Tillie Doyle
Installing a toilet pan and cistern may seem daunting, but it can be a straightforward and rewarding DIY project with the right tools, materials, and guidance. Before you begin, ensure you have purchased a toilet that fits the space by measuring the rough-in distance from the wall to the centre of the floor drain. If you are replacing only the pan or the cistern, check that the new component is compatible with the old one. Once you have the right toilet, follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembly and installation, ensuring the toilet is level and securely attached to the water supply line.
Characteristics and Values Table for Installing a Toilet Pan & Cistern
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Safety Equipment | Knee pads |
| Materials | Toilet, cistern, bolts, nuts, washers, spanner, silicone lubricant, drill, screws, caps, flexi pipe, cold water supply, toilet inlet valve, toilet lid, flush mechanism |
| First Step | Install all cistern components |
| Second Step | Place the cistern on top of the pan |
| Third Step | Install the pan connector into the soil pipe |
| Fourth Step | Put the toilet into place |
| Fifth Step | Screw the cistern into place |
| Sixth Step | Install the flexi pipe |
| Seventh Step | Install the toilet lid |
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What You'll Learn
Measure the rough-in size/distance
Measuring the rough-in size is a crucial step in the installation process. The rough-in size of a toilet is the distance between the centre of the toilet's drainpipe (or toilet flange) and the back wall behind it. This measurement ensures that your replacement toilet fits correctly, with enough space between the drainpipe and the wall for the toilet's tank.
To measure the rough-in size, first, locate the drainpipe or toilet flange opening on the floor. This will look like a round hole with a white plastic lining. Then, take a measuring tape and measure the distance from the bare wall (excluding any baseboards or mouldings) to the centre of the toilet flange opening. This measurement is your toilet's rough-in size. Ensure you measure straight back from the wall, not at an angle, for accuracy.
The standard rough-in size is 12 inches, but it can vary depending on the structure and layout of the house. Smaller bathrooms usually have a toilet rough-in size of 10 inches, while larger bathrooms may have a 14-inch rough-in. It is essential to measure the rough-in size accurately before purchasing a new toilet, as toilets are not one-size-fits-all, and many companies do not allow returns.
If you are measuring from a stud wall, add the thickness of your wall to the measurement. It is also important to note that the height of the toilet should be measured to ensure a proper fit and comfort. The standard toilet height is 15 inches, but some toilets are as high as 18-19 inches.
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Remove the old toilet
Removing an old toilet can be done in a few simple steps. Firstly, make sure you have the right protective gear, cleaning products, and tools. This includes protective gloves and eyewear, an old blanket or rags, toilet cleaner, a sponge, a mop, a bucket, and a spanner. You should also wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from debris.
Once you have gathered your equipment, start by cleaning the floor and toilet pan with disinfectant and flush. Place a blanket or rags on the floor under the toilet to soak up any remaining water. Close the valve along the water supply line, flush to empty the cistern, and then remove the cistern lid. Now, disconnect the overflow pipe using a spanner.
Next, detach the water supply pipe from the cistern. If your new toilet is similar to the old one, you can reuse the existing water supply pipe. Otherwise, you will need to install a new one. Block the waste outlet with rags to prevent debris from falling into it when removing the mortar around the collar of the waste pipe. Use a club hammer and cold chisel for this step, and be sure to wear safety goggles.
Once the mortar is cleared away, unscrew the screws holding the pan to the floor. Disconnect the flush pipe joining the cistern to the pan by peeling back the cone connector. If your toilet is older, chip away at the old putty sealant or mortar with a chisel. Carefully pull the pan away from the waste pipe in the wall with sideways movements to loosen the joint. If the pan is cemented to the floor, use a cold chisel to drive it under the base to free it. If the pan does not come free, use a club hammer to break the pan outlet.
Finally, if mastic or putty was used for the waste outlet joint, chip this away from the metal waste pipe in the wall. Now you are ready to install your new toilet!
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Assemble the wax ring, bolts, and nuts
When assembling the wax ring, bolts, and nuts, there are a few different approaches you can take. One option is to place the wax ring directly on the underside of the toilet. However, others suggest that placing it on the flange will help keep it in place while you move the toilet.
If you choose to place the wax ring on the flange, ensure that the bolts are positioned to fit into the holes in the base of the toilet. Then, put a washer and nut on each bolt, but do not tighten them completely yet. Carefully place your new toilet on top of the flange, and push it firmly against the floor. Once the toilet is in the correct place, you can tighten the nuts.
