Cody Casey
Installing a concrete shower pan is a complex process that requires careful planning and execution. It involves multiple steps, from preparing the shower drain to ensuring proper waterproofing and slope for efficient drainage. The process begins with blocking off the shower drain, followed by sweeping and vacuuming the surface. Caulking is applied around the shower edges to create a waterproof seal. After measuring the slope height, one can proceed with pouring the shower pan mixture, ensuring a smooth and gradual slope. Proper installation of the drain assembly is crucial, and it may involve connecting PVC drains, using drain flanges, and sealing the drainpipe with caulking gaskets. The choice of materials, such as concrete board or Durock, and the use of reinforcements like wire mesh, play a significant role in the overall durability of the concrete shower pan.
How to Install a Concrete Shower Pan
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Drain | The drain should be the lowest point of the shower. The drain assembly is composed of multiple pieces. The first piece connects to the PVC drain and sits flush with the concrete board. The drain is screwed into the second piece and sits flush with the tile. |
| Drain Pipe | The drainpipe should extend at least an inch above the concrete. If it is too short, the concrete must be broken up to extend it. |
| Drain Flange | Install the drain flange and ensure it is completed by a plumber. |
| Slope | The slope should be measured around the area, with a general rule of thumb of adding 1/4" in height for every foot away from the shower drain. |
| Materials | Concrete board, nails, duct tape, caulk, Mapei 4 to 1 Mud Bed Mix, wire mesh reinforcements, vinyl, acrylic, fiberglass, caulking gasket, caulking nut, screwdriver, perforated drain cover. |
| Surface | The surface should be smooth and even, with no gaps or dimples. |
| Wall Framing | Stack three 2x4s to create a curb and add blocking between the wall framing. |
| Subfloor | The subfloor should be at the necessary level for the drain. |
| Waterproofing | Caulk around the shower edges to make it waterproof. |
| Membrane | A membrane is sandwiched between the first and second pieces of the drain assembly. |
| Weep Holes | Pebbles are placed around the weep holes in the drain to prevent mud from closing them off. |
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What You'll Learn
Preparing the base
First, ensure that the subfloor is at the necessary level for the drain. It is crucial that the drain is at the lowest point of your shower, with the pipe extending at least an inch above the concrete floor. If the pipe is too short, you will need to break up the concrete and extend it. There should be at least a 1-1/2-inch space between the pipe and the concrete to accommodate the drain assembly.
Next, install a curb by stacking three 2x4s and adding blocking between the wall framing. You can also cement the curb with a mesh screen and concrete troweled over it. Cover the drain with tape or a special plug to prevent debris or clogging during the installation process.
Now, you will need to install concrete board or backerboard on the walls. Ensure that the nails are at least 4 inches up the wall. For the concrete board, you can use a product like Durock, installing it with concrete troweled over a mesh screen to prevent leaking.
Before pouring the base, you may need to pre-slope the floor to ensure proper drainage. This involves blocking off your shower drain with tape or a special plug, sweeping and vacuuming the surface, and then caulking around the shower edges to make it waterproof. Allow this to dry, and then measure the slope height, adding 1/4 inch in height for every foot you move away from the drain.
Once the preparation is complete, you can mix and pour the concrete for your shower pan, ensuring a smooth and even surface that slopes gradually towards the drain.
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Installing the drain
First, ensure that the shower drain hole lines up with the existing shower drain. If it does not, trace the hole location onto the substrate, remove the shower pan, and use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut a hole in the subfloor for the shower drain pipe. This hole typically should not exceed 5 inches, but always check the manufacturer's specifications. Relocate the P-trap for the shower drain and pipe as needed so that the waste pipe extends approximately 1 3/4 inches above the subfloor, as specified by the manufacturer. It is recommended to have a helper for this step.
Next, test-fit the shower drain flange, also known as the "drain basket" or "drain body", to ensure it fits flush with the shower base. Apply a suitable sealant to the underside of the rim. Plumber's putty, a commonly used drain flange sealant, can degrade the shower pan material, so carefully check the manufacturer's instructions. Place the flange through the top side of the shower pan and press down firmly without twisting so that any excess sealant squeezes out.
Then, place the rubber drainpipe gasket over the drainpipe coming up through the shower drain flange. Thread the gasket setscrew over the rubber gasket and tighten it securely with the included tool and a screwdriver. Screw or snap the shower drain screen into place over the flange, ensuring it sits flush with the shower pan base. Allow the thinset mortar or adhesive to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Finally, test the pan and shower drain connection for leaks. Once you have confirmed that there are no leaks, you are ready to move on to installing the shower walls. If needed, get an inspection before proceeding further.
