Replacing The Pots: A Guide To Revitalizing Your T.Flight Hotas 4

The Thrustmaster T Flight Hotas 4 is a joystick controller used for specific flight simulation games. Some users have reported issues with the potentiometers in the controller, such as erratic behaviour and drift. While cleaning the potentiometers can help, others have found it necessary to replace them entirely. This process can be challenging, as it requires finding exact replacement parts and having the necessary tools and skills for soldering.

Disassembling the joystick

To begin disassembling the joystick, make sure the controller is disconnected from the power source. Remove the four 15 mm J1 JIS head screws from the exterior of the joystick.

Now, turn the controller upside down and remove the 20 mm, six 12 mm, and two 6 mm J1 JIS head screws from the bottom panel. Next, insert an opening tool or your finger into the divet located beneath the USB port and gently pull the panel away from the controller.

For the next step, place masking tape between the button panel and the top of the right half of the handle to protect the wires. Separate the handle at the bottom and remove the centre cover between the two halves. Set the cover aside. While holding the right half of the handle against the white centre post, gently remove the left half of the handle with the trigger assembly.

The right half of the handle should now be free to slide off the square sensor body at the top of the white centre post. Lay it down next to the post, being careful not to stress the wires. Finally, lift the sensor body straight up and clear of the white centre post. Note the orientation of the D-flat on the sensor "knob", which should face away from the solder tabs and towards the right half of the handle.

Cleaning the potentiometer

To clean the potentiometer of your T.Flight Hotas 4, you will need to open up the joystick controller. Remove all the screws from the base of the stick and locate the white box in the middle, which houses the stick gimble. Inside, you will see two potentiometers, one for roll and one for pitch.

Before proceeding with cleaning, ensure that you have a suitable cleaner. Electrical contact cleaner is recommended, preferably with some silicon and safe for use on plastic. Do not use lubricants such as WD-40, as these will leave a film on the potentiometer.

Once you have the right cleaner, remove the four screws from the white gimble box. You do not need to remove it completely, just enough to access the potentiometers. Remove the potentiometers one at a time to avoid confusion when putting them back. Spray the cleaner onto the black side of the potentiometer, closest to where the wires are. Then, dry the potentiometers with canned air or a hairdryer.

After cleaning, you can put everything back together.

Some alternative cleaning methods include:

• Soaking the potentiometer in isopropyl alcohol and then turning the wiper back and forth
• Using dielectric grease after cleaning
• Dissembling the potentiometer and cleaning the resistive trail with a Q-tip and solvent

Soldering wires

To replace the potentiometers in the Thrustmaster T-Flight HOTAS 4, you will need to be able to solder wires. Here is a step-by-step guide to soldering wires:

Preparing to Solder

Firstly, make sure you are working in a well-ventilated area. Fumes from the soldering iron can be harmful, so consider using a fume extractor, or at least work in an area where these fumes can escape. It is also important to wear protective eyewear to shield your eyes from any accidental splashes of hot solder.

Preparing the Wires

Strip away about half an inch of the plastic coating from the wires with a wire stripper. Be careful not to remove too much or too little of the coating. Too little will hinder the soldering process, while too much will expose the copper wire, requiring more heat-shrink tubing.

Adding Heat Shrink Tubing

Find the smallest diameter tubing that will fit over the plastic-coated wire. The tubing should cover the splice, plus another half-inch on each end. Slip the tubing onto the wire and push it down about a foot for now.

Preparing the Splice

Gently twist the individual strands of wire together, interlocking the strands. Be careful not to twist the wires too tightly, as this will prevent the solder from penetrating. The joint should be smaller in diameter than the heat-shrink tubing. Position the wires so that they are elevated over the work surface, as wires that lay flat may get stuck to the surface by the solder.

Applying Rosin Flux

Rub a small amount of rosin flux paste on the joined wires so that all of the copper is covered. Flux is a synthetic resin or pine tar resin that helps draw the solder into the meshed wire strands for a cleaner, stronger bond and reduces oxidation.

Preparing the Soldering Iron

Plug in and turn on the soldering iron. Unroll about six inches of solder so that the end is exposed and ready to use. As the soldering iron heats up, rub the tip across a wet sponge to remove any previous oxidation.

Soldering the Wires

Touch the heated tip of the soldering iron to the wire joint and hold it firmly in place for a few seconds to heat up the wire. Then, touch the exposed end of the solder lightly to the wire joint. The heat should cause the solder to instantly melt and draw into the meshed strands.

Sealing the Connection

After the solder has fully cooled, slip the heat-shrink tubing over the joint and run a heat gun over the tubing until it constricts completely. You can also use a lighter, but this may not shrink the tubing as evenly. Finally, wipe off any excess flux with a paper towel.

Locating replacement parts

One possible solution is to clean the existing potentiometers with an electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic and preferably includes silicon. This can help improve the performance of the controller, although it may not be a long-lasting solution.

If cleaning does not work, or if you prefer a more permanent fix, you can attempt to replace the potentiometers. However, finding exact replacement parts can be difficult due to their small size and non-standard specifications. You may need to search for compatible parts that match the rotational limits and resistance values of the original potentiometers.

Online communities and forums, such as Reddit and iFixit, can be valuable resources for locating replacement parts. For example, in a discussion on the r/HotasDIY subreddit, a user provided a link to a specific potentiometer on the Mouser Electronics website, which successfully resolved another user's issue with their Thrustmaster T. Flight HOTAS 4.

Additionally, iFixit users have suggested Radwell as a possible source for replacement pots for the TM HOTAS. While these parts may not be a perfect match, they could serve as a starting point for further investigation.

It is important to note that replacing the potentiometers requires soldering skills and tools, as well as a careful approach to avoid damaging the controller.

Reassembling the joystick

To reassemble the joystick, follow these steps:

Handle Reassembly

Fit the right handle back onto the white central post. Wipe away any excess grease. Ensure that the wires are tucked into the handle between the screw bosses, with the three wires to the sensor looped so that rotation of the handle does not tug on the wires. Position the centre cover in place, using masking tape to hold it in place if needed. Slide the left handle in from the left until the base mates up tight around the white centre post and the top gives an audible click as it snaps into place.

Reinstall the Screws

Reinstall the screws in reverse order. First, the four 10mm J1 JIS head screws. Then, the two 6mm J1 JIS head screws, the six 12mm J1 JIS head screws, and finally, the 20mm J1 JIS head screw.

Final Steps

Reattach the bottom panel by sliding it back into place. Reattach the four 15mm J1 JIS head screws from the exterior of the joystick. Reconnect the controller to the power source. Your joystick should now be fully reassembled and ready to use.

Frequently asked questions