Emilie Meyer
Installing a shower pan requires careful preparation to ensure it is watertight, durable, and properly sloped for drainage. The process involves several steps, including preparing the subfloor, installing a vapour barrier, creating a slope towards the drain, and connecting the plumbing. The shower pan should be installed on a flat, level surface, and the entire process should be done carefully to avoid future issues. While it is possible to create a shower floor using a pan liner and tile, a ready-made shower pan, such as the 36x60 ProPan shower pan, makes installation easier and can be installed in less than an hour.
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What You'll Learn
Ensure the subfloor is level
To ensure that the subfloor is level, you must first check if it is uneven. Place a long level or straight pipe on the subfloor and move it around to different areas. Mark any high or low spots with a pencil or marker. If the subfloor is plywood or particleboard, screw down any loose boards or plywood sheets. Add more wood screws if needed to secure them. Replace any nails with screws. If the subfloor is made of wood, you will need to sand down any high spots. Use a sander and keep checking the floor with a level as you sand it.
If your floor is concrete, use a concrete grinder for large areas or an angle grinder with a cup-wheel attachment for concrete. Grinding concrete will create concrete dust, so be sure to wear a respirator. Keep checking the floor with a level as you grind. When you are finished, vacuum the floor thoroughly with a wet-dry vacuum or sweep with a broom. Make a final check with the level to ensure all high spots are gone.
If your subfloor has minor irregularities, adding plywood underlayment is usually sufficient. Use the thickest plywood practical for your situation. Plan the layout of the plywood sheets so the long dimension runs perpendicular to the floor joists. Make sure the joints between the sheets in the underlayment are offset from the joints in the subfloor by about one-half sheet. The short sides of the plywood sheets must be centred over the joists for support.
If the subfloor has more significant irregularities, you can use a self-levelling compound. Pour a generous amount of the level compound onto the subfloor and spread it with a trowel, allowing it to settle into low areas. Remove any excess and feather the edges so it blends with the rest of the floor. Let the leveller dry overnight or as indicated by the manufacturer. After it dries, sand down any high spots and vacuum away the dust.
If the cause of floor irregularities can be traced to a warped or broken floor joist, it is best to correct this structural problem to ensure the floor's strength. If you have access to the joists from underneath the floor, a sagging or cracked joist can be reinforced with a sister joist inserted alongside the bad joist and screwed to it.
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Install a vapour barrier
To install a vapour barrier, you must first remove the materials of the existing shower wall. These materials vary depending on the age of your bathroom, but you will most likely find drywall or lath and plaster. Removal should not be difficult if you have a metal wrecking bar.
Next, check the wall cavities for rot or mould. If there is mould, treat it with bleach and let the wall dry overnight. Take the vapour barrier roll and roll it onto the wall, ensuring it is 2 inches below the footing. This will prevent water from seeping into the floor. Make sure you place a double layer of the barrier on all joints as they are the most vulnerable part. Nails or staples can be used to attach the barrier to the studs, keeping a 2-foot space between attachment points to ensure the barrier stays in place.
It is important to note that the vapour barrier should not be placed behind the backer board. Instead, use materials such as cement boards, which allow moisture to pass through to the vapour barrier and then evaporate.
Vapour barriers have perm ratings. For residential use, the perm rating must be below 1.0 perms, and for commercial use, it must be below 0.5 perms.
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Create a slope towards the drain
Creating an effective slope towards the drain is crucial for optimal water drainage in your shower. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you achieve this:
Step 1: Calculate the Slope
Start by measuring the distance from the drain to the farthest wall in feet. The recommended slope is 1/4 inch per foot, so multiply the distance by 0.25 to get the required slope. For example, if your drain is 3 feet from the wall, you'll need a slope of 0.75 inches (3 x 0.25 = 0.75). Don't forget to add an extra 1/2 inch to this calculation to determine the high point of your mortar bed.
Step 2: Prepare the Subfloor
Ensure that your subfloor is completely flat and level. If it isn't, apply a self-leveling compound following the manufacturer's instructions. Use a compound that is compatible with your subfloor material (OSB, cement board, plywood, etc.). Run the compound up to the line you drew when dry-fitting the shower pan. If needed, screw a piece of 1x2 along the line to act as a dam to contain the compound.
Step 3: Mark the High Point
Use the calculation from Step 1 to mark the high point of your mortar bed. Extend this mark around the entire perimeter of the shower. For instance, if your calculation resulted in a high point of 1.25 inches, make a mark 1.25 inches above the subfloor along the perimeter.
Step 4: Create the Slope
Dump enough dry pack sand mix into the shower base to form a level perimeter around the shower pan, following the high-point marks. Pack the perimeter layer with a rubber or wooden float, tamping the material down. Use a hand level to ensure that the perimeter remains level. Once the perimeter is level, fill in the center of the shower pan to establish a rough slope from the edges to the drain. Keep packing down the material as you work.
