Building A Storage Cabinet For Oil Drain Pans

Building a storage cabinet for oil drain pans can be a great way to keep your garage or workspace organised and tidy. While it may seem like a daunting task, with the right tools and materials, it can be a straightforward process. Here's an introduction to get you started on how to build your own storage cabinet.

First, you'll need to determine the size of your cabinet. Consider the items you plan to store, such as oil drain pans, funnels, and other equipment, and measure them to ensure they will fit comfortably inside the cabinet. Once you have your dimensions, you can create a comprehensive shopping list and cut list for the wood you'll need.

The next step is to construct the side panels. Cut the wood to the appropriate size and drill pocket holes on both sides, spacing them evenly apart. You can use a pocket hole system to simplify this process. After drilling, apply wood glue and clamp the pieces together before screwing them in place. Repeat this process for both side panels.

Now, you can assemble the top and bottom supports. Place the side panels on the floor and wedge the support pieces in between, ensuring the corners are square. Clamp them into place and screw them together. It's recommended not to glue these pieces in case you want to disassemble the cabinet in the future.

Follow similar steps to assemble the bottom panel, adding pocket holes and gluing and screwing the pieces together. At this point, you can also add shelves if desired. Measure, level, and screw the shelves into place, repeating for each shelf you want to include.

With the frame complete, it's time to add the back and top. Place the unit front-side down and align plywood for the back, drilling and screwing it into place. For the top, cut the wood to size and clamp, drill, and screw it in place.

Finally, sand down any imperfections and paint or stain your cabinet to your desired finish. You can also apply polyurethane to maintain the natural wood colour.

By following these steps and adapting them to your specific needs and measurements, you can effectively build a storage cabinet for oil drain pans and other equipment, keeping your space organised and your oil changing equipment within easy reach.

Choosing the right materials

When building a storage cabinet for oil drain pans, choosing the right materials is crucial to ensure durability and functionality. Here are some factors to consider when selecting the materials for your project:

Material Type:

• Wood: Wood is a common material for building storage cabinets due to its availability, workability, and aesthetic appeal. Consider using plywood or solid wood boards for the structure, ensuring they are sturdy enough to bear the weight of the oil drain pans and related equipment.
• Metal: Metal, such as aluminium or steel, can be used for the cabinet's frame and shelves. Metal provides durability and strength, making it ideal for storing heavy items like oil drain pans.
• Plastic: Plastic materials, such as polypropylene or PVC, can be used for specific components like drawer slides, hinges, or shelf liners. Plastic is lightweight, moisture-resistant, and easy to clean.

Material Thickness and Grade:

• Thickness: Ensure that the materials you choose have sufficient thickness to support the weight of the stored items. Thicker materials will provide more strength and durability but may also increase the overall weight of the cabinet.
• Grade: Opt for higher-grade materials whenever possible. For wood, select a grade with minimal knots and imperfections. For metal, consider using galvanised or stainless steel for added corrosion resistance.

Finish and Protection:

• Surface Finish: Consider applying a finish to the materials to enhance their appearance and protect them from the elements. For wood, you can use paint, stain, or polyurethane to add colour and protect against moisture. For metal, a powder coating or paint can provide a durable finish.
• Waterproofing: Since oil drain pans are involved, consider using waterproof materials or applying a waterproofing treatment to the cabinet interior. This will help contain any accidental spills or leaks.

Ease of Assembly:

Choose materials that are easy to work with and assemble. For wood, ensure your pieces are cut to the correct dimensions and pre-drill holes to make assembly smoother. For metal, consider using pre-fabricated components or metal that can be easily welded or bolted together.

By carefully considering these factors and selecting appropriate materials, you can build a durable and functional storage cabinet for your oil drain pans.

Cutting the wood

The first step in building your storage cabinet for oil drain pans is to cut the wood to the desired size and shape. Here are the steps you need to follow for accurate and precise wood cutting:

Determine the Type of Cut

The common types of cuts for woodworking projects are crosscuts, rip cuts, miter cuts, bevel cuts, and compound miter cuts. For your storage cabinet, you will likely need a combination of these cuts.

