Removing Oil Pan From Vw Passat 1.8T: Step-By-Step Guide

Removing the oil pan from a VW Passat 1.8T is a complex task that requires careful preparation and execution. The process involves multiple steps, including placing the car in the service position, removing the oil pan engine mount, turbo return line, and various bolts, as well as potentially lowering the sub-frame or jacking up the engine to access hidden bolts. It is crucial to have the necessary tools and follow safety precautions to avoid damage to the vehicle and ensure a successful oil pan removal.

Jack up the engine or drop the subframe

To remove the oil pan from a VW Passat 1.8T, you can either jack up the engine or drop the subframe. Here's a detailed guide on how to do it safely and effectively:

Jack up the engine:

• Prepare the car: Place the car on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. If you have a helper, ask them to keep an eye on the car while you work.
• Lift the car: Use a jack to lift the car and place jack stands under the frame to support the vehicle. Make sure the car is stable and secure before proceeding.
• Locate the engine lifting points: The engine lifting points are usually found near the fenders. You may need to refer to your car's repair manual to identify the exact lifting points for your specific model.
• Position the jack: Place the jack under the engine, making sure it is secure and stable. You may need to use wooden blocks or other supports to distribute the weight evenly and protect the engine and oil pan.
• Raise the engine: Slowly raise the engine using the jack. Take your time and be careful not to place too much stress on any components. Use a wrench to loosen the engine mount bolts if necessary to provide more clearance.
• Secure the engine: Once the engine is raised, use an engine support bar or similar tool to securely hold the engine in the raised position. Make sure the support is rated for the weight of your engine and is securely attached to the engine and the car's frame.
• Remove the oil pan: With the engine raised, you can now access and remove the oil pan. Loosen and remove the bolts or fasteners holding the oil pan in place, being careful not to strip the threads. Lower the oil pan and set it aside.

Drop the subframe:

• Prepare the car: Place the car on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a wrench to prevent any accidents.
• Lift the car: Use a jack to lift the car and place jack stands under the body of the vehicle to support the weight. Make sure the car is stable and secure, and slightly tilt the car forward by lifting the front end higher than the rear.
• Remove wheels and components: Remove the front wheels, steering components, and any other necessary parts to access the subframe. This may include disconnecting wires, hoses, and other components attached to the subframe.
• Locate the subframe bolts: Identify the bolts that hold the subframe in place. There will typically be several bolts on each side of the subframe, as well as bolts attaching the subframe to the engine and transmission.
• Loosen and remove the subframe bolts: Use the appropriate tools to loosen and remove the subframe bolts. Some bolts may be difficult to access, so you may need to use a wrench or socket with an extension. Be careful not to strip the threads.
• Lower the subframe: With the bolts removed, carefully lower the subframe. You may need to use a pry bar or similar tool to gently pry the subframe away from the body of the vehicle. Once the subframe is lowered, you can access the oil pan for removal.
• Remove the oil pan: With the subframe lowered, you can now access and remove the oil pan. Loosen and remove the bolts or fasteners holding the oil pan in place, being careful not to strip the threads. Lower the oil pan and set it aside.

Note: It is important to follow all safety precautions when working on your vehicle. Always use jack stands to support the vehicle, never work alone, and wear appropriate safety gear, including gloves and eye protection.

Remove the oil pan engine mount and turbo return line

To remove the oil pan engine mount and turbo return line, follow these steps:

• Remove the plastic engine covers over the valve cover, air filter, and power steering covers.
• Remove the belly pan.
• Move the coolant reservoir out or disconnect the sensor connector and twist it towards the front of the engine.
• Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
• Remove the bumper cover and move the front radiator support into the service position.
• Remove the 3 M8 cap screws which secure the snub mount arm from the oil pan.
• Remove the 2 M6 cap screws which secure the turbo oil return flange to the oil pan.
• Disconnect the oil level sensor connector.
• Remove the M7 cap screw and clip which secure the transmission coolant lines.
• Remove the plastic clip which holds the A/C line.
• Disconnect the rubber hose from the turbo inlet outlet to the charge pipe.
• Remove the M8 nuts from the bottom of the motor mount studs on both the left and right side of the engine.
• Unclip the black plastic wire guide which holds the positive cable from the battery to the starter.
• Loosen the two M10 bolts in the rear of the flange about ¼”.
• Loosen all 6 bolts on the front sub-frame flanges.
• Loosen the bolts on the transmission mount bolts which are towards the rear of the car about 3/8”.
• Remove the 2 M7 bolts which secure the back of the pan to the rear main seal.
• Remove the 2 M10 bolts on the rear sides of the pan which face up and attach to the engine block.
• Remove the 3 M10 bolts which secure the rear flange to the transmission bell housing.
• Remove the M10 nut and bolt.
• Knock the pan loose with a rubber mallet.

