The Melty History Of Fondue: A Swiss Delicacy's Origin Story

Fondue, the Swiss national dish, originated in 18th-century Switzerland as a means for farm families to stretch their limited resources during the winter months. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich, under the name Käss mit Wein zu kochen or to cook cheese with wine. The Swiss Cheese Union popularised fondue in the 1930s as a way of increasing cheese consumption, and it was introduced to America at the 1964 New York World's Fair.

The Swiss Cheese Union's 1930s campaign to popularise fondue

Fondue, from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", is a Swiss dish that typically consists of melted cheese and wine served in a communal pot. It is eaten by dipping bread, vegetables, or other snacks into the cheese using long-stemmed forks. The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zurich. However, the Swiss Cheese Union's (Schweizerische Käseunion) campaign in the 1930s played a crucial role in popularising fondue and establishing it as a Swiss national dish.

The Swiss Cheese Union was a powerful cartel that controlled Switzerland's cheese industry from 1914 to 1999. They aimed to maintain the prosperity of the cheese business by fixing milk prices, limiting production, and restricting cheese varieties. After World War I, they faced a challenge due to decreasing consumption in Europe and excess cheese production in Switzerland. To address this, they needed to boost demand and increase cheese consumption within Switzerland.

The 1930s campaign by the Swiss Cheese Union focused on promoting fondue as a Swiss national dish and a symbol of Swiss unity and identity. They created pseudo-regional recipes and fabricated an infectious enthusiasm for fondue in their marketing materials. The union used well-known iconography, such as Heidi, to emphasise the authenticity of the dish. They also associated fondue with warmth and comfort, showcasing rain or snow as "fondue weather". Their campaigns provided recipes and tips for preparing fondue for various group sizes, encouraging conspicuous consumption.

The Swiss Cheese Union's efforts were successful, and fondue became immensely popular in Switzerland and later abroad. It transformed from a regional dish to a national dish, and fondue is now considered a symbol of Swiss unity. The union's campaign played a significant role in increasing cheese consumption and reshaping the Swiss culinary landscape, making fondue a beloved and iconic dish worldwide.

The origin of the word 'fondue'

The word "fondue" is the feminine passive past participle of the French verb "fondre", which means "to melt". The word is derived from the Latin "fundo", which translates to "I melt, etc." and is used as a noun. The first recorded use of the word "fondue" in French was in 1735, in Vincent La Chapelle's "Cuisinier moderne", and the first recorded use of the word in English was in 1878. The German form of the word is borrowed from the French as a loanword.

The word "fondue" is also related to the Latin "fundere" (past participle fusus), which means "to melt, cast, or pour out". This, in turn, comes from the Proto-Indo-European root "*gheu-" ("to pour"). The word "fondue" is also related to a number of other words in various languages, including "foundry", "fuse", "fusion", "futile", "gust" (meaning "sudden squall of wind"), "infuse", "perfuse", "refuse", and "transfuse".

The word "fondue" is used to describe a dish consisting of melted cheese combined with wine, cognac, or brandy, which is served communally from a ceramic pot and eaten by dipping chunks of bread into the cheese using long-stemmed forks. This dish is thought to have originated in Switzerland as a way to use hardened cheese and stale bread during the winter months. The traditional cheeses used in fondue are Swiss cheeses, mainly Emmental and Gruyère.

The first written recipes for fondue

The first recipe for a dish we’d call cheese fondue (hard cheese melted with wine, used for dipping bread) appeared at the very end of the 17th century. This recipe was published in a 1699 book from Zurich, under the name "Käss mit Wein zu kochen" or "to cook cheese with wine". It calls for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it.

The name "cheese fondue", however, referred to a dish composed of eggs and cheese until the late 19th century. This version of the dish was something between scrambled eggs with cheese and a cheese soufflé. Variations included cream ("à la genevoise") and truffles ("à la piémontaise") in addition to eggs, as well as what is now known as "raclette" ("fondue valaisanne").

The first known recipe for the modern cheese fondue under the name "fondue", with cheese and wine but no eggs, was published in 1875. It was already presented as a Swiss national dish. Despite its modern associations with rustic mountain life, it was a town-dweller's dish from the lowlands of western, French-speaking, Switzerland. Rich cheese like Gruyère was a valuable export item which peasants could not afford to eat.

How to make fondue

Fondue, which comes from the French word "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in 18th-century Switzerland. It was a dish created by farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the winter months. The traditional Swiss cheeses used in fondue are mainly Emmental and Gruyère, but other good choices include Gouda, Fontina, and Vacherin Fribourgeois.

