The Ancient History Of Cheese Fondue

Cheese fondue is a Swiss staple and a classic dish that involves dipping various foods into a pot of gooey, melted cheese. The origins of fondue are shrouded in mystery, but it is believed to have originated in Switzerland in the 18th century as a way for farm families to make use of limited resources during the winter months. The earliest known recipe for modern fondue dates back to 1699 and was referred to as Käss mit Wein zu kochen, which translates to to cook cheese with wine.

The origins of cheese fondue are disputed

The first written recipes for fondue appear in 18th-century cookbooks published in France and Belgium. However, they call for Gruyère, a Swiss cheese, so the Swiss rightfully deserved credit as the originators of fondue. The oldest surviving fondue recipe is found in a 1699 book from Zurich, which describes cooking cheese with wine. In the late 17th century, a Swiss cookbook, Kochbuch der Anna Margaretha Gessner, also makes note of cooking cheese with wine. Fondue became the official traditional Swiss dish in the 19th century.

In France, fondue makes its appearance in the 17th century in François Pierre de la Varenne's influential cookbook, The French Cook. De la Varenne, chef to the Marquis d’Uxelles, described a recipe using melted cheese and bread, which he called a "ramekin of cheese". In 1825, famous foodie Jean Anthelme Brillat‑Savarin spoke of fondue and provided a recipe in his book The Physiology of Taste: Or Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy.

The Swiss claim that fondue was created by Alpine farmers who would cook up wine, garlic, and herbs with cheese as a way to use up leftovers during the winter months when fresh food was unavailable. However, others say that peasants in the Swiss mountains created the dish to make use of leftover bread and cheese that had gone bad. By melting the old cheese in a communal fondue pot and dipping the stale bread into it, they created a delicious meal.

While the exact roots of modern cheese fondue are a bit hazy, blurred somewhere along the French-Swiss border, and between Alpine farmers and the wealthy classes, the association with Switzerland was cemented by the Swiss Cheese Union in the 1930s. The Union, also known as the "cheese mafia", aggressively marketed fondue as a Swiss national dish to increase cheese consumption and promote Swiss unity. They created pseudo-regional recipes as part of the "spiritual defence of Switzerland", sending fondue sets to the military and event organisers across the country.

It may have originated in Switzerland or France

The origins of cheese fondue are steeped in mystery, with several different stories and versions existing. However, it is widely believed that the dish may have originated in Switzerland or France.

In Switzerland, the earliest surviving fondue recipe is found in a 1699 book from Zurich, titled "Kochbuch der Anna Margaretha Gessner" in German, and "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "Let's cook cheese with wine" in English. This recipe describes cooking cheese with wine, which aligns with the traditional Swiss preparation of fondue. The Swiss also have a legend that attributes the creation of fondue to peasants in the Swiss mountains, who combined leftover bread and cheese during the colder months when fresh produce was scarce. This legend highlights the practicality of fondue, transforming stale bread and cheese into a delicious and hearty meal.

Switzerland's national dish, officially declared as such in the 1930s by the Swiss Cheese Union, is a combination of Gruyère and Fribourg-style Vacherin (cow's milk) cheeses, known as "moitié-moitié" or "half-and-half". The Swiss take their fondue very seriously, with specific pots called "caquelons" and long forks for dipping. It is considered a winter meal, often paired with hot tea or cold white wine.

France also has a strong claim to the origins of fondue. In the 17th century, the influential French cookbook "The French Cook" by François Pierre de la Varenne included a recipe for "Ramekin of cheese," which involved melting cheese and dipping bread. Additionally, in 1825, the famous French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin mentioned fondue and provided a recipe in his book "The Physiology of Taste: Or Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy."

While the exact origins of cheese fondue remain uncertain, it is clear that both Switzerland and France have played a significant role in its development and popularization. Fondue has become a beloved dish worldwide, offering a delightful combination of melted cheese, bread, and various flavourful ingredients, bringing people together for a communal dining experience.

