Cody Casey
Installing a trunk floor pan in a 1967 Chevelle can be a challenging task. While some opt for a one-piece flooring kit, others choose to install repair sections or go for individual sections. Before installation, it is crucial to test-fit the trunk floor pan to the chassis and check the alignment of mounting holes. Removing the gas tank and rear bumper is necessary for installing repair sections, while replacing the entire trunk floor may require complete removal of the body from the chassis. The process often involves welding, grinding, and ensuring proper fit and alignment to address rust issues and restore the vehicle.
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What You'll Learn
The one-piece vs three-piece debate
When it comes to installing a trunk floor pan in a 67 Chevelle, there are a few options to consider: the one-piece, three-piece, or even seven-piece kits. Each option has its own advantages and considerations, and the choice ultimately depends on factors such as time, cost, and the condition of the car.
The one-piece trunk floor option is often recommended for its convenience and efficiency. By opting for a one-piece kit, you can save time and money in the long run. This option eliminates the need for extensive bodywork in the trunk to smooth out welds, making it a more straightforward installation process. However, it can be challenging to fit the one-piece trunk into place, and you may need to lift the body off the chassis or slide it between the rails and the body.
On the other hand, the three-piece kit provides more flexibility during installation. While it requires additional time for cutting and fitting each piece, it offers the advantage of being able to work in smaller sections. This can be beneficial if you're working on a tight budget or have limited access to equipment. Additionally, the three-piece kit allows for more precise fitting and customization.
Another factor to consider is the condition of your Chevelle's trunk. If the entire trunk floor needs to be replaced, the one-piece option may be more suitable. This is because it ensures a seamless and consistent replacement, eliminating the need to worry about matching different sections perfectly. However, if only a portion of the trunk floor requires replacement, the three-piece kit can be more cost-effective and less labour-intensive.
When deciding between the one-piece and three-piece options, it's essential to assess your specific needs and constraints. If time is of the essence and you're comfortable with the additional cost, the one-piece kit can be a convenient choice. On the other hand, if you're looking for a more customizable solution and are willing to invest the time, the three-piece kit might be a better fit. Ultimately, both options have their advantages, and the decision should be based on your unique circumstances and preferences.
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Removing the gas tank and rear bumper
To remove the gas tank, first jack up the rear end of the car. Disconnect the hoses going from the tank to the fuel lines. Disconnect the connector from the gas tank sending unit that's connected to the trunk wiring harness—you should see the wire running across the top of the tank at the rear edge. Remove the screws at the rear of the fuel tank straps, then work your way to the front, being careful to support the tank so it doesn't drop. With all the fastening hardware removed, gently pull downwards and it should break free.
To remove the rear bumper, you'll need to remove the rear valance first. The rear valance is held on by a 1/2-inch head bolt on each end, which you can access from underneath the car. They point to the rear, with the head of the bolt facing the front of the car, and they are angled out. The valance is also held on by the same bolts that retain the license plate holder/fuel door. Once the valance is off, there are two more bumper bolts at the ends of the bumper underneath, in line with the jack hook opening.
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Welding and grinding
Drill the replacement panel along the braces and structural engagement surfaces to plug weld them together. Scribing a line along the braces provides a reference for accurate drilling. When welding, ensure the weld seams between the center and each outer section have a lap joint that falls over the trunk brace seam for added protection and aesthetics.
After welding, grinding is essential to smooth out the welds and ensure a seamless finish. Use a wire wheel or a grinding disk to clean the welds and remove any excess material. It is important to be cautious and only grind enough to separate the pieces of sheet metal, maintaining a clean and precise finish.
Additionally, consider the overall trunk floor installation process. Some suggest cutting a large hole in the trunk to access spot welds easily, while others recommend lifting the body off the chassis or removing one of the quarters to accommodate the one-piece trunk floor. It is also important to inspect the entire inner structure for rust or damage before welding, ensuring a stable and secure installation.
