Removing Side Cowl Pan: Evinrude 90Hp Guide

Removing the side cowl pan off a 90hp Evinrude can be a challenging task. The process may vary depending on the model year of the Evinrude. It is recommended to refer to the owner's manual or seek assistance from a certified technician. However, based on discussions in online forums, some individuals have suggested removing the pan screws, which are typically four in total, two on the top and two on the bottom. Others have suggested wiggling the cowling to create enough space to access the latch and unfasten it. It is important to note that force should not be applied excessively to avoid damaging the cowling.

Removing the pan screws

To remove the pan screws, you will need to first identify how many there are and where they are located. In this case, there are four pan screws, with two located at the top and two at the bottom.

Once you have located the pan screws, you can begin the removal process. Using the correct size tool, loosen the screws by turning them counterclockwise. It is important to note that you should not remove the screws completely, just loosen them enough to allow you to tilt the pan.

After loosening the screws, you can carefully tilt the pan to gain better access to the thermostat housing bolts. This will provide you with the necessary space to work on the bolts without completely removing the pan.

If you encounter any broken bolts, you may need to consider alternative methods such as drilling and tapping, or cutting the cowling for better access. However, these methods should be approached with caution, as they may require the assistance of a trained technician.

In some cases, removing the power head may be necessary to gain better access to the pan screws and perform the required maintenance or repairs. This process can be complex, so it is recommended to refer to the service manual or seek assistance from a certified technician if you are uncomfortable proceeding on your own.

Accessing broken bolts

A broken bolt can be difficult to remove, especially if it has broken due to corrosion. If this is the case, the chances of successful removal are low, and it has likely become permanently stuck. However, if the bolt sheared off due to a material failure, there are a few methods you can try.

Firstly, you can try to remove the bolt with a chisel. Place the chisel at the base of the bolt and strike it with a hammer. This may be enough to remove the bolt, and you can then unscrew it out of the hole.

If the bolt is too tight to be removed with a chisel, you will need to drill it out. Before you begin, place the center punch as close to the middle of the broken bolt as possible and hit it with a hammer to create a starting point for drilling. Drilling a precise pilot hole will help you avoid damaging the threads of the bolt when you extract it.

Once you have made the pilot hole, you can try using a left-handed drill bit to remove the bolt. Left-handed drill bits are threaded in the opposite direction, so the reverse setting on your drill will drive the bit in. This will help to stop the bolt from being driven in tighter. If you are lucky, the left-handed bit will grab and unscrew the bolt enough for you to finish removing it with a pair of vice grips.

If the bolt is still not budging, you will need to switch to an extraction bit. Check your extraction kit’s table for the right size bit for the bolt and gently tap it into the pilot hole with a hammer. Then, using a very slow reverse-drilling setting, drill into the pilot hole. The broken bolt should soon grab onto the extraction bit and begin to loosen. Continue slowly and steadily until the entire bolt has been fully extracted.

Finally, remove any metal shavings left behind by the broken bolt using a magnet or compressed air.

Removing the powerhead

Firstly, remove the lower unit and the six bolts and four nuts holding the powerhead in place. It is important to protect the threads of the nuts and use a sturdy pry bar to gain some movement. If the powerhead is stubborn, you can try chaining the motor to a cherry picker and applying pressure in hopes that it breaks loose.

If corrosion is an issue, as is often the case, use a rust penetrator and apply heat intermittently. A rubber mallet can also be used to gently bash the powerhead, encouraging it to loosen. For severely corroded parts, a hefty pry bar can be used to pry the block area, but be cautious to avoid damage.

If you encounter broken bolts, you can try drilling them out. Apply tension with a lift and use a punch to strike the bolt. This may require some force and persistence. If the issue is suspected to be with the piston ring, causing a loss of compression, you may need to replace the pistons.

A unique trick to try involves addressing the studs that go through the block to the exhaust adapter. These studs can become locked due to the growth of aluminum oxide, resulting in a white powdery substance. To address this, visually locate the line of the stud as it goes through the exhaust adapter and drill into the side of the adapter along that line. This will cut through the stud, and you can increase the drill size to eventually cut through it completely. This will require good hand-eye coordination and a small drill. Once all four stuck bolts are drilled through, the block should come off.

Remember to always exercise caution and seek professional assistance if you are uncomfortable with any of the steps or procedures.

Drilling and tapping broken bolts

One method to remove broken bolts is to use an extracting kit. This involves center punching the broken bolt to mark the center, then drilling a pilot hole with a left-handed drill bit. Left-handed bits are threaded in the opposite direction, so the reverse setting on your drill will drive the bit in. The counterclockwise movement of the left-handed bit will prevent the bolt from being driven in tighter. Choose the appropriate size drill bit to avoid damaging the threads on the bolt or requiring a smaller, weaker extractor. Place the extracting bit into the hole and gently tap it with a hammer before switching to a socket or T-handle. As you tighten the extractor, the tapered end will catch, and the torque will loosen the bolt. Continue turning the extractor counterclockwise until the bolt is removed.

Another method for removing broken bolts is welding. This technique is useful for bolts that are too corroded for an extractor. Start by center punching the bolt and drilling out the center with a right-handed bit. Then, thread a hex nut onto the bolt, tightening it firmly but backing it off slightly so it's not completely flush with the surface. Weld the bolt to the nut, being careful not to melt the surface the bolt is embedded in. Once the weld has cooled, use a socket or wrench to remove the hex nut, which now serves as the bolt's new head.

In addition to these methods, you can also try using a hammer and chisel to turn the broken bolt. Place the chisel against the neck of the bolt and strike it with a hammer to create counterclockwise movement. This can help the bolt protrude enough to drill it out.

Cutting the cowling

Before starting, make sure you have the right tools for the job. You will need a cutting tool such as a jigsaw or a rotary tool, as well as the appropriate safety equipment, including eye protection and gloves. It is also recommended to work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respirator to avoid inhaling any debris or fumes.

First, you will need to locate the cowling. The cowling is the cover that protects the engine of your Evinrude outboard motor. It is typically made of fibreglass or plastic and can be removed for maintenance or replacement. Once you have located the cowling, you will need to determine the best place to cut it. It is important to avoid cutting any wires or hoses that may be located inside. Take your time and plan the cut carefully to avoid any damage to the engine or its components.

When you are ready to begin cutting, start by clamping the cowling to a workbench or stable surface to hold it securely in place. Mark the cut line with a marker or tape to ensure a straight and precise cut. Using your chosen cutting tool, begin cutting along the marked line, applying gentle pressure to avoid chipping or cracking the cowling. If you are using a power tool, make sure it is set to the appropriate speed and always cut away from yourself to prevent injury. Take your time and go slowly, as rushing may result in an uneven cut or damage to the underlying components.

Once you have cut through the cowling, use a file or sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges. It is important to remove any sharp burrs or jagged pieces that could cause injury or damage to nearby components. Finally, you can dispose of the cut cowling responsibly, ensuring that any plastic or metal pieces are recycled appropriately. Remember to refer to your engine's manual or seek professional assistance if you are unsure about any part of the process.

Frequently asked questions