Tillie Doyle
Shortening a VW pan for a dune buggy involves removing 14 and a quarter inches from the straight section of the tunnel behind the emergency brake handle. This process requires careful measurement and cutting, as well as welding to strengthen the tunnel and ensure a neat finish. The body must be lifted off the chassis, and the engine removed, before the pan can be turned over and the bottom welded. Additionally, the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines may need to be shortened, and the brake cables adjusted or replaced.
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What You'll Learn
Removing the body from the frame
Preparation:
First, gather the necessary tools and resources. You will need four helpers, two 12-foot 2x6s, and four sawhorses. Additionally, ensure you have access to a winch and a safe, sturdy structure to attach it to, such as rafters or a sturdy beam.
Lifting the Body:
Start by lifting the front of the VW body off the frame. Use the 2x6s to carefully lift the front end, and slip them under the wheel wells. Support each side with sawhorses to ensure stability. Repeat this process at the rear of the vehicle. Ensure that the body is securely supported and lifted high enough to access the frame underneath.
Removing the Bolts:
With the body securely lifted, it's time to remove the bolts connecting the body to the frame. Use an air-powered impact wrench to quickly remove all the bolts from the channel under the outer edge of the frame. Don't forget to remove the four bolts in the middle of the underside of the car, located just in front of the rear torsion bar housing.
Lowering the Frame:
Once all the bolts are removed, you can now lower or roll out the frame from under the body. Carefully control the descent of the body to ensure it remains stable and doesn't shift or tilt unexpectedly.
Final Preparations:
Before beginning the shortening process, clean and prepare the frame thoroughly. Remove the engine due to its weight, and turn the pan over to access the bottom for welding.
Remember to take all necessary safety precautions during this process, including wearing appropriate protective gear and ensuring your work area is secure and free of hazards.
With the body successfully removed from the frame, you can now proceed to the next steps of shortening your VW pan for your dune buggy project.
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Cutting and welding the frame
Preparation:
First, you'll need to lift the body of the VW off the chassis. This can be done with the help of assistants and equipment, or by using a winch and structural support, as described by some VW enthusiasts. Once the body is lifted, the frame can be rolled out from under it. Before cutting and welding, it's important to clean and prepare the frame. The engine must be removed due to its weight, and the pan must be turned over to access the bottom for welding.
Cutting the Frame:
The specific cut locations may vary depending on the desired shortening method and the type of VW pan you're working with. One common approach is to cut 14-1/4 inches straight across the frame, directly behind the emergency brake handle, and then make additional cuts to the rear half to ensure the sides match when rejoined. This method involves removing bolts from the channel under the outer edge of the frame and from the middle of the underside of the car, just in front of the rear torsion bar housing.
Another approach, suitable for a dune buggy, is to cut out 10 inches in a delta or chevron pattern and then overlap the edges before welding to achieve the desired shortened length.
Welding the Frame:
After making the necessary cuts, you'll need to weld the frame back together to achieve the desired shortened length. This process requires careful measurement and execution. If you're using shortened cables, ensure that the tubes are intact up to the rear of the hand brake cable opening. Measure the distance from the forward tunnel cut to the front of the emergency brake tubes, and mark this distance on the tubes. Sever the tubes at the marked point.
If you're unable to obtain shortened cables, you can use full-length cables and coil them inside the tunnel. In this case, cut the emergency brake tubes behind the front tunnel cut, leaving a short section attached under the rear of the brake handle.
To strengthen the tunnel weld, cut a 1-1/2 inch wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the top of the weld. Additionally, if there are slots next to the emergency hand brake for heater controls, these slots must be welded shut and reinforced with additional strips. Cut the remaining tunnel piece lengthwise into 1-1/2 inch wide strips and weld them into place, both below the hand brake opening and over the heater slots.
Finally, remember to shorten the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines protruding from the rear of the chassis, using the measurements taken before cutting the chassis. Reinstall the fuel line grommet and braze the clutch and accelerator cable tubes to the edge of the pan, just below the rear access cover.
This process requires careful planning and execution, and it's always beneficial to consult detailed guides and seek advice from experienced VW enthusiasts and mechanics.
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Strengthening the tunnel weld
To strengthen the tunnel weld, cut a 1-1/2 inch-wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the top of the tunnel weld. If your pan has slots next to the emergency hand brake for heater controls, weld these shut and strengthen them by cutting the remaining piece of the tunnel lengthwise into 1-1/2-inch-wide strips. Weld one strip on each side of the tunnel on the vertical surface just below the hand brake opening. Next, cut narrow strips and weld them over the heater slots and to the upper edge of the straps that were just welded into place.