Remove the bottom engine mount bolts

To remove the bottom engine mount bolts, follow these steps:

• Put the car on ramps or jackstands.
• Unplug the negative terminal of the battery.
• Remove the belly pan.
• Open the hood, unscrew the coolant reserve tank, unplug the sensor, and swing it out of the way.
• Remove the 13mm top-nut for the driver's side mount with your 3/8" ratchet and deep-well socket.
• On the passenger side, you'll barely be able to see the grey rubber dome on top of the passenger mount. Over the mount is an aluminium heat-shield; grab a hold of it and bend it upwards away from the mount top-nut. You'll be able to reach the nut from above, even if you can't really get any tools on it from the top.
• Get underneath the car, grab your 1/4" ratchet with a regular 13mm socket, and snake it up through the opening to work it onto the top nut. It'll be a tight fit, and you'll have to use your fingertips to guide the socket onto the nut. The socket won't seat all the way, but for me, it seated enough to get the nut going. If your socket is different from mine or the nut is rusted on, you'll need a stubby wrench to loosen the nut.
• There really isn't enough room to remove the nut with your socket; I worked my off the final distance from above with my fingers.
• Draw a circle around the bottom nut on each side, and draw a mark showing the position of the little "stub" that pokes into one of the slots on the subframe bracket.
• Remove the nuts with your 13mm deep-well. Remove the deep-well from your ratchet.
• There's a large hole about the size of your 13mm socket on the edge of each subframe bracket. If you can work your deep-well socket through all three holes, great! If not, you are possibly going to need an alignment after this is over.
• Remove the sway bar bushing bracket nuts with your 13mm socket. Pry the brackets off with a small screwdriver. If the sway bar drops down on its own, you need new sway bar links. (You don't need them today, just add them to your ToDo list; they are an easy job.) I was able to pull mine sway bar down with a little force. If your sway bar links (the u-shaped bits on the ends) are pretty new, you may have to loosen the sway bar links before you can pull it down.
• Run your jack to the front of the oil pan, put the wood on the saddle, and jack the wood gently, but solidly, on to the pan. You aren't really raising the engine here, just providing some additional support before we pull the mounts.
• Working with/removing/installing on only one mount at a time: We only work on one side at a time because we aren't actually dropping the subframe here. Leaving one side bolted in at all times should preserve your alignment and also mean you aren't really putting much weight on your jack/oil pan. Completely secure one side before moving to the other.
• Break loose the three 18mm subframe bolts with your breaker bar and give them a couple of turns with your ratchet. The front ones are shorter than the rear. Remove the bolts.
• On the passenger side, the mount bracket will not come out very far because of some starter wiring clipped to it. I simply wrestled and cursed and worked the mount out of the car.
• Remove the washer from the old mount and put it on the new.
• Insert the new mount, making sure the little stub on the bottom is near your mark in the slot on the bracket; this ensures the tabs on top of the mount are lined up properly.
• Loosely secure the bottom mount nut.
• Insert the subframe bolts, using blue loctite on the front bolts and a new bolt on the rear. Don't really put any force on them yet.
• Put the top mount nut on, but don't tighten.
• Keeping the bottom nut within your circle, tighten the bottom nut until it's snug, and make sure your little stub remains in the slot.
• Tighten the subframe bolts. I'd suggest checking the alignment with your 13mm socket multiple times to make sure it's on track. If it's a little off before the bracket is really latched down, the mallet can come in handy here.
• Final torque for the rear bolt is 81 ft-lb + 90 degrees. (Because the torque is given as a "+ X degrees", that's usually a signal it's a Torque-To-Yield stretch bolt... it's so important, and so cheap, it's silly NOT to replace it.) The initial torque should be done with your torque wrench, and the 90 degrees done with your breaker bar.
• For the front bolts, it's 55 ft-lb. Technically the manual says these are also one-time bolts, but I think that's just because you've just ruined the factory Loc-Tite. VW apparently doesn't trust its mechanics with Loc-Tite, or is really attached to the idea of selling a lot of new bolts.
• Tighten the top nut until it's good and snug.

Remove the oil level sensor

To remove the oil level sensor, you will first need to disconnect the oil level sensor connector. This is located near the oil pan. Once you have located the sensor, you can then proceed to remove it by unscrewing it in a counter-clockwise direction. Before removing the sensor, make sure to have a container ready to catch any oil that may spill out. Also, make sure to clean the area around the sensor to avoid getting dirt or debris into the oil.

To install the new oil level sensor, follow these steps:

• Clean the area around the sensor mounting hole with a suitable solvent to remove any dirt or oil buildup.
• Apply a small amount of thread-locking compound to the sensor threads. This will help prevent the sensor from coming loose due to vibration.
• Insert the new sensor into the mounting hole and tighten it securely with a wrench. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the sensor or strip the threads.
• Reconnect the sensor electrical connector.
• Refill the engine with the appropriate amount and type of oil for your vehicle.
• Start the engine and check for any leaks around the sensor.

Remove the two hidden bolts behind the flywheel

To remove the two hidden bolts behind the flywheel, you will need to rotate the flywheel until the flywheel access lines up. This will give you the access you need to remove the bolts.

To remove the bolts, you will need to use a 10mm 1/4 socket with a wobbly extension. You can also use a long Allen wrench. If you are using a socket, coat the end of the socket with gum or wax to prevent the bolt from dropping into the bell housing.

If you are reinstalling the bolts, use blue tack on the end of the Allen key to prevent the bolts from falling.

Frequently asked questions