Easy Guide To Installing Oil Pan Gasket In 1999 Subaru 2.5

how to install oil pan gasket 1999 subaru 2.5

If you're looking to install an oil pan gasket on your 1999 Subaru 2.5, you'll need to first determine whether you have a 2.2 or 2.5 SOHC/DOHC engine. For the former, you can simply drop off the oil pan with no issues, but for the latter, you'll need to lift the engine but not completely remove it. This is because you need to access all the bolts on the oil pan, and some of them are located in tight spaces. To lift the engine, you'll need to undo the engine mount nuts and pitch stop, and possibly remove the exhaust from the heads and the lower motor mounts. It's also important to note that the oil pan gasket itself may not be the source of any leaks, as valve cover gaskets, cam and crank seals, and the oil pump are also potential culprits.

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You may need to lift the engine to access bolts

When replacing the oil pan gasket on a 1999 Subaru 2.5, you may need to lift the engine to access bolts at the back of the oil pan. This is a common issue when working on cars, and there are several ways to lift the engine.

One way is to use an engine leveller or a chain from corner to corner of the engine. You can use an old chain and bolts from front accessories like an alternator bracket bolt or water pump bolt. However, this method can be a hassle, as the chain could break and damage your engine or chassis. The chain can also get in the way if your engine is a tight fit.

A more reliable method is to use an engine lift plate. This has multiple bolt patterns and uses the existing carb studs in your intake. It also has four lifting holes to control the engine tilt for precise fitment.

If you choose to use a chain, make sure it is long enough to reach the bolts at the back of the oil pan. You may need to undo the two engine mount nuts and the pitch stop to raise the engine and access the bolts. Be careful not to over-tighten the bolts, as they can strip easily. They just need to be snug.

Another option is to use a load leveller and hoist the engine from the carb intake manifold bolts. This method is commonly used with cast iron engines.

Always exercise caution when lifting an engine, and consider seeking professional assistance if you are unsure about the process.

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Use RTV sealant or Fuji-bond, not a gasket

When installing an oil pan gasket for a 1999 Subaru 2.5, it is recommended to use RTV sealant or Fuji-bond instead of a gasket. RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing, and it is a type of silicone sealant that is used to create a seal between two surfaces. Here are some reasons why you should use RTV sealant or Fuji-bond instead of a gasket:

  • Improved Sealing: RTV sealant or Fuji-bond can provide a better seal compared to a conventional gasket. By applying a thin bead of RTV or Fuji-bond to the oil pan, you can achieve a stronger and more flexible seal that is less prone to leaks.
  • Ease of Installation: RTV sealant or Fuji-bond can make the installation process easier. You won't need to worry about aligning a gasket perfectly, and you can simply apply the sealant to the mating surfaces.
  • Durability: RTV sealant or Fuji-bond can offer longer-lasting results compared to a traditional gasket. The sealant forms a strong bond between the surfaces, which can withstand vibrations and temperature changes more effectively than a gasket.
  • Flexibility: RTV sealant or Fuji-bond can fill small gaps and imperfections in the mating surfaces. This flexibility helps ensure a tight seal, even if the surfaces are not perfectly smooth or flat.
  • No Wait Time: With RTV sealant or Fuji-bond, you don't need to wait for the sealant to cure before reassembling the parts. This can save you time during the installation process and get your vehicle back on the road faster.

It is important to note that when using RTV sealant or Fuji-bond, you should always follow the manufacturer's recommendations and instructions. Apply the sealant only to the necessary areas, such as the corners or stepped joints, and be careful not to overuse it. Additionally, ensure that the surfaces are clean, dry, and oil-free before applying the sealant for the best results.

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Check the O-ring at the base of the oil pickup tube

When replacing the oil pan gasket on a 1999 Subaru 2.5, it is important to check the O-ring at the base of the oil pickup tube. This is because the O-ring is a crucial component in sealing the oil system and preventing leaks.

To access the O-ring, you will need to remove the oil pan by undoing all the 10mm bolts. The pan will not simply pop off, and you may need to work at it with a razor blade to cut the seal. Once the pan is removed, it is important to scrape off any excess silicone and clean out any debris. This will ensure a clean surface for the new gasket to adhere to.

With the oil pan removed, you can now inspect the O-ring at the base of the oil pickup tube. The O-ring is responsible for sealing the connection between the oil pickup tube and the oil pump, ensuring that oil is drawn into the engine effectively. Over time, the O-ring can become worn, damaged, or brittle, which can lead to oil leaks.