If you choose to place the wax ring on the underside of the toilet, you can use a nut on the bolts to hold them in place while you wiggle the toilet into position. This will help to prevent the wax from smearing or cutting away.
It is important to note that you should avoid rocking the toilet as you place it on the wax ring. Instead, use a slight side-to-side twisting motion until the toilet bowl rests on the floor.
To prevent leaks, ensure that the toilet sits level and does not rock on the floor. You can confirm that the toilet is level by sitting on it and testing whether it rocks back and forth. If the toilet is not level, try unscrewing the nuts and repositioning the toilet, or place small coins under the base to make it even.
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Place and align the new toilet
Now that you've removed the old toilet and prepared the location, you're ready to place and align the new toilet. First, rest the new toilet bowl on its side on a padded surface to protect the floor and the toilet. Then, attach the replacement seal to the bottom of the bowl. Alternatively, place the seal in position on the flange before lowering the bowl into place.
Place the toilet bowl onto the flange, aligning the bolt holes in the base of the bowl with the bolts in the flange. You can hold the bowl by the inside rim instead of the outer edges to get a better grip and more control as you lower it. Gently press the wax ring, flat-side down, over the flange. Lift the toilet bowl over the flange, and align the holes in its base with the closet bolts.
Carefully lower the bowl onto the closet flange, applying even pressure to compress the wax ring. Place washers and nuts on the closet bolts and tighten them alternately until the bowl is secure. Be careful not to overtighten, as this can crack the porcelain or other fragile materials.
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Reattach the water supply line
Reattaching the water supply line is a crucial step in ensuring your toilet operates smoothly and efficiently. Here is a detailed guide on how to do it:
Prepare the Water Supply Line and Connections
Before reattaching the water supply line, it is essential to inspect the valve and inlet for any signs of damage or corrosion. If there is any visible wear and tear, consider replacing the parts. To prepare for reattachment, wrap Teflon tape or PTFE tape around the valve threads. This step will help create a secure and watertight seal.
Connect the Water Supply Line
Take one end of the new supply line and connect it to the shut-off valve. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection securely. Ensure that the water pipe remains secure during this process.
Attach the Line to the Toilet Tank
Connect the other end of the supply line to the inlet of the toilet tank. Again, use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection. Make sure that all fittings are nice and tight to prevent potential leaks.
Restore Water Flow and Check for Leaks
Once everything is connected, it's time to turn on the water supply slowly. Gradually turn the shut-off valve counterclockwise to let water flow back into the tank. As the tank fills, keep a close eye on both connections to ensure there are no leaks.
Flush the Toilet and Final Checks
After restoring the water flow, flush the toilet to ensure it functions correctly and fills up as expected. Inspect the toilet and the surrounding floor area for any signs of unexpected water or leaks. If you notice any issues, turn off the water supply, and recheck the connections. You may need to tighten the connections further or reapply Teflon tape.
Remember, it is important to regularly inspect your toilet water supply line every six months to ensure it remains in good condition. Check for leaks, wear and tear, and replace parts as necessary to maintain optimal performance and prevent future issues.
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Frequently asked questions
Before installing a new toilet, you should measure the rough-in size, which is the distance from the wall to the centre of the floor drain, to ensure that your new toilet will fit. You should also check that the design of the new component matches the old one to ensure efficient flushing and water conservation.
First, locate the shutoff valve near the base of the toilet and turn it clockwise to shut off the water supply. Flush the toilet to drain the water from the cistern and bowl, and get rid of any excess water with a mop or sponge. Then, unscrew the water supply line from the cistern and place a bucket underneath to catch any remaining water. Remove the caps covering the bolts at the base of the toilet and unscrew the nuts. If the bolts are rusted, you may need to use a hacksaw to cut them off. Rock the toilet gently to break the seal with the floor and lift it away.
Assemble the wax ring, bolts, and nuts onto the flange, following the manufacturer's instructions. Place the wax ring onto the flange and gently lower the toilet bowl onto it, aligning the bolts with the holes on the base. Apply gentle pressure to create a seal. Place washers and nuts onto the bolts and tighten them gradually, alternating sides to apply even pressure. Be careful not to over-tighten, as this could crack the porcelain.