Step 5: Smooth the Slope
After achieving a rough slope, use a straight edge to confirm that you have a smooth slope from the edge to the drain in all directions. Make adjustments by adding more material where necessary and continue packing it down. Let this pre-slope bed cure for about 24 hours before moving on.
Step 6: Final Touches
Once the pre-slope bed has cured, make a final pass with a steel finish trowel to establish a smooth finish surface. You can now proceed with the installation of your chosen shower pan, ensuring that it is set on a flat, level surface.
Remember, adequate drainage is essential to prevent water stagnation and the growth of mold and mildew. By following these steps, you can create an effective slope towards the drain, ensuring a comfortable and hygienic showering experience.
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Install a shower base
Installing a shower base is a complex task that requires careful planning and execution. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:
Step 1: Prepare the Subfloor
Ensure that the subfloor area where the shower pan will be installed is completely flat and level. If the subfloor is not level, apply a self-levelling compound following the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to use a compound that adheres to the substrate you are installing it on (OSB, cement board, plywood, etc.). Allow the compound to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 2: Dry-Fit the Shower Pan
Place the shower pan in the desired location and draw a reference line along its edge onto the subfloor. Drill holes in the flange at each stud location and check if the shower drain hole aligns with the existing drain. If not, trace the hole location, cut a hole for the drain pipe, and relocate the P-trap as necessary.
Step 3: Install the Cleavage Membrane
Cut a sheet of building paper or roofing felt to fit the bottom of the shower base. This will act as a cleavage membrane. Install metal lath or reinforcement over the membrane, securing it to the subfloor with nails or staples.
Step 4: Calculate the Floor Slope
Measure the distance from the drain to the farthest wall in feet to calculate the floor slope. The target is a 1/4" slope per foot from the wall to the drain. Mark the high point of your mortar bed by multiplying the distance by 0.25 and adding 1/2". Extend this mark around the perimeter of the shower. Set the drain flange 1/2" above the subfloor as a reference point.
Step 5: Prepare the Mortar Bed
Place a layer of clean gravel or crushed tile around the shower drain to keep the weep holes clear. Build the pre-slope mortar bed according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Plug the drain to keep it clear during installation. Allow the mortar bed to cure for 24 hours before tiling.
Step 6: Install the Shower Drain Flange
Line the underside of the shower drain flange with latex/acrylic or silicone caulk, following the manufacturer's instructions. Place the flange through the top side of the shower pan and press down without twisting. Wipe away any excess caulk. On the underside of the pan, install the rubber washer, friction washer, and locking ring according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 7: Finalize the Installation
After the mortar bed has cured, use a steel finishing trowel to smooth it out. Begin tiling within 16 hours of mortar bed installation. Ensure you have the necessary plumbing permits and inspections, especially when structural repairs to the subfloor are needed. Consider purchasing a new shower valve and replacing the shower head and bathtub spout if desired.
Please note that this guide provides a general overview of the process, and specific steps may vary depending on the shower pan and your local building codes. Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions and consult professional advice if needed.
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Seal the shower drain
To set a 36x60 shower pan on a floating floor, you must first ensure the subfloor is flat and level. If it is not, apply a self-levelling compound, allowing it to cure before proceeding.
Now, you need to prepare the shower drain. First, ensure the shower drain hole lines up with the existing shower drain. If not, cut a hole in the subfloor for the shower drain pipe. Next, relocate the P-trap for the shower drain and pipe so that the waste pipe extends approximately 1 3/4 inches above the subfloor.
Now, you can seal the shower drain. Here is a step-by-step guide:
Step 1:
Remove the drain grate or cover to access the drain.
Step 2:
If your drain is leaking, loosen the drain from the shower base. Remove all old putty with a putty knife and roughen the surfaces with coarse sandpaper. Clean the shower base and drain surfaces thoroughly.
Step 3:
Apply a self-levelling polyurethane sealant to the cleaned area. Ensure you fill the void completely, being careful not to trap any air. Allow the sealant to cure for a couple of days.
Step 4:
Replace the drain grate or cover.
If you are installing a new shower drain, follow these steps:
Step 1:
Line the underside of the shower drain flange's rim with latex/acrylic or silicone caulk. In some cases, plumber's putty may degrade the shower pan material, so check the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 2:
Place the flange through the top side of the shower pan and press down firmly without twisting, allowing excess caulk to squeeze out. Wipe away the excess caulk before it dries.
Step 3:
On the underside of the shower pan, place a rubber washer around the threads of the flange, followed by a friction washer.
Step 4:
Screw on the locking ring, tightening the gasket and friction washer between it and the bottom of the shower pan.
Finally, ensure you have a smooth slope from the edges of the shower pan to the drain. Use a straight edge to confirm, adding more material where necessary. Allow the pre-slope bed to cure for 24 hours before tiling.
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