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Waterproofing
Prepare the Surface
Before applying any waterproofing materials, ensure the concrete surface is clean and free of debris. Use a foxtail brush to sweep away any dust or residue. If you're working with new concrete, allow it to cure completely before beginning the waterproofing process.
Choose a Waterproofing Method
There are several waterproofing methods available, and you can choose the one that best suits your skills, budget, and requirements:
- Sheet Membrane: This method offers excellent waterproofing qualities but can be tricky for DIYers. It involves using a trowel to apply a thin-set mortar to the walls and shower pan, creating a notched pattern. Then, you roll out the sheet membrane and carefully smooth it onto the mortar. Leave it to dry for 24 hours.
- Foam Board: Using extruded polystyrene foam is a more DIY-friendly option. Apply notched thin-set mortar to the shower pan and walls, then to the back of the foam board before attaching it. Use a sealant around the edges of the shower pan, both before and after installing the foam boards.
- Waterproofing Sealers: Penetrating sealers are breathable, allowing water vapour to escape. Acrylic sealers are inexpensive and easy to use but require maintenance. Polyurethanes improve the appearance and are durable, but the surface must be completely dry. Epoxies are very water-resistant but may trap water in the concrete over time.
Apply the Waterproofing
Follow the instructions for your chosen waterproofing method carefully. Ensure you cover all necessary surfaces, including the walls and shower pan. If using a sealer, apply it evenly and according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Finish with Grout Sealer
After installing tiles and grout, use a commercial grout sealer to seal the grout. Follow the instructions on the product, wipe away excess sealant, and allow it to dry.
Maintenance
To maintain your waterproofing, regularly squeegee shower walls, wipe them dry, and clean the shower walls and floors weekly. Use air vents or dehumidifiers to reduce moisture. Have a grout professional inspect and deep-clean the grout annually, and reseal the grout every one to two years.
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Pouring the concrete
First, ensure that the necessary preparations have been made. This includes installing a curb, blocking between the wall framing, and bringing the subfloor to the required level for the drain. It is also important to install a concrete board on the walls, such as Durock, and to complete the drain flange and drain installation.
Next, prepare the surface by sweeping and vacuuming to remove any debris. Use a foxtail brush for effective cleaning. After cleaning, cover the drain with tape to prevent it from clogging during the concrete pouring process.
Now, you are ready to begin pouring the concrete. Start by blocking off your shower drain using a special plug or duct tape. This will prevent the drain from becoming clogged with concrete. Once the drain is blocked, begin pouring the concrete, working from the corners and packing your way out. Use a trowel to smooth and level the concrete, ensuring a consistent and even surface. Make sure to build the concrete right up to the brim of the shower drain, ensuring that the drain is the lowest point of the shower.
As you work, regularly measure to ensure the slope is correct. The general rule is to add 1/4" in height for every foot you move away from the shower drain. This slope will ensure that water drains properly and doesn't pool on the shower pan. If you notice any gaps or dimples, use a smaller tool to pack the concrete into the corners and create a smooth and gradual slope.
Finally, allow the concrete to dry thoroughly. It is important to give it enough time to cure before proceeding with any further installation or use. Check the concrete after 24-48 hours; it should be dry by then, but it may take longer depending on the specific product and environmental conditions.
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Finishing touches
Once the shower pan is installed, there are several important finishing touches to complete the job. First, clear and clean the area meticulously. Remove any debris, obstructions, and leftover protective materials from the shower pan base. This step is important for a tidy workspace and a seamless transition to the final touches. It also ensures a smooth and level surface for the shower pan and prevents any future issues.
Next, assess the corners and edges to ensure they are free of any obstructions or imperfections. Attention to detail at this stage will enhance the overall look and functionality of your shower installation.
If you are installing tiles, you should begin within 16 hours of the mortar bed installation. After 24 hours, the mortar bed enters a "green" state, and you will need to wait 28 days before adhering tiles. You can use a steel finishing trowel to smooth out the final mortar bed, allowing tiles to be set directly on it without requiring additional thin-set mortar.
Before tiling, you should also install a waterproofing membrane. This is an important step to ensure that any moisture intrusion is properly drained. Grout and mortar are not completely waterproof, so skipping this step can lead to future issues.
Finally, gather all the necessary tools and materials, such as a measuring tape, level, trowel, waterproofing membrane, mortar mix, and the shower pan itself. Having everything ready before starting will save time and allow for a more efficient workflow.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step is to block off your shower drain. You can either buy a special plug from your hardware store, or simply use duct tape (or painter's tape) over it.
Sweep and vacuum the whole surface. Then caulk all the way around your shower edges to make it waterproof.
Once that’s dried, carefully measure all the way around the area for slope height. The general rule of thumb is to add 1/4” in height for every foot you move away from the shower drain.
The drain should always be the lowest point of your shower. Make sure the drainpipe extends at least an inch above the concrete.
