Replacing an oil pan gasket in a Subaru Forester can be a challenging task, but with the right tools and knowledge, it is certainly achievable. The process involves removing the engine oil, lifting the engine, and accessing hard-to-reach bolts. It is crucial to clean the surfaces properly and apply a new gasket or silicone sealant correctly to prevent leaks. Some owners opt to upgrade to a Killer B oil pickup to reduce the chances of engine failure due to oil pressure loss. This process can be made easier by having the engine outside of the car, but it is possible to complete the job with the engine still installed.
Replacing the oil pan gasket in a Subaru Forester
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Difficulty | Very difficult |
Required tools | Jack, jack stands, 10mm socket, torque wrench, 1/4" extensions, 1/4" wobble, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, pliers, car jack, gasket remover tool, paint scraper, rubber mallet, pan separator |
Time required | Several hours |
Cost | Varies depending on parts and tools required |
Vehicle-specific considerations | Need to free up engine/transmission by removing TMIC and factory dog bone mount; need to lift engine to access all screws; oil pan seal is silicone, so surfaces must be completely oil-free to prevent leaks |
What You'll Learn
Removing the oil drain plug
To remove the oil drain plug, you will need to get under the car. Place jacks in a safe area that holds the car stable but doesn't interfere with the area you need to work in. You can use the factory U-brace for this.
Now, locate the motor mount nuts under the car. They are 14mm and hiding behind the sway bar. If you have an upgraded sway bar, they may not be accessible, and lowering the sway bar may be necessary.
Next, use the jack and a plank of wood and place it on the transmission below the axles. Alternatively, you can use the factory exhaust for this.
Now, drain the oil.
If your engine is still in the car, you will need to get into an odd position to access the oil drain plug. You will need to remove the TMIC and undo the factory dog bone mount to free up the engine/transmission to be able to lift it. You can also remove the 10mm bolt that holds the oil dipstick in place.
With the car in the air, you can now remove the oil drain plug.
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Lifting the engine
Preparation:
Before lifting the engine, there are a few preparatory steps to ensure a smooth process:
- Remove the TMIC (top-mount intercooler) and undo the factory dog bone mount. This step frees up the engine and transmission, making them easier to lift.
- Lift your car off the ground using a jack to provide adequate workspace underneath. Place jack stands in a safe area that holds the car stable without interfering with your work area.
- Locate the motor mount nuts under the car. They are typically 14mm nuts hidden behind the sway bar. If you have an upgraded sway bar, you may need to lower it for better access.
- Prepare a jack and a plank of wood or use the factory exhaust to support the transmission below the axles. This step will help lift the engine and transmission together.
- Consider removing the exhaust manifold/header to gain more working room. This step is optional but can make the process easier.
Once the preparations are complete, you can start the engine lifting process:
- Remove the oil dipstick tube by leveraging it off with a pair of pliers. Be careful not to crush the tube, as it contains two o-rings inside.
- With the dipstick tube removed, locate the four bolts at the back of the oil pan. These bolts are challenging to access and require a 10mm socket with extensions and a wobble.
- After removing all the bolts on the oil pan, use a flat paint scraper or a gasket remover tool to break the gasket seal. Tap the paint scraper through the gasket material with a mallet, twisting it back and forth to release the hold. Alternatively, you can lightly strike the side of the oil pan to break the gasket free, being careful not to damage the pan if you plan to reuse it.
- Once the gasket seal is broken, carefully lift the engine using the jack. Place a piece of wood or other sturdy material between the jack and the transmission to distribute the weight evenly.
- Ensure that the engine is securely lifted and will not drop. Watch your fingers and be cautious when working around the lifted engine.
- With the engine lifted, you should now have better access to the bolts at the back of the oil pan. Use a ratchet with a universal joint to reach these bolts and remove them.
Lowering the Engine:
After completing the necessary repairs or maintenance, it is crucial to lower the engine safely:
- Before lowering the engine, ensure that all bolts and components are securely fastened. Double-check your work to avoid any leaks or issues.
- Carefully reverse the lifting process by slowly lowering the engine using the jack. Maintain stability and control during this process.
- Once the engine is lowered back into place, reattach the motor mount nuts and any other components that were removed during the preparation.
- Double-check all connections and ensure that everything is securely fastened before starting the car.
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Removing the dipstick tube
Firstly, locate the dipstick tube by looking for a thin metal tube that is attached to the engine block. The tube will have a small handle at the top that you can grab onto. In some models, there may be a bracket or bolt holding the tube in place, so you will need to remove this first before proceeding.
Next, use a pair of pliers to gently leverage the tube away from the engine block. Be careful not to crush the tube, as it contains two o-rings inside that can be difficult to remove. Once you have successfully removed the tube, set it aside, being mindful of the attached hoses and the timing cover.
If you are having trouble removing the tube, you may need to extend your reach by using a combination of 1/4" extensions, a wobble extension, and a universal joint attached to a 10mm socket. This setup will allow you to access the hard-to-reach bolts that secure the tube in place.