Ingredients:

• Good-quality cheese (Gruyère, Emmental, and Appenzeller are traditional)
• White wine (dry and high-acid such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, or an unoaked Chardonnay)
• Cornstarch or flour
• Bread (French bread or baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes)
• Other dippers (such as apples, vegetables, meat, or potatoes)
• Garlic (optional)
• Lemon juice (optional)
• Mustard (optional)
• Spices (optional)

Instructions:

• Grate the cheese. Grating the cheese will help it melt faster and more evenly, resulting in a smoother fondue.
• Toss the cheese with cornstarch or flour. This will help thicken the fondue and prevent the cheese from clumping.
• Bring the wine to a simmer in a fondue pot or large heavy saucepan. If using garlic, rub the inside of the pot with a cut clove of garlic before adding the wine.
• Add the cheese to the simmering wine a little at a time, stirring well between each addition to ensure a smooth fondue.
• Once the cheese is melted, add any desired seasonings, such as lemon juice, mustard, or spices.
• Serve with an assortment of bite-sized dipping foods, such as bread, apples, vegetables, meat, or potatoes.

Tips:

• If the fondue becomes too thick, add a little more wine to thin it out.
• To prevent the cheese from clumping, add the cheese slowly and stir constantly while melting.
• For extra flavour, stir in a tablespoon of fortified wine or liqueur, such as brandy or Kirsch (a cherry brandy).
• If making fondue in advance, it can be refrigerated for up to 3 days and reheated gently over a double boiler, adding additional wine as needed.

The different styles of fondue

Fondue, derived from the French verb "fondre", meaning "to melt", originated in Switzerland in the 18th century. It was a way for farm families to make the most of their limited resources during the winter months. Over the years, the term has been used for more than one dish, similar in style but not ingredients.

Swiss-Style Fondue

The Swiss-style fondue typically consists of Gruyere cheese, often mixed with other Swiss cheeses like Emmental, Sbrinz, Appenzeller or Fribourg Vacherin. It is melted in a caquelon, sometimes with cornstarch or flour, to achieve a smooth texture. Swiss-style fondue is traditionally flavoured with garlic, white wine, and kirsch (Swiss cherry brandy), but other seasonings like herbs, peppers, chillies, and mushrooms are also used. There are several regional varieties of Swiss-style fondue, including:

• Fondue Vaudoise, made with only Gruyere cheese.
• Fondue Neuchâteloise, a mix of Gruyère and Emmental.
• Fondue Innerschweiz, a combination of Gruyere, Emmental, and Sbrinz.
• Fondue Fribourgeoise, which is made without Gruyere cheese or wine, instead using Fribourg vacherin melted in water over low heat.
• Fondue Appenzellerland, which swaps out Gruyere for Appenzeller cheese.

Italian-Style Fondue

The Italian-style fondue, or Fonduta alla Valdostana, is similar to the early versions of the dish that were made with eggs. It is made with Fontina cheese as the main ingredient, combined with milk, flour, and egg yolks. It has a sweeter and milder flavour and a richer, creamier texture. Italian-style fondue is often served as a sauce for polenta, pasta, and risotto, rather than just a dip.

Broth Fondue (Fondue Chinoise)

Broth fondue, also known as Fondue Chinoise, is a style of fondue that involves dipping pieces of meat and vegetables into a hot broth. This style of fondue is similar to Chinese hot pot, Japanese Shabu-Shabu, and Thai Suki. In Switzerland, broth fondue is a popular Christmas dish, often served with various sauces and pickles.

Oil Fondue (Fondue Bourguignonne)

Oil fondue, or Fondue Bourguignonne, is a style of fondue that originated in New York in 1956 and was created by Swiss restaurateur Konrad Egli. It involves dipping pieces of meat into hot oil, rather than cheese or broth. Various dipping sauces are served on the side, such as Béarnaise, aioli, and horseradish sauce.

Wine Fondue (Fondue Vigneronne)

Wine fondue, or Fondue Vigneronne, is a variation of broth fondue that uses wine as the dipping liquid. It is heavily spiced with ingredients like salt, pepper, chilli, garlic, onion, coriander, and cinnamon. Meats and vegetables cooked in wine fondue are often served with mustard or bearnaise sauce.

Chocolate Fondue

Chocolate fondue is another variation that was invented by Konrad Egli in the mid-1960s as part of a promotion for Toblerone chocolate. It typically consists of a pot of melted chocolate, into which pieces of fruit, pastries, pretzels, marshmallows, or even cake, are dipped.

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