The French Fondue: A Provincial Cheese Delight

Fondue is a Swiss dish, popularised in the 1930s by the Swiss Cheese Union as a way of increasing cheese consumption. However, its roots can be traced back to the French Rhône-Alpes region near the Geneva border. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zürich, under the name Käss mit Wein zu kochen ('to cook cheese with wine'). It calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it. Today, fondue is widely available in France, especially in Alpine areas along the Swiss border, and it is considered a winter dish.

The first written recipes for fondue

The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zürich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "to cook cheese with wine". The recipe calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it.

In the 18th century, fondue was a means for farm families to stretch their limited resources during the winter months. With some remaining cheese, stale bread, and wine, the family could gather around the hearth. In Alpine farm villages, bread was baked only occasionally, so whatever bread was on hand was usually stale. By dipping the bread in the melted cheese, it was softened and became more palatable.

Fondue may have had rural roots, but it was more frequently enjoyed by people of means. The widespread popularization of fondue was part of a 1930s campaign by the Swiss Cheese Union to increase cheese consumption in Switzerland. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union resumed its campaign, promoting fondue as the Swiss national dish and a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

The Swiss Cheese Union's role in popularising fondue

Fondue, derived from the French verb "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in Switzerland in the 18th century. It was a dish created by farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the winter months. By melting their remaining cheese and dipping stale bread into it, they were able to soften the bread and create a hearty meal.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) played a pivotal role in popularising fondue as a Swiss national dish. The Union was a powerful marketing and trading organisation that controlled cheese production in Switzerland from 1914 to 1999. They restricted production to a few varieties, mainly Gruyere and Emmental, and bought the entire production and distribution of cheese at prices set by the Swiss Federal Council.

The Swiss Cheese Union's intensive marketing campaigns in the 1930s were aimed at increasing cheese consumption in Switzerland. They promoted fondue as a traditional Alpine specialty, invoking iconic Swiss imagery such as Heidi and skiers in their advertisements. These campaigns were so successful that fondue became popular throughout Switzerland, transforming it from a regional dish to a national one. The Union also created pseudo-regional recipes as part of the "spiritual defence of Switzerland".

After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union continued its marketing efforts, sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across the country. They positioned fondue as a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity. In the 1960s, fondue gained popularity in North America, particularly after it was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant at the 1964 New York World's Fair. Aggressive advertising campaigns in the 1970s further boosted the dish's popularity, with advertisements featuring attractive Swiss people in ski sweaters partying over pots of cheese.

How to eat fondue

Fondue, a Swiss dish, is a delightful blend of melted cheese and wine, served in a communal pot and eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks. Here are some tips on how to eat fondue like a true Swiss:

Keep it Clean

Use your front teeth to take the bread from your fork, avoiding contact with your lips and tongue. This is important because the same fork will be going back into the communal pot. Keep your plate and table clean by twirling the cheese-covered bread before bringing it to your mouth, preventing any drips or mess.

Stir Strategically

Stir the fondue in a clockwise direction or in a figure-eight pattern. This helps keep the cheese homogenized all the way to the bottom of the pot, ensuring a consistent texture and taste.

Avoid Double-Dipping

Double-dipping is a big no-no. It is considered unsanitary and frowned upon. Make sure your bread is securely attached to your fork before dipping, and if you accidentally lose a piece of bread in the pot, be prepared for some friendly teasing or a playful penalty, like buying a round of drinks or singing a song.

Pair it Properly

When it comes to beverages, stick to white wine, kirsch (a cherry brandy), or an herbal tisane. According to Swiss lore, drinking water, juice, or beer with fondue will cause the melted cheese to form a giant ball in your stomach, leading to indigestion. While this may not be scientifically accurate, it's best to follow local customs to avoid standing out.

Enjoy the Crust

At the end of the meal, don't forget to scrape off and enjoy the crusty layer of cheese that forms at the bottom of the pot. This delicacy is called "la religieuse" or "the nun" because it resembles a nun's cap. It is considered a treat and should not be left uneaten.

Fondue Faux Pas

There are a few things to avoid when eating fondue. Firstly, don't dip your bread too forcefully, as you may end up dropping it into the pot, which could result in playful punishments. Secondly, don't drink carbonated or chilled beverages with your fondue, as the Swiss believe it affects digestion. Finally, if you are feeling unwell, it's best to avoid fondue and opt for something else, as sharing a communal pot while sick is not advisable.

The different types of fondue

Fondue is a Swiss dish that consists of a blend of cheeses, wine, and seasoning, although there are many variations, such as using beer rather than wine. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich. The word "fondue" comes from the French verb "fondre", which means "to melt".

Since the 1950s, the term "fondue" has been generalized to other dishes in which food is dipped into a communal pot of liquid kept hot in a fondue pot. Here are some of the different types of fondue:

Cheese Fondue

One of the most popular types of fondue, cheese fondue is typically made with a blend of melted cheeses, wine or beer, and seasoning. Swiss cheese fondue is the most traditional type, made by melting Swiss cheese with white wine, garlic, and a touch of kirsch (a clear, cherry-flavoured brandy). Diners use long-stemmed forks to dip pieces of bread and condiments into the melted cheese.

Oil or Broth Fondue

Also called Bourguignon fondue, this type of fondue uses hot oil to cook meats, vegetables, and seafood. Broth fondue, also known as Chinese fondue, uses beef broth or any other type of broth to cook food, infusing it with flavour. Both types of fondue are perfect for cooking raw meats and vegetables, and the cooked foods are often served with dipping sauces on the side.

Chocolate Fondue

Chocolate fondue is made of melted chocolate, sometimes with cooking cream to liquefy the mixture. Popular foods to dip into chocolate fondue include fruit, pastry, pretzels, marshmallows, and cake.

The history of fondue

Fondue, from the French "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in Switzerland in the 18th century. It was a way for farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the winter months. By melting leftover cheese and dipping stale bread into it, they could soften the bread and make it more palatable. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" ('to cook cheese with wine'). It calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it.

The first written recipes for fondue appear in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium, but they call for Gruyère, a Swiss cheese. Fondue was also mentioned in Homer's Iliad, dating back to around 800-725 BC, where it was described as a mixture of goat's cheese, wine and flour.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) promoted fondue as Switzerland's national dish to increase cheese consumption. After World War II, the Swiss Cheese Union continued its campaign, sending fondue sets to military regiments and event organisers across Switzerland. Fondue became a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

Fondue was introduced to America at the 1964 New York World's Fair, when it was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant. It became popular in the US in the 1960s and 1970s, along with other foods made in chafing dishes.

Over time, the term "fondue" has been generalised to refer to other dishes where food is dipped into a communal pot of hot liquid. This includes chocolate fondue, where fruit or pastry is dipped into melted chocolate, and fondue bourguignonne, where pieces of meat is cooked in hot oil or broth.

Fondue is now enjoyed worldwide, with different regions using a variety of cheeses, such as Vacherin, Appenzeller, and Sbrinz in Switzerland; Comté, Beaufort and Reblochon in France; and Fontina in Italy.

Frequently asked questions