If the O-ring shows any signs of wear, tear, or degradation, it is important to replace it with a new one. You can find the correct O-ring part number for your specific Subaru model online or at a local dealership. It is always recommended to use genuine Subaru parts to ensure the best fit and performance.

When replacing the O-ring, make sure to clean the area thoroughly and inspect the oil pickup tube for any signs of damage. Ensure that the new O-ring is properly lubricated and seated correctly in the groove at the base of the oil pickup tube. This will help prevent leaks and ensure the optimal performance of your Subaru's engine.

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Disconnect the pitch stop mount

Disconnecting the pitch stop mount on a 1999 Subaru 2.5 requires careful attention to detail and a methodical approach. Here is a comprehensive guide to help you through the process:

Step 1: Prepare the necessary tools and safety measures

Before beginning, ensure you have gathered all the required tools, including a 14 mm socket, a 14 mm wrench, a 12 mm socket, a 10 mm socket (shallow), and an 8 mm socket or flathead screwdriver. It is also important to work on a flat, level surface and allow the car's engine to cool down before starting.

Step 2: Remove the top mount intercooler

Locate and remove the three 10 mm gold-colored bolts that secure the black vacuum lines or coolant lines to the bottom of the intercooler. Be careful not to drop these bolts into the engine bay, as retrieving them can be challenging.

Next, remove the two 12 mm bolts that secure the recirculating BOV (bypass valve) to the bottom of the intercooler. Again, be cautious to avoid dropping these bolts.

Step 3: Disconnect the intercooler from the engine

Locate and remove the two 12 mm bolts on either side of the intercooler that secure it to the engine. At this point, the intercooler is only held in place by the rubber intake hoses with clamps.

Step 4: Detach the intake piping

Loosen the clamps connecting the intake piping to the intake manifold and intercooler using a flathead screwdriver or an 8 mm socket. Start with the clamp on the top, from the intercooler to the throttle body/intake manifold, as it is easier to access.

Step 5: Loosen the clamp on the cold side of the turbo

Using a flathead screwdriver or an 8 mm socket, loosen the clamp that holds the intake tube coming from the cold side of the turbo to the intercooler. This clamp is located underneath the intercooler.

Step 6: Remove the intercooler

With one hand firmly wrapped around the fork in the piping of the intercooler underneath, use your other hand to guide the top of the intercooler past the A/C lines along the firewall as you pull it out. Once it clears the A/C lines, set the intercooler aside in a safe place to avoid damaging any fins or pipes.

Step 7: Access the stock pitch stop mount

With the intercooler removed, you will now have clear access to the stock plastic pitch stop mount located directly underneath where the intercooler was positioned.

Step 8: Remove the pitch stop mount

Using a 14 mm socket and wrench, loosen and remove the nut and bolt that hold the pitch stop mount to the back of the engine/transmission. Then, remove the top bolt that secures the mount to the firewall. You may need to loosen the ground wire right next to the top bolt and move the wire out of the way.

By following these steps carefully, you will have successfully disconnected and removed the pitch stop mount, preparing you for the next steps in installing the oil pan gasket on your 1999 Subaru 2.5.

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Remove the top brackets holding the radiator

To remove the top brackets holding the radiator, start by removing any upper shrouding that covers the upper portion of the radiator. Then, locate the two 12 mm bolts on the radiator upper brackets that hold the radiator in place. With those bolts removed, you can pull the radiator out.

Before removing the radiator, you will need to perform a few other steps. First, remove the splash shield located below the engine to access the radiator drain. This drain is usually on the passenger side of the radiator. Place a drain pan underneath to catch the coolant.

Next, remove the hose clamps using 8 mm or pliers. If you have difficulty accessing the lower hoses, you can skip to the next step, which is fan removal. If the radiator hoses are stuck, use your pliers to grip the hose while rotating it back and forth to free them. You can also lightly cut through them to break the seal if you are replacing the hoses.

Now, remove the fan electrical connectors and then the 10 mm screws that hold the fan assembly in place. Typically, there are three or four screws. With the screws removed, the fans can be taken out.

At this point, you can remove the radiator, following the steps outlined above.

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Frequently asked questions

Yes, you need to lift the engine to access all the bolts. However, you do not need to completely remove the engine.

Use a RTV type sealant, such as Fuji-Bond or Permatex Ultra Gray.

Disconnecting the exhaust is not necessary, but it will make the process easier as it will give you more space to work.

Check the oil pickup tube and replace the O-ring at its base if necessary. Also, make sure to clean out the pan of any debris.

The bolts should be snug, but be careful not to over-tighten as they can strip easily.

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