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Trunk floor drop-offs
When installing a trunk floor in a 1967 Chevelle, it is important to note that the one-piece flooring kit may be a tight fit. While it may save time and money in the long run, it might be challenging to get the one-piece trunk into place.
One user on the Chevelle forum suggested cutting a big hole in the trunk to make accessing all of the spot welds easier. This person's plan is to measure in about 3” from the mating flanges of the trunk floor, inner wheel houses, trunk drop-offs, and rear brace, and then cut out a major part of the trunk. With a large portion of the floor gone, it will be easier to drill out the spot welds and separate the panels. Another option is to cut the front of the trunk floor about 6” back from the rear seat divider and then lap or butt the new floor to it.
Another user on the forum noted that they had to replace the trunk floor drop-offs and that they needed to be bent and adjusted to fit. They also added metal to the bottom of the drop-offs to fit the 1/4's. This user also recommended taking the time to fit everything up before welding.
When installing a trunk floor, it is important to consider the braces and other structural engagement surfaces. You will need to drill your replacement panel along these areas so you can plug weld them together. It is also recommended to scribe a line along the braces underneath to have a reference for the holes.
Additionally, when replacing the trunk floor, it is important to consider whether the back of the car needs supporting or bracing. If the quarters and wheelhouses are in good shape, you may be able to leave the seat back in place. However, it is recommended to weld a brace in the trunk opening between the quarters as a precaution.
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Rust protection
Rust is a common problem for the 1966-1967 Chevelle, particularly in the trunk floor. Before installing the trunk floor, it is important to test fit it to the chassis and check the alignment of the mounting holes. This will ensure that the new floor is level and does not have any gaps that could allow water to enter and cause rust.
To protect against rust, it is recommended to use a weld-through, copper-rich primer. This type of primer provides better penetrating spot and tack welds and offers long-term rust protection. It is also important to ensure that the seam edges are straight and fully trimmed to guarantee a proper fit.
Another option for rust protection is to install trunk gutters. The Trunk Gutters for the 1966-1967 Chevelle are designed to fit seamlessly into the trunk area and provide protection against water damage and rust. They are made from high-quality materials that are built to last and resist wear and tear. Installation of these gutters is relatively easy and can be completed with basic tools.
Additionally, when replacing the trunk floor, it is important to address any rust holes and leaks that may be present. A brief squirt with a garden hose can help identify where water enters the trunk. Common areas for leaks include the passenger-side rear antenna and bad/worn weatherstripping. Exposing the trunk to sunlight with the gas tank out and the trunk lid open will also help to identify rust holes.
Finally, when purchasing a trunk floor pan, consider one that is EDP-coated for corrosion resistance and easier painting. For example, the AMD Auto Metal Direct 66 to 67 Chevelle Trunk Floor is EDP-coated and includes all the correct-as-original flanges, bends, and seams for a proper fit.
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Frequently asked questions
The best way to install a trunk floor pan in a 67 Chevelle is to use a one-piece flooring kit. This option may be a little tough to get into place, but it will save time and money in the long run.
Before installing the trunk floor pan, it is a good idea to test-fit it to the chassis and check the alignment of the mounting holes. You should also scribe a line along the braces to have a reference for the holes.
You will need a spot welder, such as the Chief Multispot MI200T spot welder, which can be purchased from Harold’s Hot Rod Shop in Enid, Oklahoma. You can use a MIG, but a spot welder is faster and it is the way the factory did it.
First, remove the gas tank and rear bumper. Then, cut out the rusted floor and remove the rear panel. Next, drill your replacement panel along the braces and other structural engagement surfaces so you can plug weld them together. Finally, butt weld the new metal in place, ensuring a gap of 1/16”-1/8” to allow for proper penetration of the spot welds.
Installing a trunk floor pan in a 67 Chevelle can take anywhere from 8-9 hours, including breaks. However, this time may vary depending on the skill and experience of the installer.