Once all the bolts are removed, the tube should come free. If it is still stuck, use a flat paint scraper to gently wedge between the tube and the engine block, tapping it through with a mallet if necessary. Alternatively, you can try lightly striking the side of the tube to help break the seal. Always take care not to damage the tube or the engine during this process.
After successfully removing the dipstick tube, you may want to install fresh seals, especially if your vehicle has high mileage. To do this, lubricate the new seals and line up the tube with the oil pan. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the top of the tube until you feel it pop into place.
By following these steps, you will be able to successfully remove and replace the dipstick tube on your Subaru Forester, ensuring accurate oil readings and preventing leaks.
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Removing the oil pan
To remove the oil pan from your Subaru Forester, first lift your car off the ground to give you adequate workspace. Drain the oil. Locate the motor mount nuts under the car—they are 14 mm and hiding behind the sway bar. If you have an upgraded sway bar, you may need to lower it to access the nuts.
Next, place a jack and a plank of wood on the transmission below the axles. You can also use the factory exhaust for this step instead of the transmission.
Now you can remove the manifold/header to give you more working room. This step is easier with the manifold off, but it can be completed with the manifold on.
Remove the dipstick tube by leveraging it off with a pair of pliers. Be careful not to crush the tube. There are two o-rings inside that can be difficult to remove.
Now, you can start removing the oil pan. All the bolts on the oil pan are 10mm and can be removed in any order. Four bolts are difficult to access and will require a 1/4" extension set and a 1/4" wobble set.
With all the bolts removed, the oil pan is probably still stuck to the engine due to the gasket seal. To break the seal, use a flat paint scraper to wedge between the engine block and the pan. Tap the paint scraper through the gasket material with a mallet, twisting it back and forth to help break away the gasket and release the hold. Alternatively, you can lightly strike the side of the oil pan to help break the gasket free, being careful not to damage the pan if you are reusing it.
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Breaking the gasket seal
Clean the Engine and Identify the Leak:
Start by cleaning your engine with a degreaser. This will help you identify the source of the oil leak. Follow the trail of oil to its highest point. If it leads to the top of the oil pan, you'll need to proceed with the gasket replacement.
Gather the Necessary Tools and Information:
Before breaking the gasket seal, ensure you have the correct oil pan gasket replacement for your Subaru Forester. Refer to your service manual or consult a mechanic to identify the specific gasket type required. Additionally, gather the necessary tools, such as a mallet, solvent, and a service manual.
Remove the Oil and Necessary Components:
Drain the oil from the pan and remove any necessary parts and brackets that may obstruct access to the oil pan and its bolts. This step will vary depending on your vehicle's make and model, so refer to your service manual for detailed instructions.
Locate and Remove the Oil Pan Bolts:
Using your service manual, identify all the bolt locations for the oil pan. Some bolts may be hidden behind other parts. Remove these bolts one by one. It's crucial to double-check that all bolts are removed before attempting to remove the oil pan.
Break the Gasket Seal:
Once all the bolts are removed, you can break the gasket seal. Gently tap the oil pan with a mallet to separate it from the engine block. Be cautious not to use excessive force, as it may damage the oil pan or the engine block.
Clean the Sealing Surfaces:
After removing the oil pan, scrape off any remaining gasket residue from the engine block and the oil pan. Clean all sealing surfaces thoroughly with a solvent to ensure that the new gasket forms a tight seal.
Additional Tips:
- Before breaking the gasket seal, inspect the oil pan for any metal shavings, cracks, or other potential issues.
- When removing the oil pan, be cautious not to bend or damage it.
- Some oil pan gaskets require the use of sealants or grease to hold them in position. Refer to the gasket's instructions for specific requirements.
- Always torque the oil pan bolts to the manufacturer's specifications in a spiral pattern, starting from the center.
- After reinstalling the oil pan and refilling the engine with oil, start the engine and carefully inspect for any leaks.
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Frequently asked questions
If the engine is outside the car, you will need a 10mm socket and torque wrench. If the engine is inside the car, you will need to add a set of 1/4" extensions, a 1/4" wobble, a 12mm and 14mm socket to your tool set.
All the bolts on the oil pan are 10mm and can be removed in any order. Four bolts are hard to reach and will require a wobble and extension set. Once the bolts are removed, use a flat paint scraper to wedge between the engine block and pan to break the gasket seal.
Clean the engine oil pan mating surface with a straight razor or gasket remover tool. Apply a small bead of silicone to the surface, taking care not to overdo it. Seat the pan quickly, adding a few bolts to keep it from falling. Run the bolts in with your preferred method and follow a criss-cross pattern to torque the bolts down.
After installing the new oil pan, fill the engine with oil and start the car for 5-15 seconds to check for leaks. If there are no leaks, start the car for an extended period and take it for a short drive to double-check your work.