• Crosscut: Made across the grain of the wood or the width of the board. It changes the length of the board, making it shorter.
• Rip Cut: Made with the grain of the wood or along the length of the board. It changes the width of the board, making it narrower.
• Miter Cut: Made diagonally across the grain of the wood or the width of the board. It changes the length of the board, making it shorter.
• Bevel Cut: An angled cut made on the edge of the wood, changing its profile. Bevel cuts can modify the length or width of the board.
• Compound Miter Cut: A combination of a miter cut and a bevel cut, often needed for installing crown molding. It changes the length of the board.

Choose the Right Saw

Different types of saws are suitable for different cuts:

• Miter Saw: Best for crosscuts on narrow boards. It can also be used for miter cuts, bevel cuts, and compound miter cuts.
• Circular Saw: Use this for cutting plywood, MDF, blockboard, and plyboard. It makes direct line cuts and is useful for ripping boards to width.
• Jigsaw: Suitable for cutting plywood, chipboard, and hardboard. It can make both straight and curved cuts.
• Mitre Saw: Ideal for general-purpose joinery and cutting skirting planks, dado rails, and architraves. It can make angled and tilted cuts and is perfect when a specific angle is required.
• Reciprocating Saw: More suited for demolition work than building work. It makes quick and rough cuts and is useful for tasks like removing old window frames.
• Door Trimming Saw: Specifically designed for trimming the lower edges of doors. It makes simple shaping cuts.

Prepare the Wood

Before cutting, ensure that your work area is clear and you won't accidentally cut through anything else. Position the wood securely on a bench or worktable. If using a miter saw, clamp the wood tightly to prevent movement, which can affect the accuracy of the cut.

Make the Cut

Depending on the type of cut and the saw you are using, the cutting process will vary. Here are some general guidelines:

• For a jigsaw, position the wood on the bench and ensure the cutting area is clear. The cut is made as the blade rises upward through the wood, so the neatest side will be on the underside.
• When using a circular saw, place the wood with the coated surface on the bench. The cut is also made as the blade rises upward, so the neat side will be underneath.
• With a mitre saw, ensure the wood is securely clamped, and then pull the saw down toward the wood. The size of the blade determines the size of the cut.
• Reciprocating saws are typically held with both hands and used slowly and steadily.
• Door trimming saws should be pushed gradually into the bottom of the door until the edge meets the door, and then carefully slid along the fringe.

Fine-Tune the Cut

After making your initial cut, you might need to fine-tune it to achieve the exact length or width required:

• Measure the workpiece and adjust the cut if it's slightly too long.
• With the saw turned off, lower the blade and gently slide the workpiece until it touches the side of the blade.
• Raise the blade, and you'll notice the teeth touching the end of the workpiece. Start the saw and lower the blade to make a micro-cut.
• Repeat this process if necessary until you achieve the desired length.

Drilling pocket holes

To drill pocket holes, you will need a pocket hole jig and a drill. A pocket hole jig comes with a drill bit, a stop collar, and a square head screw-driving bit. You can use a cordless or corded drill for this.

Step 1: Set the Kreg Jig for the Proper Board Thickness

First, determine the thickness of the board you will be drilling the pocket holes into. Adjust the jig to match this thickness. For example, if you are drilling into a 3/4" thick board, set your jig for 3/4" material.

Step 2: Set Your Drill Bit for Proper Board Thickness

Now, set your drill bit to match the board thickness. Adjust the stop collar on the drill bit that comes with the pocket hole jig. Loosen the set screw on the side of the collar and move it up or down until it reaches the desired thickness. Then, tighten the set screw to lock it in place.

Step 3: Drill Your Pocket Holes

Once your jig and drill bit are set up, clamp your wood into the jig and start drilling. For boards of different widths, adjust the positioning of the board accordingly. Drill each hole until the stop collar touches the jig.

Be sure to clean out the sawdust after drilling a few boards to keep your workspace clean. Also, check that you are not drilling too far by examining the end of the board for dimples or holes. If this occurs, adjust your stop collar closer to the drill bit tip.

Step 4: Choose the Correct Screw

Use washer head or pan head pocket hole screws for your project. These screws have a rounded head with a built-in washer that prevents the screw from driving through the hole and pulls the adjoining piece tight.

