Fondue's Popularity In The Us: A Cultural History

Fondue is a Swiss dish that originated in the 18th century as a way to use stale bread and aged cheese during the winter months when fresh food was scarce. The introduction of fondue to the US occurred in 1939 or 1964 at the Swiss Pavilion of the World's Fair in New York, with the latter date being when it became better known in America.

The Swiss Cheese Union's role in popularising fondue

The Swiss Cheese Union, or Schweizer Käseunion AG, was a cartel of cheese makers that ruled the Swiss economy for 80 years, from 1914 until its disbandment in 1999. The union was formed after the First World War when cheese makers decided to form an agreement among competitors not to compete. It set the price of milk, limited production, and restricted the types of cheeses Swiss producers could make, supporting only seven varieties of cheese.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union led intensive campaigns to promote cheese consumption, as cheese production had exceeded consumption. They settled on promoting fondue, a dish that was until then only known in the French-speaking part of Switzerland and some other regions. They marketed fondue as an Alpine specialty steeped in tradition, using iconography known around the world to promote the dish. They also invoked Heidi, whose stories had been translated into many languages, to emphasise the wholesomeness of the Swiss dish. Posters showcasing rain or snow as “fondue weather” reinforced the notion that fondue delivers a feeling of warmth.

The Swiss Cheese Union's marketing campaigns were so successful that fondue became the Swiss national dish in 1930. Fondue's popularity continued to grow in the decades that followed, and in the 1950s, free fondue tastings were held to introduce the dish to the German-speaking part of the country. The Swiss military also contributed to popularising the dish, with many remembering the FIGUGEGL advertisement ('Fondue isch guet und git e gueti Luune'), which encouraged people to eat melted cheese and also gave a language to a newly discovered culinary tradition.

The introduction of fondue to the US at the 1964 World's Fair

The 1964 World's Fair in New York was the first time Americans came into contact with fondue and Swiss culture, sparking a fondue craze across the country. The fair, also known as the 1964-1965 New York World's Fair, was an international exposition held at Flushing Meadows–Corona Park in Queens, New York City. It featured exhibitions, performances, films, art, and food presented by 80 nations, 24 US states, and nearly 350 American companies.

The idea for the fair was conceived by a group of businessmen, including lawyer Robert Kopple, in the late 1950s. The New York World's Fair 1964 Corporation (WFC) was formed in 1959, and construction began in late 1960. The fair ran for two six-month seasons: April 22 to October 18, 1964, and April 21 to October 17, 1965.

The Swiss exhibit at the fair introduced Americans to fondue, a dish that originated as a peasant meal in the Swiss canton of Valais. The Swiss Cheese Union had declared fondue the national dish of Switzerland in 1930 as part of a campaign to increase cheese consumption. At the World's Fair, Americans not only discovered the joys of dipping bread into a pot of melted cheese but also learned about other aspects of Swiss culture.

While the popularity of fondue has waxed and waned over the years, it remains a beloved dish for many, evoking a sense of warmth and camaraderie. The 1964 World's Fair played a pivotal role in bringing this Swiss delicacy to American tables, showcasing the power of cultural exchange and the enduring appeal of comfort food.

How fondue became a dinner party staple in the US

Fondue, derived from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in Switzerland in the 18th century. It was a peasant dish in the canton of Valais, a French canton known for its wine, cheese, and mountains. It was a way for farm families with limited access to fresh food during the winter months to use aged cheeses and stale bread. By dipping the bread into heated cheese mixed with wine, garlic, and herbs, the bread would soften and become more palatable. This communal style of cooking and eating by the fire became a Swiss winter tradition.

The first written recipes for fondue appeared in 18th-century cookbooks from France and Belgium, which featured Gruyère, a Swiss cheese. In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union, a cartel of cheese makers, launched a campaign to promote fondue as the national dish of Switzerland to increase cheese consumption. After World War II, with the end of rationing, the Swiss Cheese Union resumed its campaign, associating fondue with Swiss unity and national identity.

Fondue was introduced to the United States in 1939 and 1964 at the Swiss Pavilion of the World's Fair in New York. Konrad Egli, a chef at the Chalet Suisse restaurant in New York, played a pivotal role in popularizing fondue in the US. He introduced not only cheese fondue but also meat fondue, known as fondue bourguignonne, and, in the 1960s, the now-famous chocolate fondue. Chocolate fondue was a collaboration between Konrad Egli and Toblerone, who sought to sell chocolate in the US. The combination of melted heavy cream and Toblerone, served with bits of cake and fruit, became an instant hit.

The 1964 World's Fair marked a significant turning point, sparking a fondue fad across the country. Home fondue sets gained immense popularity, and fondue quickly became a staple at dinner parties in the US. While the craze has since faded, fondue remains a beloved comfort food, perfect for sharing with friends and family during chilly winter gatherings.

The origins of chocolate fondue

While the exact origin of chocolate fondue is not known, multiple individuals and groups have been credited with its creation. One theory credits Chef Konrad Elgi, a Swiss restaurateur and owner of New York's Chalet Swiss restaurant, who in 1952 created the bourguignon variation of fondue (beef cubes cooked in hot oil) and subsequently developed the chocolate variation as a dessert fondue in 1964. Another theory credits the Madison Avenue marketing efforts on behalf of Toblerone Swiss Chocolate in the 1950s. Some even suggest that the Mayans could claim credit for inventing chocolate fondue, as they were known to serve chocolate in thick, dense drinks over 2,500 years ago.

Chocolate fondue is a simple yet versatile dessert, with a basic recipe that includes milk chocolate, heavy cream, and brandy or other liqueurs. The chocolate is melted and blended with the cream and brandy, creating a smooth and velvety mixture that is then served with a variety of dipping items such as fruit, cake, cookies, pretzels, and marshmallows. The communal nature of sharing a chocolate fondue makes it an excellent choice for hosting parties, and it has become a beloved dessert around the world.

The history of fondue as a peasant dish

Fondue, derived from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated as a peasant dish in the Swiss canton of Valais, a French canton known for its wine, cheese, and mountains. It first appeared in cookbooks as early as the late 17th century, primarily as a way for peasants to use winter ingredients as they aged—cheese, wine, and bread.

The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "to cook cheese with wine", comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich. It calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it. However, the name "cheese fondue" originally referred to a dish composed of eggs and cheese, similar to scrambled eggs with cheese or a cheese souffle. The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue under that name, with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published in 1875 and was presented as a Swiss national dish.

A simpler version of the dish, originating among the peasants of the Swiss Alpine region in the early 1800s, was primarily an attempt to make the most of hardened cheese and stale bread. By dipping the bread in the melted cheese, the peasants were able to soften the stale bread and create a hearty meal. In Alpine farm villages, bread was only baked occasionally, so whatever bread was available was usually stale.

Despite its modern associations with rustic mountain life, the dish was originally consumed by wealthy town-dwellers in the lowlands of western, French-speaking Switzerland. Rich cheeses like Gruyere were valuable export items that peasants could not afford to eat. It was only in the second half of the 19th century that the modern style of cheese fondue was created, possibly inspired by the peasant version.

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