Fondue was popularised as a Swiss national dish in the 1930s

Fondue, from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", has its origins in the 18th century when Swiss farm families would use remaining cheese, stale bread, and wine to create a hearty meal during the winter months. The first written recipes for fondue, however, date back to the 18th century in cookbooks from France and Belgium, which interestingly, call for Gruyère, a Swiss cheese.

In the 1930s, the Swiss Cheese Union (Schweizerische Käseunion) launched a campaign to increase cheese consumption in Switzerland, and it was during this time that fondue was popularized as the Swiss national dish. The Swiss Cheese Union promoted fondue as a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity, even including it in Swiss military cookbooks. Their marketing campaign featured catchy slogans such as "La fondue crée la bonne humeur" ("Fondue creates a good mood") and "Fondue isch guet und git e gueti Luune" ("Fondue is good and creates a good mood"). Fondue sets were sent to military regiments and event organizers across the country, ensuring that Swiss cheese was consumed widely.

The Swiss Cheese Union's efforts were so successful that fondue became deeply ingrained in Swiss culture and cuisine. To this day, it is considered Switzerland's national dish and is enjoyed by locals and tourists alike, especially during the winter months. The Swiss take their fondue very seriously, with traditional customs and etiquette surrounding the dish. For example, it is considered bad form to lose your bread in the pot, and the Swiss will jokingly assign a penalty, such as washing the dishes, to the offender.

While the exact origins of fondue may be disputed, with some claiming it originated in Switzerland and others in France, what is clear is that it has become an iconic part of Swiss culture and gastronomy. The Swiss Cheese Union's campaign in the 1930s played a pivotal role in popularizing fondue as the Swiss national dish, and their efforts continue to resonate today, with fondue being enjoyed not only in Switzerland but also worldwide.

The Swiss Cheese Union played a key role in popularising fondue

The Swiss Cheese Union was a cartel of Swiss cheese makers that ruled the Swiss economy for 80 years. It was founded in 1914, after the First World War, when Europe's consumption levels plummeted and Swiss cheese started piling up. The union was formed to prevent cheese makers from slashing prices to clear excess stock.

The union fixed the price of milk, limited production, and restricted the kinds of cheeses that could be made in Switzerland. They pushed the production of Emmental, the cheese with the little holes. However, they wanted to do more than control the supply of cheese—they wanted to boost demand.

The Swiss Cheese Union's solution was to market fondue, a dish that calls for large amounts of cheese. They launched aggressive ad campaigns throughout the 1970s, backed by the Swiss government, featuring good-looking Swiss men and women partying over pots of hot cheese. Fondue became a huge hit in Switzerland and beyond.

The Swiss Cheese Union also played a key role in organising cheese exports and the nationwide provision of cheese under uniform conditions. They promoted cheese dishes like fondue, which until then was virtually unknown outside of western Switzerland and the Savoy region of France. After the Second World War, the union worked to turn fondue into a "branded product" with a national slant. The fact that fondue is relatively easy to prepare and was often made by men, who had more leisure time, contributed to its popularity. The social aspect of eating fondue, with guests often invited to share the meal, also helped to popularise it.

Fondue was introduced to America at the 1964 New York World's Fair

Fondue, derived from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", has its origins in 18th-century Switzerland. It was initially a means for farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the cold winter months. By melting leftover cheese and dipping stale bread into it, they created a hearty and tasty meal.

Over time, fondue became a Swiss winter tradition, enjoyed by people from all walks of life. The Swiss Cheese Union played a pivotal role in popularising fondue as Switzerland's national dish in the 1930s, with an aggressive marketing campaign that included distributing fondue sets to the military and event organisers. This campaign continued after World War II, with fondue sets becoming a symbol of Swiss unity and national identity.

However, fondue remained unknown in America, the largest cheese market in the world, until 1964. That year, at the New York World's Fair, fondue was featured at the Swiss Pavilion's Alpine restaurant. This introduction sparked America's love for fondue, eventually leading to the creation of the world's only fondue restaurant chain, 'The Melting Pot'.

The New York World's Fair played a significant role in bringing the delights of fondue to American shores, and it is safe to say that this Swiss delicacy has since become a popular dish worldwide.

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