to apply the final layer of Sand Mix or mortar. The depth of this layer will depend on the height of the adjustable drain but must be a minimum of 1/2". Make sure to tape off the drain opening to keep it clean and place a layer of clean gravel or crushed tile around it to keep the weep holes free.
It is important to note that you should not apply a topical waterproofing treatment on top of the final mud layer, as this can create an environment for mould to grow. The vinyl liner or shower pan liner acts as the primary waterproof membrane, and any moisture that penetrates the tile, grout, or final mud layer should flow to the weep holes in the shower drain.
Additionally, it is recommended to waterproof the walls and ceiling of the shower with a liquid waterproofing membrane. This will ensure that any moisture is properly drained, and you can tile directly over it.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, Type S mortar is great for a shower pan and pre-slope pan, but only if you mix it as a dry pack. It bonds very well with a small amount of water.
The ideal mortar mix for a shower pan is a mix of standard cement with sand and Portland cement. This creates a great water-resistant barrier that can support the weight of the shower unit.
The ratio of sand to cement in the mortar mix for a shower pan is typically 4-1 or 5-1. However, the prebagged Sakrete mix is generally 3-1, so you may need to add extra sand.
The consistency of the mortar mix should be similar to the type of sand children often use to make a sandcastle. It should hold its form when packed into a ball but then break down easily when touched.