It is extremely important to correctly weld the tunnel back together to restore the structural integrity of the frame. A MIG wire-feed welder is recommended for the welding process. However, it is possible to steel braze with oxygen-acetylene gas. An arc welder is not recommended as the material is so thin that it will likely melt holes in the metal.
Spend more time measuring for accurate alignment than welding. When the tunnel is not correctly welded and strengthened, the car is likely to break in half.
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Reinstalling the fuel line grommet
To reinstall the fuel line grommet, you must first shorten the clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines that are sticking out the rear of the chassis. Use the measurements taken before the chassis was cut in half to ensure the correct length.
Next, you will need to reinstall the fuel line grommet to prevent any rattling. After this, braze the clutch and accelerator cable tubes to the edge of the pan, just under the rear access cover.
To strengthen the tunnel weld, cut a 1-1/2 inch-wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the top of the tunnel weld. If your pan has slots next to the emergency hand brake for heater controls, weld these shut and strengthen them with the cut strips. Cut the remaining piece of the tunnel lengthwise into 1-1/2 inch-wide strips. Weld one strip to each side of the tunnel on the vertical surface, just below the hand brake opening.
Finally, ensure that you have the correct length of cables. If you have shortened cables, keep the tubes intact up to the rear of the hand brake cable opening. If not, the full-length cables will need to be coiled up inside the tunnel.
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Converting hand wheel heat control
To shorten a VW pan for a dune buggy, the body must be removed from the frame. This is done by first removing all the bolts from the channel under the outer edge of the frame with an air-powered impact wrench. There are also four bolts that must be removed from the middle of the underside of the car, just in front of the rear torsion bar housing. Then, remove the two bolts under the rear wheel wells that attach the body to the rear cast suspension members. Additionally, there are two bolts under the rear seat that attach to the rear cast suspension members, and the last two bolts are located in front of the gas tank, connecting to the top of the front suspension beams. Before lifting the body off, it is important to disconnect the steering shaft at the steering box, remove the speedometer cable, disconnect the heater box control wires, and all wiring connecting to the engine and the master brake cylinder.
Once the body is removed, the frame needs to be cleaned and prepared for shortening. The engine must be removed due to its weight, and the pan must be turned over to weld the bottom. The location for the cut is a straight section of the tunnel directly behind the emergency brake handle, on a line with the rear of the seat support rails. The cut is 14-1/4 inches long, and the two halves will not match perfectly when put back together due to the non-parallel sides of the VW pan.
Now, we will focus on converting the hand wheel heat control. If the pan has slots next to the emergency hand brake for heater controls, these slots must be welded shut and strengthened. Cut a 1-1/2 inch wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the top of the tunnel weld to strengthen it. Cut the remaining tunnel piece lengthwise into more 1-1/2 inch wide strips. Weld one strip on each side of the tunnel on the vertical surface just below the hand brake opening. Cut narrow strips and weld them over the heater slots and to the upper edge of the straps that were just welded.
The clutch, accelerator, and fuel lines that are sticking out the rear of the chassis must also be shortened. Use the measurements taken before the chassis was cut in half to ensure the correct length. Reinstall the fuel line grommet to prevent rattling, and braze the clutch and accelerator cable tubes to the edge of the pan just under the rear access cover.
Finally, to strengthen the tunnel weld, cut another 1-1/2 inch wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the weld. This will ensure a strong and secure connection.
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Frequently asked questions
You can lift the body off the chassis by hooking a winch to a sturdy rafter or getting four helpers to lift the front and rear of the body off the frame with the help of 2X6's and saw horses.
Use the measurements for the correct length that were made before the chassis was cut in half. Re-install the fuel line grommet and braze the clutch and accelerator cable tubes to the edge of the pan just under the rear access cover.
It is recommended to cut out 14-1/4 inches straight across the frame and then cut darts out of the rear half to make the two sides match when put back together.
Measure the distance from the forward tunnel cut to the front of the emergency brake tubes and mark this distance on the rear tunnel cut. Sever the tubes at this point and remove the short sections. Put a hose clamp around the front of the remaining tubes so they will come together when the pan halves are shoved together.
Cut a 1-1/2 inch wide strip from the removed tunnel piece and weld it over the top of the tunnel weld. Cut the remaining tunnel piece lengthwise into 1-1/2 inch wide strips and weld one strip on each side of the tunnel below the hand brake opening. Alternatively, you can create rails out of steel that bolt at the 2 bolt mounts at the front and rear of the floor pan.