Additionally, choose the correct screw length. As a general rule:

• Use 1" screws for 1/2" material
• Use 1 1/4" screws for 3/4" material
• Use 2 1/2" screws for 1 1/2" material

Step 5: Assemble Your Pieces

Finally, it's time to assemble your pieces. Apply wood glue to the joints for added strength, although this is not necessary. Use the square driving bit to drive the pocket hole screw through the pocket hole and into the adjoining piece. You can use a drill or impact driver for this step.

Clamp your pieces before driving the screw, especially if you are assembling pieces on the same plane. If you are joining pieces at a 90-degree angle, hold them tightly in place while driving the screw slowly.

Be careful not to overdrive your screws, as this can cause them to pop out or strip. Pocket holes are angled at 15 degrees, so overdriving can pull the piece with the pocket holes out of place.

Joining the wood panels

Joining wood panels is a basic woodworking skill that can be used in many different projects. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to join wood panels for your storage cabinet:

Step 1: Selecting the Boards

Choose boards with similar colours and grain patterns. Ensure that the edges of the boards are straight by sighting down the edge of each board. Finally, make sure the boards are flat and not twisted.

Step 2: Arranging the Boards

Arrange the boards with the best-looking side facing up, especially if you are creating a tabletop or a visible surface. If the boards vary in shade, avoid placing a dark board between two light ones. Shuffle the boards until the grain patterns look natural and pleasing. You can draw a "V" across the boards with chalk or pencil to ensure they are properly arranged when gluing.

Step 3: Applying Glue

Use white or yellow woodworking glue for interior projects. For projects exposed to moisture, such as a storage cabinet for oil drain pans, use water-resistant glue. Apply a bead of glue along the edge of one board, holding the glue bottle with one hand and the spout with the other. Only apply glue to one of the two boards being joined.

Step 4: Sliding the Boards Together

Press the two boards together and slide them back and forth to spread the glue evenly. This technique ensures that the glue is distributed on the edges of both boards.

Step 5: Inspecting the Glue Joint

Before clamping the boards together, separate them and inspect the edges. Ensure that there is a thin, even layer of glue on each edge. If there are any gaps or thin areas, apply additional glue to these sections.

Step 6: Clamping the Boards

Add clamps to the boards to create an even bead of squeezed-out glue along the entire length of the joint. Cover the clamps with masking tape to avoid staining the boards and to facilitate cleanup.

Step 7: Aligning the Top Surfaces

To save time on sanding later, ensure that the top surfaces of the boards are flush. Glue and clamp only one joint at a time, and start clamping at one end, working your way along the boards. Adjust the boards up or down as needed until the tops are flush. Apply sufficient clamping pressure to close any gaps and squeeze out a thin bead of glue.

Step 8: Scraping the Excess Glue

At room temperature and average humidity, the squeezed-out glue will be ready to scrape in about 20 minutes. Wait until the glue becomes jelly-like, then scrape it off with a chisel or putty knife. Be careful when handling the glued-up panels, as the glue will not reach maximum strength for several hours.

By following these steps, you will be able to join the wood panels for your storage cabinet securely and effectively.

Sanding and painting

Once you've built your storage cabinet, it's time for sanding and painting.

First, inspect your cabinet for any imperfections, nicks, dents, holes, etc. and patch it up with wood filler using a putty knife. Once the filler has dried, use an orbital sander to sand everything down. Sanding is messy work, so don't forget to wear eye protection and a face mask. If you want to make things a little easier, you can sand down the individual parts before assembly.

After you're done sanding, wipe away any remaining sawdust with a damp cloth. Then, you can start painting or staining. If you want to keep the natural wood colour, you can apply polyurethane and you're done. If you're painting, make sure to choose a high-quality paint. Special cabinet paints are available that provide a smooth finish, but any high-quality paint should work. Just make sure it's acrylic latex-based paint, as this is durable and easy to clean up.

If you're painting, start with the cabinet frames, using a high-quality brush for smaller areas and a foam roller for larger surfaces. Use even strokes with the brush and finish the stroke back into the wet paint, feathering out the edges. Once you've painted the frames, move on to the cabinet backs and fronts. Paint the backs, let them dry, then paint the fronts. Follow the paint directions for the correct dry time and don't rush—let the paint completely cure.

Finally, apply a second coat of paint. This should be your finish coat. Allow the paint to dry, and you're done!

Frequently asked questions